Nestled in a verdant valley in northern Thailand along the border with Laos, Nan has marvellously preserved its culture, traditions, religion and history, passed down from generation to generation.
With a population of less than 500,000, the province is known for its interesting history, impressive ancient temples, the unity of local people and a relaxed charm. One of its best-known attractions is handwoven fabrics, particularly silks, created using traditional weaving techniques.
"In the past, Nan people did things in the way of Buddha worship in their daily life. For example, they dress in subdued colours, not gaudy ones, when they go to temple. That doesn't fit with the demand of most potential buyers, especially the young generation, these days," says Suksan Pengdith, the managing director for Area 6 of the Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (Dasta).
"Potential customers nowadays also look for products that are easy to wear, not the traditional sarong. Generally, they buy products from shops with a real appreciation of the fabrics but they don't really know where they are originally from, and the weavers lack the power to set prices for products they spent several months making," says Mr Suksan, as he sits next to two weavers in Ban Sao Luang in Muang district.
Local villagers, he says, sell handwoven sarongs to shops for 700 or 800 baht but customers are known to pay more than 10,000 baht.
That's why Dasta, a government agency that seeks to promote sustainable tourism in order to distribute income to local communities, began working with Nan's weavers seven years ago to help them add value to products that build on local wisdom and reflect their identity.
Five years ago, the brand "Nan-Ner-Jaow" was created to market the products made by weaving groups in four communities, consisting mainly of housewives who are normally unemployed after harvesting their crops. By focusing on the participatory process or "co-creation", the initiative has succeeded in promoting local product development and raising tourism income simultaneously, says Mr Suksan.
DIY activity with Taa Gohng fabric in Nan. SUPPLIED
The success of the Nan-Ner-Jaow brand in supporting women's career development and tourism products received the Gold Award 2020 from the Pacific Asia Travel Association (Pata) in the category of Women's Empowerment Initiatives.
"It (the brand) can generate income for local women's groups that they can contribute to further knowledge and skills which can develop art and culture conservation," Pata noted on its website.
The four weaving groups are: Hong Chao Fong Kham, which developed the Nam Lai Yod Nam pattern; Ban Sao Luang, known for the Bor Suak pattern; Ban Na Pong Phatthana, with the Dao Lom Deuan pattern; and Career Support Ban Chiang Rai, which produces the Taa Gohng pattern.
Now that the brand is well established, Mr Suksan says Dasta is considering expanding it further to the service sector, which in turn could attract more tourists and generate more income for the province. Nan-Ner-Jaow is now associated with food and routes for tourists in search the province's unique fabrics.
On the dining front, Hong Chao Fong Kam now offers dishes made from its unique recipes for tourists visiting a teak wood house that is nearly 200 years old. Owned by Chao Fong Kham, the descendant of Chao Anandhawararittidetch, the 62nd ruler of Nan, the Lanna-Thai traditional house features a museum with antiques including silverware and fabrics. Weaving is also demonstrated on the lower level.
"Most Nan people don't want to open restaurants so if you want to taste some of the local food like Ma-Kwaen (Sichuan) pepper-fried chicken, you probably have to go to the house of a local person so they can cook for you," Mr Suksan explained.
The only male member of the 35-member Ban Sao Luang weaving group proudly shows off some of the group's handwoven sarongs. Photo: Nareerat Wiriyapong
In addition to being recognised by Pata for women's empowerment, Nan received the gold award in the Youth Empowerment category for the Dasta Nan Youth Club (DNYC). Under the concept "Nan youth: inherit, conserve, develop and build upon creativity", the five-year-old initiative helps young people discover and develop their potential through activities that benefit the community.
Tourism activities are seen as one way to bring traditional culture and the new generation together. The emphasis is on activities that are fun for young people, which encourages them to deeply absorb their cultural roots. It also harnesses the power of creativity to develop and drive the community toward sustainability.
Chuwit Mitrchob, acting director-general of Dasta, said the organisation is now preparing Nan for the 2021 Creative Cities competition of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (Unesco). Under the agency's three-year plan (2020-22), community-based tourism is a key to promoting destinations that have the potential to win Unesco designation.
In 2019, Unesco designated Bangkok and Sukhothai among 66 new Creative Cities, bringing the total in Thailand to four. Sukhothai, the 700-year-old first capital of Thailand, was named a "Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art" while the current capital Bangkok was designated as a "Creative City of Design".
A member of Ban Chiang Rai displays the weaving group's Taa Gohng pattern. SUPPLIED
The Unesco Creative Cities Network now totals 246 cities, including Phuket which was named a "Creative City of Gastronomy" in 2015, while Chiang Mai was named a "Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art" in 2017.
Mr Suksan also pointed out that with zero Covid-19 cases to date, Nan is seen as a safe destination and one that is becoming increasingly popular among secondary cities promoted by the Tourism Authority of Thailand. But air service remains limited: Since Thai Airways and the budget carrier Nok Air pulled out, only Thai AirAsia serves the province. Return flights can cost as much as 6,000 baht, more expensive than some trips to Hong Kong.
The good news is that Thai Smile Airways is going to start flying to Nan, while Thai AirAsia will add flights from Suvarnabhumi airport in addition to its current ones from Don Mueang in Bangkok. From December onward, there will be a total of eight flights daily from Bangkok to Nan, he said.
Kai ngarm ngorn, a dish found only at Hong Chao Fong Kham in Nan. SUPPLIED
Suksan Pengdith, managing director of the Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (Dasta) Area 6, helps steer efforts to preserve local traditions. SUPPLIED