Guo Pei is a government's dream, a fashionista's dream, a common man's dream, a continent's dream. Only once in a blue moon does one person manage to be all these things, especially because the first sometimes brings a bureaucratically archaic factor into the picture, if not done right. But this Chinese haute couturier shatters any perceptions one may have regarding the glitzy industry of high dressmaking.
In Thailand last week for the first time to present her collection at Bangkok International Fashion Week, Guo Pei, who made Rihanna's canary-yellow cape which shot to meme-fame in 2015, is also becoming China's most prolific (and humble) cultural ambassador.
'Encounter' is a past but fitting collection that Guo Pei has brought to show Thai audiences — to represent the first meeting between Pei and Thailand.
Making clothes that are nothing short of being show-stopping spectacles, her designs take from over 30 years of museum visits around the world, but stay true to the main core of ancient techniques of embroidery and the Chinese imperial court. Some of her gowns take up to 50,000 hours or two years to create and there's a strong thread of nationalism she proudly sews into her work.
"As a designer, it is my duty to show Chinese culture and the beauty of Chinese history," she says. "I feel that regardless of what occupation you are in, it's a feeling deep down you should have to love your country and nation. I want to see more Chinese brides wear traditional costume to show that they are Chinese and that they are proud of their heritage."
It's the poster-perfect vessel to bring Chinese culture to the world, but it also fusions in European churches, Versailles silhouettes and from now on, possibly some Thai patterns too.
"Every country's best is always within the royalty," explains the petite and courteous designer. "Always go to the palaces. In China, it would be within the Forbidden City. In Thailand, I went to visit the Grand Palace and Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. I was really excited because I never thought there'd be this much beautiful work to look at here and I want to bring Thai art into my future designs."
Seeing the beauty in things that may be perceived as obsolete or impractical, Pei was thrilled to also see the khon display at the museum.
"It's not the highest level of intricacy because performers still need to be able to move," she comments. "But it's still magnificent and very special because someone has to sew it on right there when performers put on their outfits."
On this subject of bespoke or haute couture coming from Asian countries, the calm designer insists that there is no difference between Western and Eastern haute couture.
"It's just that they don't know us and what we are doing here back in Europe," says the first Chinese designer to be invited to show at Paris Haute Couture Week by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, France's old guard that governs the industry of haute couture. Her impressive accomplishment is further highlighted by being displayed at the Met in 2015 under the "China: Through The Looking Glass" exhibition, alongside other luminaries such as Tom Ford and Yves Saint Laurent.
"Yes, the West is more advanced than us in this field, but we need to be more confident that we are good enough, or else we will always just be followers. Success in designing comes from knowing yourself. You can do it too if you have enough confidence, inspiration and love."
Born in 1967 right in the midst of the Cultural Revolution, Pei grew up surrounded by the monotony of black and grey clothes made of cotton and Mao jackets, where everyone looked and dressed the same. It is no surprise that her grandmother's stories of "colourful slippery fabric, embroidered with butterflies and flowers" from yesteryear sparked her desire and interest in learning more about clothes. Following her daydreams of silk and to revive the flourishing age of imperial grandeur, she was among the first generation to study fashion in 1982 at Beijing School of Industrial Fashion Design. It was a long, long road before she reached global recognition, even more so in a nation that was not cultured in the realm of fashion.
"It is very difficult to be a designer in China," says Pei. "Like finding an oasis in a desert."
Looking back at her education, the designer realises that what she had learned was not as deep or detailed as what modern-day courses offered, but she's grateful because that very dearth of knowledge pushed her to seek more, learn more and teach herself more.
"I never thought it was strenuous. It's not like I had a choice as there is only one way up the hill and I just thought that it's something everyone goes through. If I had been born in today's age, there may not have been the Guo Pei now."
Dressed in a frill-free black dress with inconspicuous, wiry gold accessories and having a kindly disposition, Pei does not seem to be high maintenance like the clothes she makes. Any perceptions of haughtiness and snobbery associated with this glamorous circuit disperses with this woman who looks like your average nice mum. Customers who want a piece of her haute couture pay a membership fee starting at 25 million baht, with the outfit's bill deducted from the figure. Over the past 20 years, she has accumulated a list of around 500 members. It's a painless payment system she's finally figured out after decades, especially with endless additional alterations that the designing and fitting process usually entails -- and also an assurance which promises that "we're in this together".
"It's actually the customer's profit if I add more elements with each addition, because I don't charge any more," she jokes. "In the West, it's only the people at the top of society who buy haute couture and their designers too don't come down to meet the middle market. I welcome all and there are normal people who come and ask me to fix or alter ancient clothing. I welcome that too because I feel good when people bring things like that to get fixed. My clothes are not the type that are just around with one person in one time, but it's something that will stay with them for the rest of their life, so it's good to give this time to the customer."
Rihanna may not get to keep the fur-trimmed cape and Met gala gown with its train which took three escorts to carry, but she definitely spawned over 500 million Google searches for Guo Pei. Pei recalls that it was her husband who first saw memes online and showed them to her on the way back from the Met gala. She remembers laughing together at how funny and cute it was that her work was compared to an omelette and pizza, but she remains clear-eyed and does not let stardom or silly banter go to her head. Steadfast and determined to keep doing what she loves most, it wouldn't be a surprise to see her name becoming a more common one inside the realm of royalty, Olympic-level extravaganzas and epic movies outside China soon.
Her success surely brings fame and accolades to her country of birth, but to Pei, it doesn't just end there.
"I don't think it's only to China, but to all of Asia. I'm bringing hope to a new generation of designers that to be on that top podium is not impossible. I want to bring Chinese culture to the world, but I'm also bringing hope to Asians."
