Indique's ingenious comfort 
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Indique's ingenious comfort 

The set-up

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE

Indique is located on the second floor of the Park 22 building, on Sukhumvit Soi 22. The interior is decorated in gaudy yet attractive golds, purples and dark browns, colours befitting Indian cuisine's country of origin. There is also a large balcony, perfect for smoking shisha or relaxing with a few drinks. Like the menu, the restaurant's decor is a seamless blend of the modern and traditional. Indique has been in operation for approximately eight months, but is still a relative secret in Bangkok. But like all juicy secrets, it will in all probability soon be outed.

Indique

Indian gastropub
Park 22, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Daily, 11am-1am (last order 12am)
094-821-3261
Fb.com/indiquebangkok

The menu

To visit Indique is to almost certainly make comparisons to Gaggan, the internationally renowned culinary darling of Bangkok. The two establishments are similar in ways, but think of Indique as a halfway point between Gaggan's minimalist molecular gastronomy and hearty Indian comfort food. This concept, created by owner Ravinder Singh's son, Gurveer, is a clever one, offering diners an array of dishes that will impress both eyes and palate. It is less fusion than Indian food in a tuxedo. Make no mistake, there is no pretension here -- although there is quite a bit of creativity and ingenuity, evidence of which can first be found in the stunning cocktails created by mixologist Varu Walia.

Among our favourites are the GJT (gin jasmine tea) and the Spicy whisky (B299), made with green chilli-infused Jack Daniels and Indian spices. The Chuski margarita, a combination of the classic Mexican beverage with an Indian ice (popsicle) garnish, also lingers in our memory. The same goes for the Green apple foamantini (B299), which is a Granny Smith martini topped with mojito foam. 

We began our meal with Paneer tukda (B249), which is sour, spicy and delicious, thanks to tamarind sauce. The dish, served in a poppadom bowl, is available with or without chicken.

Bharwire golgape (B99) is an aromatic, wonderfully presented rendition of the famed Indian street food -- crisp, hollowed spheres of puri, filled with chutney, veggies and other goodies.

CT Cornettos (B219) features cold (and very, very fresh) chopped chicken tikka in fried poppadom cones. It is served in a small porcelain tricycle, a humourous homage to the Indian ice-cream man's vehicle of choice. The dish was one of the highlights of our meal.

Dahi kebabs (B209), upon initial inspection, appear normal -- until you catch a glimpse of the beautiful pomegranate honey caviar that tops the dish. Saffron- and paprika-infused sauces, spread like thin coats of colourful paint on the serving dish, add flavour. 

Equally interesting are the Mozzarella and tomato cigars (B169). Chatpata paneer and Mushroom-cheese varieties of the fried, egg roll-like dish are also available. Indian salsa is served on the side, giving the dish a zesty kick.

Shredded lamb leg in a flour mash net (B349), Butter chicken (B289) and Mutton rogan josh (B349) rounded off our hearty meal. Each is outstanding. The only problem was finding room in our stomachs for a bit of everything. 

Insider tip

Should you run into owner Singh, ask him to perform one of his many card tricks. His sleight of hand will surely amuse and amaze you. If you are lucky, perhaps he will teach you one or two. Singh also claims to have the (un)natural ability to "smell" colours, so bring along a pack of crayons or coloured pencils and have him prove it.

Value and verdict

We spent a staggering five hours in Indique, eating, speaking with the owners and various members of staff -- and drinking whisky. We did not walk home, we weaved. Our alcohol-soaked time in the restaurant, coupled with delicious, filling, authentic food and a very welcoming ambience, has converted us into return customers. Have dinner, or lunch, or a few drinks at Indique, which feels to us overlooked in Bangkok's crowded dining scene. You will leave full and happy.

Shredded lamb leg wrap.

Butter chicken.

CT cornettos.

Spicy whisky.

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