On the right track
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On the right track

Samut Songkhram's railway market is a must-see

Amphawa floating market is a selling point of Samut Songkhram province.
Amphawa floating market is a selling point of Samut Songkhram province.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) is using its "2015 Discover Thainess" campaign to lure foreign tourists to some hidden gems — 12 provinces most people miss on their trips here.

The provinces are Lampang, Nan, Phetchabun, Buri Ram, Loei, Samut Songkhram, Ratchaburi, Trat, Chanthaburi, Trang, Chumphon and Nakhon Si Thammarat.

The Bangkok Post looked at Lampang in the first of our series about these provinces' tourism potential, infrastructure readiness and problems an influx of tourists may cause.

Our second hidden gem is Samut Songkhram, a small province about an hour's drive from Bangkok. 

Why Samut Songkhram?

After a decade of tourism development, Samut Songkhram has changed from a small province where people make a living from farm products to an undeniable destination for tourists.

Last year, the small province welcomed 2.4 million visitors, and TAT expects the number to increase by at least 10% to 2.64 million this year.

The National Economics and Social Development Board reported that per capita income of people in Samut Songkhram was 95,305 baht per head per year, increasing from 57,881 baht in 2004 when tourism development began

Samut Songkhram is only 416 square kilometres, consisting of Amphawa, Bang Khonthi and Muang districts.

Panya Ngamlert, governor of Samut Songkhram, says the province became known among Thais and foreign tourists because of the popularity of the weekend Amphawa floating market.

Bangkokians like to escape urban pressures to stay in natural surroundings at weekends.

After only an hour's drive to Amphawa, they can enjoy good seafood and cool beverages on the riverside, watch fireflies and relax in chic home stays.

Amphawa is the key selling point for Samut Songkhram and the floating market has been seriously developed since 2004.

"Tourism activities in Amphawa have brought Samut Songkhram back to life," Mr Panya says.

After visitors posted pictures of the floating market on social media, Amphawa became a famous weekend destination for city dwellers and tourists, says Lt Patcharodom Unsuwan, the mayor of Amphawa, manager of King Rama II Memory Park and owner of Baan Tai Had Resort & Water Sports.

His study found that 60% of tourists to Amphawa were female, while many visitors were aged 15-35. Provincial authorities invited internet service providers to install WiFi at the floating market to serve young visitors.

Samut Songkhram boasts many interesting tourism sites such as Wat Bang Kung, an old temple featuring a giant banyan tree, Tha Kha floating market and Bang Nok Khwaek floating market.

Tourists can visit the Ban Bang Phlap community and learn how to make coconut sugar or grow fruits and vegetables.

The new hot destination is Maeklong Railway Market (Talad Rom Hoop), where foreign tourists can enjoy a unique experience. The market is among five must-visit attractions in Samut Songkhram, according to TripAdvisor.

The market is divided by a railway track and when the siren sounds, shopkeepers close their awnings and pull back baskets from the track. Everyone squeezes into the small available space as the train passes, but then it is back to business as usual. 

Vendors at Maeklong Railway Market close awnings to clear the track for a train. The market returns to business as soon as the train passes.

Handling the invasion

The priority for Samut Songkhram is traffic management to cope with the influx of visitors at weekends.

Tour buses are directed to parking spaces in front of the provincial hall and tourists can then board sightseeing vehicles that operate from 8am to 5pm to take them to the floating market.

Provincial authorities operate five sightseeing vehicles that each carry 35 passengers. They run on inner streets and charge only five baht.

About 98 million baht will be spent on landscape improvement in urban areas. Power lines will be laid in municipal zones by the third quarter of this year.

A parking building will be built near Wat Pom Kaeo to increase parking for visitors who want to buy souvenirs at the market.

A bus terminal will be built on Rama II Road in another move to relieve congestion.

"One of the most important things is to create understanding with residents, especially those who do not benefit directly from tourism but are affected by tourist arrivals," Mr Panya says.

Such people include those living alongside canals where tourist boats operate and food vendors at Talad Rom Hoop who do not enjoy brisk sales.

Foreign tourists are excited by the market's uniqueness but do not want to buy vegetables and fresh food.

Provincial authorities have asked the State Railway of Thailand to build a safe viewing point for tourists to take photographs when trains are passing.

Tasty seafood is available at reasonable prices at the floating market.

Problems ahead

A concern about Samut Songkhram is its capacity to serve visitors at weekends, especially at Amphawa. 

"Tourist arrivals are likely to reach 3 million in the next few years. By that time, the province will be packed and traffic congestion will be worse," says Lt Patcharodom.

Tourists must be convinced to visit Amphawa on weekdays and this requires cooperation from all parties to promote the destination. The meetings and incentives market has the potential to organise weekday events.

Meanwhile, fears are growing that booming tourism is making Samut Songkhram lose its identity.

Inthira Vuttisomboon, director of TAT's Samut Songkhram office, says many investors in Amphawa came from other locations and this drove rents for shophouses and stalls at the floating market to rise threefold from prices in 2012.

"Tourism in Amphawa is busy on weekends and this may cap tourism growth in the location and the whole of Samut Songkhram," she says/

"Hotel investors will think carefully about investing in the area as they do not want to see their hotels empty on weekdays." 

Hotels in Amphawa are nearly full at weekends but occupancy rates on weekdays drop to only 30% or lower.

However, many hotels are pinning hopes on local residents and next-generation tourists who like fashionable hotels and home stays along canals

"We should have a campaign to lure young tourists to visit Amphawa and Samut Songkhram and convince them to love and value their homeland," says Lt Patcharodom.

This gem is unlikely to stay hidden for too long.

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