Bangkok Post - The world's window on Thailand

Ruling over the River of Kings

The royal barge procession is one of the world’s great events. We have created a guide to help you pick out each of the historic Thai vessels that will help bring the royal coronation ceremony of His Majesty King Maha Vajiralongkorn Phra Vajiraklaochaoyuhua to a close.

For Thais in all eras of history, boats have been a primary mode of transportation. There were boats that were used by commoners, but for the monarchy and royal family members, ruea luang — or royal fleets — were primarily used.

During wartime, ruea luang   were used for military activities. When in peace, the barges transported the king and royal family on religious or ceremonial occasions.

The royal barge procession along the Chao Phraya River on Dec 12 concludes the royal coronation ceremony of His Majesty King Maha Vajiralongkorn Phra Vajiraklaochaoyuhua which has been ongoing since May. Besides being a spectacular celebration of the monarchy, the centuries-old tradition is also an opportunity for the country to show the world the glory of Thailand’s traditional craftsmanship and culture. The entire procession features 52 vessels and 2,200 crew.

Here’s a guide to the vessels and oarsmen during the magnificent royal barge procession.

Suphannahong

Built: In the reign of King Rama V (108 years old)

Dimensions: L - 46.15m, B - 3.17m, D - 94cm

Built in 1911, the Suphannahong is believed to be the most majestic of all barges. The name Suphannahong, or golden hamsa, refers to the swan-like mystical steed of the Hindu god Brahma and has traditionally been reserved for the principal royal barge used by the king.

The original Suphannahong, the prototype of the one still in use today, was built in the reign of King Rama I. The vessel was in constant use as the principal barge, until it became too old to be repaired.

Its successor, the present Suphannahong, was built in the reign of King Rama V and completed in the next reign.

The head of the hamsa is carved with gilded lacquer, decorated with mirrored glass and a crystalline ball with tassels dangling from its mouth. A pavilion in which there is a throne for the king is placed in the middle of the barge.

The barge took part in many illustrious events including the coronations of King Rama VI and King Rama VIII as well as for the 150th anniversary of the foundation of Bangkok held during the reign of King Rama VII.

Anantanagaraj

Built: In the reign of King Rama VI (95 years old)

Dimensions: L - 44.85m, B - 2.58m, D - 87cm

The original barge was built in the reign of King Rama III and named Banlang Anantanagaraj, translated as the Throne of Ananta — king of the serpents. But the current Anantanagaraj was rebuilt in the reign of King Rama VI and launched in April 1914.

The most outstanding feature of the Anantanagaraj is the bow which is carved into a seven-headed naga, gilded lacquer and decorated with mirrored glass ornaments. The hull was painted green outside and red inside.

The Anantanagaraj is second in rank to the Suphannahong and is a testament to intricate craftsmanship. Set aside the seven-headed naga figurehead, the body of the serpent is equally marvellous, with a multitude of crafted small serpents densely woven into floral-looking vines.

Anekajatbhujonga

Built: In the reign of King Rama V (102 years old)

Dimensions: L - 45.67m, B - 2.91m, D - 91cm

The Anekajatbhujonga appears plain in the outline especially when compared to the other three royal barges. The barge has no figurehead, but stands out due to its simple yet graceful design.

The Anekajatbhujonga is therefore best appreciated up close. Still, this majestically-plain barge is covered with innumerable naga figures which are crafted into the bow. The hull is painted pink on the outside and red inside.

Narayana Song Suban

Built: In the reign of King Rama IX (23 years old)

Dimensions: L - 44.30m, B - 3.20m, D - 110cm

The construction of the Narayana Song Suban in the reign of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej The Great was commissioned by the Royal Thai Navy and the Department of Fine Arts to pay homage to His Majesty the King on the 50th anniversary of his accession to the throne.

The name was taken by King Rama IX himself from an earlier royal barge built during the reign of King Rama III called Mongkol Suban. It was modified to give it a more elegant look than in the reign of King Rama IV.

This new look featured an intricately carved wooden figurine of the Hindu deity Narayana mounted on top of the garuda. This was based on the ancient Brahmin myth saying the garuda serves as Narayana’s vehicle.

The construction of the Narayana Song Suban began in 1994. King Bhumibol presided over the keel-laying ceremony at the Royal Thai Navy Dockyard in September that year.

escortbarges

OARSMEN AND CREW(for the four main royal barges)

ESCORT CREW(for escort fleets)

Through peace, prosperity and war

The royal barge procession is believed among historians to date back to the Sukhothai era. But it wasn’t until the Ayutthaya period more than 600 years ago when details surrounding the tradition became clear as recorded historical evidence.

Around the middle of the 14th century, during the reign of King Boromatrailokanat of Ayutthaya, a boat race called the Asayucha ceremony was held in the 11th lunar month. It was a “predictory” race between the king’s Samathachai barge and the queen’s counterpart named Kraisoramuk. According to traditional belief, if the queen’s barge won, it signified prosperity and the country would enjoy flourishing crops and happy citizens in the subsequent year. On the contrary, if the king won, it meant disaster.

From historical records, it is evident that royal processions were held on many occasions. A century later, for instance, during the reign of King Naresuan, a barge procession was held on his return journey from a war with Burma. Then during the reign of King Narai in the 17th century, he welcomed the ambassador sent by France’s King Louis XIV with a fleet of royal barges. King Narai also led hundreds of barges on a pilgrimage to Wat Phrabuddhabat in Saraburi province to pay homage to Lord Buddha’s footprint.

In 1767, Ayutthaya fell to Burma. Hundreds of royal barges were burnt by invading Burmese soldiers. Yet in the following year, King Taksin ascended the throne and established Thon Buri as Siam’s new capital on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River. During his 15 years on the throne, he built new war fleets and hundreds of other barges specifically for a grand procession to transport the revered Emerald Buddha from the old capital of Ayutthaya to Thon Buri.

King Rama I — the first of the Chakri Dynasty — moved the capital city to the other bank of the Chao Phraya River in 1782. That was also the beginning of the Rattanakosin era. During his reign, many more royal barges were built including the original royal barge Suphannahong. His intention was to restore the royal barge procession to mimic the country’s glorious days from the Ayutthaya period.

In the reign of King Rama III, the original Anantanagaraj, featuring a seven-headed naga prow, was built. During the reign of King Rama IV, seven new barges were built.

Following World War II when some of the royal barges were damaged by allied bombing, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej The Great ordered the barges to be restored and the royal barge procession revived. After decades of hiatus, a royal barge procession was held once again on the Chao Phraya River in celebration of the 25 centuries of Buddhism in 1957.

During the reign of King Bhumibol, the royal barge procession was held on various occasions — the royal kathin ceremony in 1959, 1961 and 1967, the bicentennial celebration of the Rattanakosin era in 1982, and the 1987 royal barge procession as part of the celebrations for the 60th birthday of King Bhumibol.