A trip through 'Little Osaka'

A trip through 'Little Osaka'

Si Racha, in Chon Buri, provides a Japanese experience within Thailand

TRAVEL

Signs with Japanese characters can be seen on any corner, at general post offices, mini-marts, bars and little restaurants. Red paper lanterns are hung in lines outside shops decorated in Japanese style. Mother and son walk on the footpath, and, until they come closer, their Japanese conversation in soft voices make me think I may be displaced.

J Park Si Racha Nihon Mura is now one of the most famous landmarks in Si Racha. Built under the theme of Japan's Edo era, the shopping complex offers the atmosphere of a Japanese mall, where you can find cuisine such as shabu, ramen and sushi as well as a Japanese-style supermarket.

I drive from Bangkok, expecting to enjoy the sea, but finally find myself in Little Osaka, as it's called by the Japanese. Actually, here is Si Racha, a lively district in Chon Buri.

Industrial growth and huge investments from Japanese companies in nearby areas are driving Si Racha to develop as another Japanese town. Japanese executives, engineers and other staff spend a long time working on industrial estates, causing rental houses and serviced apartments to mushroom for serving them. More Japanese families then move in, raising demand for schools and marketplaces.

It's roughly estimated that there are around 10,000 Japanese living in Sri Racha.

But Japanese influence is just another thing that adds change to Si Racha. Actually, the district has been changing over the last century.

A hundred years ago, Si Racha was just a small fishing village with abundant forests. The establishment of the Sri Maha Racha sawmill by important nobleman Chao Phraya Surasak Montri in 1900 made the community grow and become an important town of the east.

With high demand for wooden sleepers, the logging industry ran well. A number of elephants were used in transporting logs from the forest. Logs were gathered at Koh Loy, a small island that's now become a temple and a park, before being sent to Bangkok.

Though today the logging industry no longer exists, Si Racha has gradually developed with the booming of beach resorts like Bang Saen and Pattaya, like most towns in the east. However, what drives the town today is the Japanese influence.

"You have to know exact shops or exact places to go; otherwise, you'll see just those shops that welcome Japanese clients in particular," my brother Montri Jariyasombat, who has been in the town for over 10 years, explains. "Actually, there are places that maintain Si Racha's character, but you have to do some homework and make a visit before they're swept away by the winds of change."

He drives me to visit Sri Maha Racha Temple, well hidden behind high buildings next to a marketplace. After visiting Apollo Satay, an old restaurant serving one of the best pork satay in town, we get out of town to stroll along a vast green lawn by Bang Phra Reservoir.

Khao Khieo Open Zoo and Sriracha Tiger Zoo are also interesting if you have days to spend. Sea, zoo, golf courses, and city life, plus a short drive to bustling Bangkok -- these make Si Racha a nice place to stay.

Si Racha is also the gateway to Koh Sichang, a small island home to some 8,000 people. From the pier at Si Racha's Koh Loy, I get on a ferry to the island. The hired motor tricycle gets around on the winding narrow lanes that snake through communities, resorts and piers to the summer palace at the end of the lane.

Koh Sichang is home to a royal palace built by King Chulalongkorn in 1892. During its heyday, the palace boasted four mansions, 14 halls and a pavilion surrounded by ornamental gardens, ponds, walkways and a private beach. The main royal residence, Manthatratanarot Throne Hall, was a three-story-high octagonal teakwood mansion which sat by the beach near the Asadang Bridge.

In 1900, after Koh Sichang was invaded by the French, the main royal residence was relocated in the Dusit Palace in Bangkok -- where it remains today as the Vimanmek Mansion, the largest teakwood building in the world. The octagon stone base of the royal residence is still there.

I slowly roam the peaceful beach, passing beautiful buildings within the palace compound and gardens that have been lovingly maintained. Tourists love to linger here in peaceful moments before getting back to Si Racha for the busy life once again.

Si Racha is 117km from Bangkok, or around an hour's drive via Highway 7 or Highway 3.

Koh Sichang is around a 45-minute boat ride from Koh Loy's pier at Si Racha. Parking is available at the pier, but it is quite crowded. Boats leave every hour, 7am-8pm.

Hidden in the crowded downtown of Si Racha, Wat Si Maha Racha is one of two important Buddhist temples in town. The temple is called Wat Nai, or Inner temple, while the temple at Koh Loy, a small island offshore, is called Wat Nok or Outer temple. The temple of Dhammyut Order is supported by members of the royal family. It’s amazing to learn that the principle Buddha here is called Luang Poh Than Jai, or Buddha for wishes, and shares a tradition with the north of Thailand. The principal Buddha was found in the North when the railway from Bangkok to Chiang Mai was constructed a century ago, then relocated here.

The stone base of the royal residence remains by the beach on Koh Sichang. The island is a picturesque destination housing a beautiful summer palace. Restored mansions and a landscape garden make it a romantic place for tourists to linger, particularly at the bridge.

A Japanese lady makes candles in a workshop organised by a serviced-apartment operator. There is no formal number of Japanese people living in Si Racha. However, it is expected that the figure is close to 10,000. Do not be surprised if you roam the town and find a number of signs with Japanese characters or Japanese-style decorations, while finding it quite difficult to find Thai food.

Located in a shophouse right on Sukhumvit Road, Apollo Satay is an old satay shop well known among locals. It serves delicious pork satay with rich sauce and toast, for lunch only.

Si Racha’s chilli sauce is quite well known. Until now, Thais have called chilli sauce sriracha sauce. The story has it that a Si Racha merchant found a Myanmar guy who regularly bought fresh chilli, garlic, vinegar, sugar and other ingredients from his shop around 60 years ago. He learned later that all the ingredients from his shop were used for making chilli sauce, which was quite tasty. He got the recipe and developed it as his family business. Pictured is Koh Loy, a very old brand. Unlike other famous chilli-sauce brands of Si Racha, Koh Loy remains produced by hand, and is available in particular outlets throughout town. Si Racha people well know how to find it.

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