Have you ever wondered why there are so many restaurants and food shops in Thailand? How do they create their dishes? How many different types of restaurants are there? Are all of them successful? How do the successful manage to maintain their popularity?
The answer to the first question is simple — most Thais think they can cook and are capable of running a food shop. For generations, Thai families have kept up various cooking traditions. Thais love cooking. There is also a commonly held belief that running a food shop isn’t difficult.
Besides Thai food, many ethnic dishes have long traditions in Thailand, particularly those of Chinese, Muslim, Mon, Vietnamese and Indian origin. The older generations pass on recipes and cooking techniques to their children.
A major reason that running a food shop is so appealing is because it is self employment, and therefore, associated with independence and freedom. If you have the talent and the patience, you stand a good chance of making the business viable. If you can build up a reputation, you can attract more customers, allowing you to turn a decent profit.
Over time, restaurants in Thailand have grown in number and variety. Marketing strategies have developed. Noodle shops in the same area will offer different varieties of noodles. Where one shop sells stir-fried noodles, the next shop will provide noodle soup. Khao gaeng (rice and curry) shops in fresh markets sell cheap food to
take away. Shops in office buildings usually provide ample seating and open early in the morning.
Ahan taam sang shops, that cook to order, are common near condominiums and workplaces. The residents and workers lack the time and/or facilities to cook for themselves, so such eateries provide a valuable service. If the food is good, hygienic and reasonably priced, the shop is likely to succeed.
At the opposite end of the scale, Thailand is home to any increasing number of high-class restaurants. These are a world away from the bare-bones roadside eateries. Instead, you’ll find lavish interior decoration and sophisticated menus. Customers come to enjoy exquisite food cooked with top quality ingredients that come beautifully arranged. These restaurants reflect how far the restaurant industry has advanced.
The fine dining boom has been propelled in part by the growing number of international cooking institutes established in Thailand in recent years. Trainees tend to be members of a new generation of ambitious young Thais, with strong determination and clearly defined goals. Upon graduation, they are recruited to work in high-end hotels and restaurants. Many go overseas to gain valuable experience before returning to open fine-dining establishments of their own.
However, while the attraction of running one’s own restaurant is clear, there are plenty of pitfalls. Many restaurants and food shops don’t succeed. There are numerous factors to consider when operating a restaurant.
Before opening any kind of eatery, proprietors must have a realistic idea of the customer base and number of potential diners they can expect. Once open, they must maintain quality and value. They need to make sure they are open when they are supposed to be. They need to be prepared to make significant investments to grow and improve.
The number of factors to be taken into account increase the further upmarket you go. A strategic location, attractive decor, an appealing atmosphere, ample parking are prerequisites for fine-dining establishments. The restaurant must attract attention. The menu must be enticing; the quality must stand out. The staff must be well trained. The quality of the ingredients must be high and consistent. Efficient management and promotion are required to make the business a success.
Opening a restaurant is not that easy anymore. It remains a great challenge and good luck to anyone preparing to embark on such an undertaking. But they should think carefully and prepare well.
Of course, there are always exceptions and it’s worth taking note of cases where things succeed while doing it differently. Some businesses are fruitful despite the lack of a prime location or dazzling interior. There are simple shops that offer simple dishes and don’t pay much heed to advertising or marketing. Loyal customers still go there and eat. Such distinguished shops exist all over the country. What follows are some of my favourites.
Raan Nai Daeng sells hoi tod (mussel pancake) on Soi Sukorn 1, opposite Wat Traimit, Hua Lamphong. Raan Bamee Mu Daeng Nai Hua To located behind Sri Yan market on Nakhon Chai Si road has been selling only beef balls in noodle soup for decades.
In Ang Thong province, there is an old place known for its delicious phad Thai, made the old-fashioned way with pieces of starfruit sprinkled on top. It can be found behind Wat Thong Khong on the Chao Phraya River.
Ran Pa Song is an old house in Lao Soang village in Khao Yoi district of Phetchaburi. It offers ahan taam sang dishes, including gaeng pa (spicy curry with wild boar-meat or fish), pla duk phad phet (spicy stir-fried catfish), fried fresh mackerel and moo sam chan khluk see iew tord (pork belly meat flavoured with soy sauce and deep-fried). The curry paste is prepared using spices and herbs grown by ethnic Karen.
On Bang Phra Beach, there is a restaurant called Jay Nong’s where you can order superb gaeng pa pla het khone (het khone fish prepared tom yam or spicy curry style) and pla het khone dipped in batter and fried.
These establishments are located in old communities, along narrow passages or behind old temples, in remote sois or villages, or in old shophouses with no signs at the front.
They have often been in operation for generations, managing to maintain their original, unique characters. The food is lovingly and expertly prepared, using tried and tested methods. When customers get to eat delicious food passionately cooked in a proud but humble old establishment, they cannot help but feel they have made a special new discovery. Food for thought.
