Come for the view, stay for the food
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Come for the view, stay for the food

Superlatives don't just spill from the vista at Mahanakhon Bangkok SkyBar

Come for the view, stay for the food

For once the hype falls short. It's impossible to eat and imbibe at Thailand's highest restaurant and bar and not be beguiled by the whole shebang.

It starts with the eagerly anticipated penetration of the totemic “pixelated building”, then being ushered into a VIP shoot set in motion by mentioning to the quasi air hostesses your mission: to dine atop one of the tallest buildings in Thailand.

The course skyward is tricked out with morphing murals and lifts that become faux VR pods from door-snap to release on level 76; an under 50 seconds rocket ride paradoxically invoking the sensation of standing still.

But if the approach is Ready Player One the actual venue is James Bond billionaire lair. Though the infinity view through the Gotham-go-getting window walls is magnetic, so too is the indulgently intriguing interior designed as “an eclectic journey” by French architect Tristan Auer of Wilson Associates. Plus a jungly conservatory and a terrace where tobacco smoke is permitted to waft across the Bangkok bling. Heck, even the loos are worthy of the Louvre and the view from the gents legendary.

Layered fabrics, lustrous wood and mirrors frame a Thai-infused French execution tottering towards the feminine end of the extended gender spectrum. Antique leather-bound books, original artworks and ceramics, primitive art, egg shell “stars in the sky” tables, and collector's artefacts, from ancienne candelabras to Parisian shoe lasts and a stuffed scarlet macaw presiding at the dashing white marble stretch bar, lend a private penthouse vibe.

Meanwhile, like 007 villain henchmen, harnessed Spidies flit around the glass lift and spiral staircase leading to the IG and FB-spinning Skywalk and topmost level 78, keeping it gleaming clean.

And at least as alluring as the cinematic set are the equally utopian bar bites, a la carte and set menus, curated by driven American exec chef Joshua Cameron, alumni of Eleven Madison Park's World's Best Restaurant class of 2017.

Arriving for lunch on a sparklingly clear day, our appetites to return for a star-spangled dinner were well-whetted by a 2- or 3-course lunch set menu, with three starters and mains (meat, fish, vegetarian) and two dessert choices, priced 850 and 1200 net respectively.

To wit:

Organic spicy-marinated pork jowl, wood-fired grilled, sliced and garnished with “nam jim jaow gel”, the Thai tamarin-based BBQ sauce, salted cucumber with coriander, toasted rice, spring onion tempura.

Cooked and puffed three-grain salad, blended with kale/hazelnut pesto and comte cheese, around a wholesome hub of herbed labneh yoghurt.

Norwegian salmon house-cured and smoked then torch-seared and served with cucumber three ways, fennel-lemon vinaigrette, tomato and fish consommé.

Grilled brined and sous-vide tenderised pork loin, honey-mustard glazed, served with garlic mashed potato, Brussels sprouts with pickled mustard seeds, bacon lardon and bacon vinaigrette.

Among the mains, seabass is relieved of its skin which is steamed, dried and fried and served with fresh tom yum seasoning over the fluffy fish and finished with creamy nam jim emulsion.

Full-flavoured all-flour Parisian gnocchi blended with garlic confit, wholegrain mustard, herbs, lemon zest served in a meaty mushroom sauce with fresh mushrooms topped with Parmesan shavings.

For dessert there's either blueberry and Earl Grey tea mousse with lemony cream or honey and lavender infused ganache with honey crème anglaise, both over crumbled biscuit.

All utterly awesome.

A la carte dinner choices range signature Hokkaido uni panna cotta with ikura and yuzu ponzu (B900) to 48-hour Australian short ribs with couscous (B1,200).

Choose from over 100 wine labels from B450/glass Russian Jack NZ Sauvignon Blanc to B57,400/bottle Chateau Angelus Bordeaux. Liquid alchemy by Hyde & Seek mixologists Bennie and Dannie Sorum.

  • Lunch: 11-3.
  • Evening: 5-1 (main kitchen closes 1030, bar bites till midnight).
  • Please dress decorously.
  • Tel. 02 677 8722 for reservations.
  • Facebook: MahanakhonBangkokSkyBar
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