The new Thai restaurant just opened at Mode Sathorn"fashionable lifestyle hotel", simply named Rice and Chilli, dares to be different and, at the end of the day, pulls it off in some style.
There's been a lot of naval gazing over the years as to how Thai restaurants can differentiate themselves while still being true to all those traditions that you forsake at your peril. But few have come up with anything that makes you look at it all in a whole new way.
Mode Sathorn has been bold with all its restaurant and bar concepts, both food and decor. That includes the Thai-French BLD Bistro on the ground and mezzanine, The Sathorn local-history-inspired all-day diner, the futuristic disco that is Theatre Bar, and sexy The Roof@38th Bar with its 360o city views. Rice & Chilli takes similar cues of modern flair, interactivity and upscale cuisine.
The basic culinary philosophy is to create Thai dishes that can compete on sumptuous consumption and photogenic looks with anything out of the great gastronomy cookbook. That means using first-rate, mostly imported primary ingredients in place of what is commonly found, and bringing in a chef as adept at mixing sauces as at sculpting artworks.
And the food has to look handsome if it is to complement the inspired decor, already much requested as a setting for fashion shoots. The rice of the name dictates a lot of white with the idea of conveying both the purity of the staple in a bowl and the ubiquitous steam that signals its preparation. Chilli, of course, injects contrasting elements of red which adds a sense of excitement similar to the way the dramatic purple exterior of the building shouts "hip".
You spill directly from the elevator into a red reception area with a bar and stools to perch on and wait for your other arrivals, if you choose, the meanwhile sipping something shaken or stirred. Ahead is a floor to ceiling glass wine cellar wall, to the right the restrooms, and behind a giant intricately patterned lacquer door, a swanky private dining room with plush red padded walls.
A happy accident is here most evident - the fact that the restaurant is smack outside Surasak Skytrain station. Its 5th floor elevation peers directly into the cubist confusion that is the Bangkok metro in action. Shades of Blade Runner without the sinister undertones spring to mind.
You enter the restaurant proper up a gently sloping polished hardwood ramp which could also be redolent of public infrastructures, except that what greets you is not exposed brickwork and aircon ducts but something much more feminine.
From the ceiling hang strips of white chiffon gently waiving steamily. Dining tables are arranged in a single split-level row all along the floor-to-ceiling elegantly latticed window wall that invites the metro milieu outside inside. They are covered with creamy white cloths and fine dining place settings. On the lower level they are mostly surrounded by white moulded leatherette chairs, at once minimalist and chic. Most eye-catching, however, are all the upper level tables and a couple down below that are partially framed like four poster beds with wispy white demi-sheers a la mosquito net. These tables include double divan seats set with soft silk cushions in subtle earth tones filigreed with leaf motifs.
If it all sounds very peaceful, it is. But get this: Rice & Chilli is also very much alive. A third seating option comprises a row of red bucket stools along a wood-topped counter behind which is a bar, behind which, through a wide hatch is the clearly perceived shiny steel open theatre kitchen, infusing the space with freshness, creativity and purpose.
It's all pretty impressive and, better still, the food lives up to the fanfare. Executive Sous Chef Suthon Polkamchat cut his culinary teeth on Western cuisine before spotting an opening to fuse those skills with Thai food to create something that wouldn't be upstaged even by a coq au vin or chateaubriand.
That's quite a tall order and it doesn't come easy. Hence the menu counts quality and creativity above merely offering a laundry list of every Thai dish under the scorching tropical sun. Nevertheless, it covers all the categories - appetizers, dips, soups, curries, main dishes, single dishes and desserts. Helpfully, especially for non-Thais, each dish is illustrated, so you get what you expect.
Two appetizers, a main and a dessert proved plenty for our party of two to get our teeth into.
First to arrive was Salmon Choe Numpla (420) - a long square plate set with five shooter glasses brimming with an oozy blush pink cold soup topped with a sprig of mint, hiding inside which were fat roll mops of fresh-poached Norwegian salmon. One sip confirmed that the red was that of fresh chillies and thus revealed that Thais are as much targets of the restaurant as those not used to spicy food. Probably if you don't like the hot stuff at all, you won't go for this dish. But if you like it spicy without forcing steam out of your ears, then it should be within your range.
Like a good yum or Thai salad, it's hot but not fiery, nicely finessed so that the salmon flavour still trumps its bath of spicy sweetness. My advice is pick up the shooters and drink the contents, not neglecting to chew first of course. The pleasure is commensurate with the intensity of the flavour.
This was soon joined by Phad Hoi Malang Poo Kub Prik Pun (290), another long thin plate, this time set with five plump New Zealand mussels steamed with fresh lemongrass, shallots and basil. This was more obviously traditional Thai fare but with the unusually premium primary ingredient capitalizing on more of its potential.
Our large-scale main, Massaman Nong Gae (690), took the popular southern Thai dish to another level with its marinated New Zealand lamb shank centrepiece in plenty of peanutty gravy with pearl onion, cherry tomatoes and balls of sweet potato. This was accompanied by plenty of the fruity and slightly sharp vinegar and shallot condiment that complements such curries so wonderfully. The meat was delectably tender and joined with the also excellent jasmine white rice and red rice and signature chilli fried rice,it was a dish worth dropping by for its sake alone.
Chef's extra care and flare were also evidenced in our dessert, Sala Loy Kaew, chilled salak in syrup with fresh strawberry. Salak is a difficult fruit to catch just right. You don't know how ripe it is until you open it and it can be inedibly sour. But you can bring out the best by infusing it with sugar syrup over a couple of days and, in this case, it is well worth the effort because this fleshy sweet and sour fruit is a true Thai treasure.
As mentioned, the bar signals the availability of creative cocktails (280) besides the wines, local and imported beers and whatnot. One of the most original offerings is Tom Yum Gung Tini where vodka is infused with the herbs and spices that create Thailand's most famous dish over a couple of days. Mango and Sticky Rice cocktail combines the rice of rice vodka with ripe mango and coconut milk while Pomegranate and mango combine with white sparkling wine for an inspired Thai spritzer.
This isn't the famous Thai street food, not by a long shot. It wants acceptance in the finest dining rooms for being as gourmet as the best of them. And guess what - it actually doesn't need to excuse itself at all.
Location: Rice & Chilli is located on the 5th floor of Mode Sathorn by Siam@Siam Hotel.
Lunch: 11.30-14.00, last orders at 13.30
Dinner: 18.30-23.00, last orders at 22.30
