A lesson in culinary history while on an Italian roadtrip while still in Bangkok is perhaps what is the USP of Via Emilia.
Via Emilia, named after the ancient route that runs the length of the Emilia-Romagna region linking Rimini on the coast with Piacenza in the North, offers up a taste of a favourite Italian region to eat in. Other than "mama's kitchen", that is. The quaint place, tucked into a quiet soi off Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 17, is striking with a huge mural on one wall and has outdoor seating to enjoy the cool breeze we've been experiencing lately.
A good amuse bouche would be one of my favourite cold cuts -- Mortadella Ai Pistacchi (B130), which is a Bologna traditional cold cut with pistachios. Served with gnocco fritto mortadella or golden pillows, it's a good dish to whet the appetite. A true Emilia-Romagna starter! The trick to eating a meat-heavy meal is to always order a salad and the signature Emiliana (B420) is the way to go. Prosciutto di Parma, cherry tomato, wild rocket, Parmesan crisps and balsamic.
From left: Cassone alle erbe and Il cotechino di Modena con cream di patate; Gelato al balsamico.
Gnocchi con gorgonzola e balsamico.
Though not often seen on Italian menus in town, the Piadina or flatbread is very much from the Romagna region, traditionally made in a teggia. Cassone alle erbe (B240) is filled with spinach, mozzarella and Parmesan, and is so unexpectedly Italian! Shops serving piadina are like 7-Elevens in Thailand -- found throughout the region, in every corner, each with its own fillings.
Is there a better combination than meat and potatoes? The Il cotechino di Modena con cream di patate (B290) or slow-cooked traditional Emilia pork sausage is succulent and goes well with the creamed potatoes. The sausage is made in-house and includes all the parts of the pig, including the head. It does have a tad acidic quality to it, which pairs well with creamy potatoes.
Since Bangkok is experiencing, what I like to call "hot soup weather", there is nothing like a Capon broth or meat broth. The Cappelletti in Brodo (B290) is my broth of choice. A hearty soup filled with hat-shaped pasta, filled with chicken that is used to make the broth. Once you've tasted it on its own, add a bit of Parmesan to make it a tad richer. I love a good broth and this one is delicious; a good palate cleanser for what's to follow!
I love me a bit of blue cheese and the Gnocchi con gorgonzola e balsamico (B390) is rich, creamy and heavenly! Fork-shaped potato dumplings are mixed with a creamy gorgonzola fondue and drizzled with aged balsamic. Yum, yum and then some! I also love veal (sue me!) and am always excited to see it on menus. However, this time I bypassed it for the Coscolette d'Agnello impanate (B790) or golden breadcrumbed lamb chops, served with a salad and rosemary potatoes. Side note: I'm still craving this.
After a rather heavy meal, all I wanted was a simple, yet tasty dessert and decided on Gelato al balsamico (B190). Fiordilatte ice cream drizzled with traditional balsamic from Modena, coz is there any better?
Though this may seem a tad too meat-heavy (you were warned), Via Emilia has plenty of seafood, fish and vegetarian options. I just love meat. Visit fb.com/viaemiliabangkok.
Mortadella Ai Pistacchi.
From left: Coscolette d’Agnello impanate; Cappelletti in Brodo. (Photos: Siroj Pairomahakij)
