Echoes of the past

We were mesmerised by vast lush paddy fields on either side of the road where equestrians expertly rode their horses as we gazed out of our van en route to Suphan Buri. However, ancient temples and historical ruins remain powerful attractions for travellers to discover Thailand's rich history and fascinating cultural heritage.

Based on artefacts found here that date back between 3,500 and 3,800 years, this settlement is thought to have been on the east banks of the Tha Chin River as early as the New Stone Age. During the Ayutthaya period, it's here that King Naresuan and Burmese Crown Prince Maha Uparaja fought a fabled royal battle on elephant back that resulted in Siam's independence.

Although it was formerly a frontline town and is now surrounded by arable land, the way of life here has changed as a result of modern farming technology. In order to honour local wisdom, Buffalo Village serves as a living museum and outdoor playground where young generations can learn more about their ancestry and conventional rice farming.

Located in the Sri Prachan district, this 70 rai hamlet was opened in 2002 to offer a wide range of recreational activities, representing the legend of Suphan Buri and buffaloes, which have long been significant to Thai culture.

While walking through the entrance, visitors can imagine themselves travelling back in time 100 years when this Central Region's waterside community was lined with traditional Thai-style wood houses that stood on stilts to let air and sunlight in while open spaces were used for daily activities like cooking.

"We want to reflect Thai culture and lifestyle from the past to the present. Suphan Buri is covered with paddy fields, and Thailand's staple meal is rice. Buffaloes were widely used in Thai agricultural and grass-roots communities until the government urged farmers to switch to using machines. They chose modern technology since it is more practical and capable of accelerating the process. Finally, they made the choice to sell their buffaloes," said Manit Buathong, a manager at Buffalo Village.

Strolling further, a pair of buffaloes are seen soaking in a mud pond to cool themselves and nourish their skin, while farmers are demonstrating to visitors how to plunge and prepare a plot for the upcoming rice-growing season. There is also a sizable corral where guests may ride buffaloes, see them bathe and feed them.

"We initially purchased eight buffaloes before increasing the number to 100. The majority of buffaloes we received were from farmers and those who buy them from abattoirs. Swamp buffalo and Murrah buffalo are the two different breeds that we have. We give each buffalo two straw bales every day, and also let them graze in the area."

Standing in the heart of the village, Kin Fae Du Fai café is encircled by a sizable swamp where a herd of black and white buffaloes enjoy swimming. Visitors can take a seat on the deck and feed them fresh grass while sipping coffee and refreshing drinks that go well with buffalo-inspired delicacies and snacks.

On the other side, a stadium hosts a buffalo show where visitors can learn more about the significance of the animal in Thai culture. According to local belief, a black buffalo with nice skin, a white tongue tip, a white area on its forehead and below its chin, a white tail, and white feet will bring its owner prosperity. On the stage, they offer a warm grin to welcome visitors and demonstrate their ability to climb a flight of stairs or wait in line to serve as a bridge.

Just a five-minute drive away from Buffalo Village, we follow the footprints of King Naresuan and his troops to Wat Phang Muang. Legend has it that King Naresuan's purple female elephant perished there when he set up camp next to the Tha Chin River, causing the monarch to rename the location Phang Muang community in honour of the elephant.

Later, the temple was erected in 1807 and then abandoned, before being reconstructed. Its ubosot was built in 1954 to house a 700-year-old Sukhothai-style statue of Luang Pho Sophit, which had been moved from Bangkok's Wat Ratchaburana. Worshippers come to pray for good health, a warm family and success in selling property. Outside, a towering statue of Thao Wessuwan was created in 2021 to serve as a guardian, bringing good fortune to visitors and defending the land.

From the temple, we take a 20-minute drive to Sam Chuk Market, which won the 2009 Unesco Asia-Pacific Heritage Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation. More than 100 traditional timber shophouses line both sides of the four main lanes, evoking the nostalgic ambience of a century ago when the Tha Chin River was still a significant mode of transport and this riverside community functioned as a 24-hour rest stop for merchants and travellers heading to Bangkok.

Some walls are covered with street art to show the way of rural life, while vendors offer a wide range of mouthwatering local food such as bak chang (sticky rice dumplings wrapped in lotus leaves), khanom pia (Chinese-style flaky pastries filled with red bean and salted egg yolk or red bean and sweetened gourd), khanom sali (Thai sponge cake), giant pork balls, pounded pork, roasted duck and sun-dried fish.

The Baan Coke Cafe and Gallery is a great spot to take a breather with a tasty drink and appreciate a range of rare Coca-Cola memorabilia from the owner's private collection. Browsing through stores of vintage toys, kitchenware, handcrafted products, bicycles and home décor items brings back childhood memories.

Sitting at the heart of the lively market, the 107-year-old three-storey wood house of tax collector Khun Jamnong Jeenarak was turned into a community museum in 2004, as part of the Samchuk Revitalisation, a joint effort between the Chumchonthai Foundation and the local residents.

A mix of old photos and drawings showcase breathtaking vistas of a commercial hub, historical sites, river transportation and religious rituals to honour Sam Chuk's charming cultural legacy. There is also a replica of the old market that shows how it was laid out, and the antiques and furniture from the Khun Jamnong family's collection are on display.

Late the following morning, we made our way to the City Pillar Shrine in downtown Suphan Buri and pay homage to a revered Lop Buri-style stone statue of God Vishnu with four hands, assumed to have been created 1,300 to 1,400 years ago.

A shrine was originally built in the Ayutthaya period and in 1904 King Chulalongkorn contributed his personal funds to renovate and expand the compound so that local worshippers could visit for devotion. It underwent a massive refurbishment in 1964 employing a fusion of Thai and Chinese architectural designs, and some impressive scenes from Journey To The West and the Eight Immortals can be seen on its walls.

The adjacent Descendants Of The Chinese Dragon Museum is embraced by a colossal sculpture of a golden dragon flying to heaven. More than 100 million baht was invested in this project to commemorate the 20th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Thailand and China in 1995, and it took 10 years to create a cutting-edge multimedia exhibition on Chinese history and culture so that future descendants could learn more about their origins.

Inside, it has 20 rooms using advanced light and sound technology to take visitors to the imaginative world of Chinese mythology. After walking through an entryway, we see Panku, a white giant, sacrifice his body to create the Earth, sky, Sun and Moon, while goddess Nuwa made the first human from a clay figure. That's why Chinese people have a yellow complexion.

Visitors get a chance to observe how the first emperor Qin Shi Huang built the Great Wall of China and the mausoleum of Terracotta Warriors, while the Three Kingdoms room is designed to resemble a mini 4D theatre, where visitors can imagine themselves taking part in the Battle of Red Cliff.

Coming back to the present day, our journey came to a conclusion at Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, which was built in the early Ayutthaya period and was restored during the Rattanakosin era. The ruins of the ancient stupa compound were found there, and it is possible that Somdej Phra Borom Rachatirat II (Chao Sam Phraya) or Somdej Phra Nakarintrathirat constructed it. The Fine Arts Department included it in the list of important historical sites in 1935, before the archaic structures were repaired and the surroundings were enhanced in 2012.

Travel info

• The Buffalo Village is at 222 Suphan Buri-Chai Nat Road, Sri Prachan district, Suphan Buri. It's open daily from 9am to 6pm. To find out more, call 081-358-7347-8 or visit buffalovillages.com.
• The Descendants Of The Chinese Dragon Museum is on Luang Han Road, Suphan Buri. It's open Wednesday to Sunday from 10am to 4pm. Admission is 99 baht. To find out more, call 035-526-212.