Following in Sunthon Phu's footsteps

Following in Sunthon Phu's footsteps

A trip through Thailand's literary and historical heritage

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Following in Sunthon Phu's footsteps
The murals inside the ubosot of Wat Bang Oi Chang were painted in warm tones, distinct from the cool tones of other temples. The murals depict stories of Lord Buddha and his teachings. Photo Courtesy of Krung Thai Card

All along the Chao Phraya, from Bangkok Noi in the capital to Bang Kruai in Nonthaburi, are several old temples and communities that have stood for more than two centuries. These sites are mentioned in the works of Sunthon Phu, the great poet who lived during the reigns of King Rama I through to King Rama IV (1786-1855).

To highlight some of these places of interest along the Chao Phraya River, Krung Thai Card recently organised a press tour with the concept of following Sunthon Phu's poems. The trip saw Thanat Bhumarush, tourist officer of the Bangkok Tourism Division of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration, act as guide.

This sculpture represents Sunthon Phu when he was a student at Wat Sri Sudaram in Bangkok Noi. Photo: Karnjana Karnjanatawe

The journey started at Wat Dusidaram, which is mentioned in the poem Nirat Phukhao Thong (Journey To Phukhao Thong) as Wat Prakhon. Prakhon means boundary pillars.

The temple was built in the Ayutthaya period. Its boundary pillars no longer exist. The temple was renamed Wat Dusidaram during the reign of King Rama II. The highlight of the temple is the mural in the ubosot (ordination hall) considered one of the most beautiful murals of the Rattanakosin era.

From Wat Dusidaram, we moved on to Ban Bu, an old community known for its stone polished bronze-ware (khan long hin). The handicraft also has its roots in the Ayutthaya period.

Highlights include the painting of King Rama V who travelled to the temple by royal barge, a foreign visitor travelling to a floating market and a troop of Mara demons trying to prevent Lord Buddha from attaining enlightenment. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

"Ban Bu has been home to khan long hin makers ever since they fled Ayutthaya when the kingdom fell in the 18th century," said Metta Salanon, 70, manager and owner of Jiam Saengsajja stone-finished bowl factory. "Our ancestors settled in this area. There were more than 200 families who made stone-polished bronze-ware."

Metta's family, who have been running their business for six generations, are the last remaining khan long hin makers in the capital. Visitors to the factory can see the craftsmen forge bronze bowls and refine them until they become the finished product.

"I have had six craftsmen and women working for me since they were young. They're now in their 60s and 70s," said Metta. "It's hard to find younger people who are interested in making the bowls, as it's a labour-intensive job. Even the children of our workers don't want to work in this field. So the craft that we have preserved for more than two centuries will end soon."

Murals in the ordination hall of Wat Dusidaram are recognised as among the most celebrated of the Rattanakosin era. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

Ban Bu community was mentioned in Nirat Suphan (Journey To Suphan Buri), which was written while Sunthon Phu travelling from Bangkok to Suphan Buri during his time in the monkhood.

Another interesting site mentioned in the same poem is Wat Sri Sudaram, the next stop on our journey. Sunthon Phu referred to the temple by its former name, Wat Pakhao. The poet studied there in his youth, a fact which is commemorated in the temple, which houses a statue of Sunthon Phu as a boy.

Wat Sri Sudaram was also built during the Ayutthaya era. Legend has it that the temple was constructed on the site where Than Chi Pakhao (hermit master during the reign of King Narai the Great of Ayutthaya) was last seen. Than Chi Pakhao was said to have helped Phra Visutsunthorn, the ambassador of Siam, and his team enjoy a safe journey to France to visit King Louis XIV in 1686.

The museum at Wat Bang Oi Chang is housed in a traditional Thai-style building. Teerawat Klinphung, village head of Ban Bang Oi Chang, demonstrates how battle weapons were used during the Ayutthaya period. The museum has a collection of items used in the daily lives of people in the past, including old coins, kitchenware, a wooden boat and old pictures, including a rare portrait of King Rama V sitting on the throne. Photos Courtesy of Krung Thai Card

"After the mission was completed, the master wanted to seek solitude. He asked his followers to send him to Bangkok Noi. After he got off the boat, he disappeared and no one saw him again," Thanat told us. "To honour the master, his followers built the temple and named it after him. It was originally called Wat Chi Pa Khao Hai, meaning 'Temple Of The Master Who Disappeared'."

Wat Sri Sudaram was initially renovated by Somdet Chaofa Khrom Phra Sri Sudarak, older sister of King Rama I. Her grandson, King Rama IV, named the temple after her following further renovation. Many locals still refer to it by its original name.

An artist paints a mural for the new ordination hall of Wat Chalo. The mural will be attached to the wall like wallpaper. The new hall is larger than the old one. It consists of two storeys and is decorated with a large barge with a mythical swan head called Suphannahong because the former abbot dreamed about seeing the royal barge docking next to the temple pier. Karnjana Karnjanatawe

After paying our respects to the statue of Sunthon Phu in the temple, we continued on our journey. Next, we came to Wat Bang Oi Chang in Nonthaburi. Although it is quite far away from Wat Sri Sudaram, it is well worth a visit. For me, this temple was the highlight of the trip.

According to our guide, Sunthon Phu wrote about Bang Oi Chang in Nirat Phra Pathom, his account of a journey to pay his respects to Phra Pathom Chedi, Thailand's tallest stupa, in Nakhon Pathom.

At the temple, we met Teerawat Klinphung, village head of Ban Bang Oi Chang.

"Our community has a long history, dating back to the Ayutthaya period. Our ancestors were farmers. Like other communities located near Ayutthaya, we supplied rice to the capital," he said.

The second floor of the museum at Wat Bang Oi Chang houses various old Tripitaka cabinets. Among them are cupboards that show foreign influences such as communities of Chinese people and Cupid. Courtesy of Krung Thai Card

The temple played an important role for the troops of Phraya Tak (later King Taksin the Great who founded the Thon Buri Kingdom). His troops rested in the temple and gathered supplies before moving on to fight against the invading Burmese army.

The temple got its name from the oi chang (wodier) trees which are plentiful in the area.

"In the past, people used the tree bark for elephants. They pounded the bark until soft. The soft bark was then put over the backs of each battle elephant, beneath the howdah. It helped protect the elephant's skin from rubbing directly against the seat," said Teerawat.

The temple houses a museum exhibiting a number of old items, including wooden cabinets for keeping Tripitaka scripture and a portrait of King Rama V given to the temple when he made merit at the temple, according to the village head.

Our last stop was Wat Chalo, mentioned in the poem Nirat Phra Pathom.

Khan long hin makers in Ban Bu Community have worked for Jiam Saengsajja stone-finished bowl factory for five decades. Their bowls are well-known for their durable quality and beauty. Working in front of a blazing oven all day, a pair of blacksmiths need to forge four pieces of stacked heated metal into the shape of a bowl. Each metal sheet is made of a mixture of 70% copper, 20% tin and 10% bronze. This pounding process is called 'bu' in the local dialect, giving the name to this community, Ban Bu. After the basic bowl shape is made, another craftsman will refine the surface with a hammer before sending the bowl to be polished and shaped into a traditional Thai design. The final stage is to make the bowl shiny by applying fine crushed stones called long hin. The stones are wrapped in a piece of cloth soaked in coconut oil. It takes about four days and six skilled craftsmen to finish each bowl. Khan long hin is promoted as a national heritage. Visitors can learn how the blacksmiths work and shop at a small showroom inside the factory. Photos Courtesy of Krung Thai Card

"The wisdom of locals led to the building of the temple before the confluence of Bangkok Noi and Bang Kruai canals. In the past, when people commuted by boat, the temple acted as an indicator to slow down, otherwise their boats may hit the curve or the canal bank," Thanat informed us.

The temple's original ordination hall has been preserved, and houses Buddhist images dating to the Ayutthaya era. In front of the old hall is a new ordination hall which has not yet been completed, despite the project starting about 40 years ago.

Although the temples are spread across two provinces, they can be visited within a day.

"We selected the four temples and community mentioned in the poems of Sunthon Phu because we want people to know more about places that they may pass by or overlook. We want people to know more about these places and appreciate what they have in their communities," said Thanat.

TRAVEL INFO

Jiam Saengsajja stone-finished bowl factory in Ban Bu Community is open to the public on weekdays from 10am to 4pm. There is no entrance fee. Visit its Facebook page at bit.ly/30JyYR6 or call 081-615-7840.

The museum at Wat Bang Oi Chang is open daily. There is no entrance fee but booking is required. Contact Teerawat Klinphung, village head of Ban Bang Oi Chang, at 081-268-1723.

For more information about tourism in Bangkok, visit the Tourism Division of the Culture, Sports and Tourism Department of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration's website at bangkoktourist.com.

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