Charcoal is no ordinary Indian restaurant. First of all, they don't serve curry. Secondly, kebabs are the king of the menu. Thirdly, you can have your skewers with creative cocktails too. Positioning itself as a kebab specialist, the brand new restaurant offers something different to Bangkok's dining scene. The impressive decor has an industrial feel with subtle and playful Indian touches. The moment the elevator door opens you can't miss the many pieces of perforated orange aluminium squares that are lit up from underneath. They move in conjunction with electric fans that blow up some wind, mimicking fire. The men's toilet is equipped with sounds and signs found at authentic Indian markets (we can't speak for the women's bathroom because our male reviewer didn't want to be branded a perve). Look up to the very high ceiling and you should notice that it's covered with a screen pattern found at mosques. Outdoor seats are positioned next to the swimming pool with a view of the city beyond. There are many other details, from placemats to aprons, but you should experience it yourself. Suffice to say, a serious amount of attention has gone into creating a memorable atmosphere and it pays off.
Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology
Indian
5/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 6pm-midnight 089-307-1111
www.charcoalbkk.com, www.fb.com/charcoalbkk
THE MENU
Murgh malai kebab (B420++) features five pieces of aromatic and tender chicken that almost melt in your mouth. They are juicy and slightly pinkish on the inside. Although Paneer tikka (B350) is a vegetarian dish, it contains volumes of flavour. Four chunky cubes of fresh cottage cheese are smoky from the tandoor grill and have a texture similar to tofu but softer. They burst with a symphony of spices. Four pieces of Charcoal scallops (B750) are carefully grilled so it remains plump and juicy, and are sensibly seasoned so their mild sweetness still comes through. Kakoori (B700) is a dish fit for a toothless king. Minced mutton mixed with kidney fat forms a pate-like texture that requires minimal chewing so you can focus on the delicious flavours instead. Another dish of royal quality is Sikandar ki raan (B900 for half portion, B1,500 for full). The mutton leg is juicy and aromatic with a crispy outer layer, while a squeeze of lime adds contrast and takes the dish to new heights. These kebabs are already flavourful on their own but you can complement them with a condiment set that consists of papadum, mint chutney and fresh onion ring. Charcoal also offers an extensive list of cocktails to sip with kebabs. Try 1947: Independence (B350) which offers smooth foam as a prelude to citrus sips with a hint of pomegranate.
INSIDER TIP
Rohit Sachdev is the brains behind Charcoal. He's the MD of Soho Hospitality, an interior design and F&B development firm that also created Above Eleven. Joseph Boroski, who is responsible for the cocktails at many leading places, has concocted the list of spice-infused spirits for Charcoal. Prince Paan from Delhi also has an outlet inside the restaurant. Try their betel wraps if you're feeling particularly adventurous.
SOCIAL MEDIA MOMENTS
There are many Instagram-able moments here, from the spice gallery to the collection of tiffins from food delivery system in Mumbai. Take a picture with the paan shop and people may think you're actually in India.
VALUE & VERDICT
Without question, Charcoal has some killer kebabs. There's no moment when you feel like a rack of spices has exploded in your mouth. They do use spices, but sensibly, in our opinion. The restaurant is a unique vision materialised. Foodies looking to broaden their horizons should definitely try it. We think it should be good for a fun date night by candlelight next to the pool so long as you don't plan any tongue-to-tongue contact afterwards.
