Known for its Gross National Happiness, Bhutan pushes you to pause and take a break from the hectic lives we lead. And, much like a breath of fresh air Six Senses Bhutan will move you to do the same. The philosophy of GNH has been carefully woven into the design and operations of the luxury chain, which has five "lodges" in this mountainous country: Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, Bumthang and Paro.
Six Senses Bhutan offers 82 spacious villas and suites with stunning views spread across five valleys. Each lodge features a Six Senses Spa and Wellness Village with a layered approach to well-being. Each location has been designed to immerse guests into the local culture. The lodges, which vary in style, showcase the diversity of each valley. Offering sweeping views, the spacious interiors are framed by subtle references to Bhutanese architecture, seen in the simple lines of the natural timber furniture and the presence of locally-inspired touches, such as the traditional wood-burning stoves known as bukharis and vegetable-dyed, antique-washed Himalayan rugs.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Thimphu
With its design and outdoor ponds reflecting the sky, it is easy to see why this lodge is called the "Palace in the Sky". Situated within apple orchards and pine forests, the largest of the Six Senses lodges is perched on hill overlooking the glittering lights of Thimphu valley, offering a magnificent view of Buddha Point on a clear sunny day (even from your chalet) and the rolling mountains. While the approach wasn't as majestic as the grand entrance to the all-wood lobby, once inside it is breathtaking. A prayer pavilion is located in the reflecting ponds and adds to the serenity of the lodge.
Punakha
A long and winding road leads up a hill and to the "Flying Farmhouse". With views of terraced rice fields and traditional houses dotting the hills, this beautiful lodge has a rustic feel and is blessed with a warmer climate. There is even an outdoor pool!
Paro
The Stone Ruins lodge stands next door to the ancient stone ruins of a dzong. Designed to make the most of its high elevation, the lodge offers striking views of Paro valley. As an ode to the ancient stone ruins, a few of the walls are constructed with hand-chiseled, local stones.
Six Senses Thimphu
STAYING IN
Thimphu
Floor-to-ceiling windows, with balconies, make up the suites. I had a first-floor one from which I could see the 52m-high statue of the seated Buddha in the distance. My room came with a bukhari, which I had lit up as it tends to get nippy at night, though it makes the suite cosier. The bathroom is large with a separate stand-alone bathtub and shower area. Soak up the exterior and interior ambience as you enjoy a bath.
Namkha, under the helm of executive chef John Bakker, offers Bhutanese and Indian dishes, along with Western favourites and other Asian delights. My favourite breakfast was the Bhutanese rice porridge called "thup" and the beef momos were even better than the local ones I had in town!
Apart from eating, there is an indoor heated pool and a gym to keep in shape. But, the crowning glory is the spa, where I enjoyed a relaxing traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath, and a luxurious massage after! Though I wouldn't mind a relaxing afternoon sipping on the housemade organic fruit teas and reading a book on the balcony.
Punakha
The first thing that you notice at Six Senses Punakha is the living room that seems to float above the infinity pool and rice paddy fields. You will also get a glimpse of the spa and the meditation sala from the living room. When it was too hot to have breakfast on the patio of Ari, the lodge's restaurant, instead of sitting inside, I chose to place myself in the living room and take in the view.
All the suites, villas and spa village walls are built in the "rammed-earth" style of a traditional Bhutanese house. It is here I experienced my first TV lift cabinet, while lying in the comfy bed. Though the bathroom wasn't as spacious as the Thimpu lodge, it did not stop me from having a soak in the wide bathtub.
In the evenings, it is best to have a BBQ dinner outside Ari and enjoy the cool crisp air and cuddle the lodge dog Lucy. Though Ari offers Mediterranean fare inspired by the warmer climate, it does do Bhutanese cuisine, too should you feel the need to embrace the country completely.
Paro
The suites at this lodge, while not as imposing as Thimpu or Punakha make up with the awe-inspiring valley views. The only minus being that you can see into other suites. If you desire 100% privacy, stay in the villas.
The crowning glory of this lodge is the dinner and a show amid the stone ruins adjacent to the property. Though even the deck of Jangkho, which means ruins, is not a bad place to dine, with the lodge dogs Kyichu and Jampa for company.
Concealed beneath the grassy courtyard lies the sunken spa "village" with an entrance staircase that is discoverable only by foot. At the edge of a cliff, each spa room, outdoor sauna with a cool dip and relaxation room faces the ancient ruins and beautiful valley while the heated swimming pool and gym face the blue pine forests and valley.
Six Senses Punakha
GOING OUT
Thimphu
There are plenty of things to do around the lodge at Thimphu. If you're an outdoors person, don't miss the hour-long hike to Talakha Monastery and have a picnic breakfast. There is also seasonal apple and walnut-picking, a private astrology reading at Pangri Zampa Lhakhang, a visit to the Zorig Chusum (Institute of Traditional Arts and Crafts) or spend the early evening learning the Bhutanese national sport of archery.
Punakha
The highlight of staying at this lodge is the sunset martinis on the banks of the confluence of the Pho Chu and Mo Chu rivers, with the majestic Punakha Dzong as your backdrop. You can also do a moderate and scenic two-hour trek to Chorten Ningpo for a picnic breakfast. Learn how to make ara, which is traditional home brewed alcohol, go whitewater rafting on the Pho or Mo Chu rivers or go bird watching.
Paro
While the main highlight of your stay in Paro is doing the arduous trek to Taktsang Monastery or the Tiger's Nest, there is also mushroom foraging from June to October, organic farming and seed planting to partake in.
Six Senses Paro
FINAL THOUGHTS
Six Senses Bhutan offers everything one needs to experience Bhutan to the fullest. Whether it's hiking through pristine forests, meditating with monks or learning how to make traditional momos, the luxury resort has endless options to nurture the mind, body, spirit and soul, including experiencing the country's rich heritage, mystery and magic up close.
The lodge in Gangtey opens soon and the lodge in Bumthang is scheduled to open in spring 2020.
Six Senses Thimphu, Chunimeding, Babesa, Chang Gewog, Thimphu, Bhutan /Email reservations-bhutan@sixsenses.com / Call +975 2 350 773 / Visit bit.ly/2m9ksDG.
