Indigo-dyed fabrics are synonymous with the northeastern province of Sakon Nakhon and one of the province's weaving groups came under the spotlight when it was selected to showcase national wisdom at the 29th Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (Apec) summit in Bangkok last month.
Delegates and the media alike were fascinated by the creativity of the Donkoi indigo weaving group based in Phanna Nikhom who share their precious skills in the intricate process of dyeing and weaving.
"I was so excited and felt so much joy," said Thawil Upasi, the 67-year-old weaver who founded the Donkoi indigo weaving group, of the overwhelming response the group received.
Ban Donkoi's journey to recognition began on Nov 15, 2020 when Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya visited the community to observe the group's weaving and indigo dyeing activity.
Ban Donkoi's products that were part of the province's exhibition caught the attention of the princess who is interested in traditional Thai fabrics and determined to keep this tangible art alive and help those who create it make a living out of their crafts.
"When the princess arrived at Khun Saengdao's house [the group's deputy head], she walked straight to a traditional thread-winding machine and worked on it. I remember her saying she can do it and that she accompanied her grandmother on her many trips," said Ms Thawil.
The princess' grandmother, Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother, is widely known as the patroness of Thai crafts and fabrics and has helped revive and popularise traditional Thai textiles.
HRH Princess Sirivannavari also experimented with indigo dyeing and weaving with local weavers and advised the group to dye the yarns in lighter blue, according to Ms Thawil. She also stressed the use of natural dyes.
Local weavers are accustomed to dyeing their products in dark blues. Colours will fade as dyes disappear from clothing fibres, so weavers prefer dark blue to make the clothes last longer.
HRH Princess Sirivannavari also advised the group to use other natural colours to appeal to a wider group of customers, but the emphasis was on the use of light colour, said Ms Thawil.
FOUNDATIONS OF SILK: Villagers in Nakhon Phanom's Na Wa district show how to boil yellow silkworm cocoons to make silk thread.
Princess' support
The princess wrapped up her visit by asking if the group would be interested in working with her.
"If I have work for you, will you be interested? I'd really love you to. Fight! Fight!" Ms Thawil quoted the princess as saying. Touched by the princess' encouragement, local weavers responded with a "yes".
In December that year, a team of officials came to the village to teach local weavers various techniques to help them refine the quality of natural dyeing to make their products marketable nationwide.
HRH Princess Sirivannavari also bestowed the royal "Khor Chaofah Sirivannavari" motif and later, the royal "Khid fabrics with Nariratana Rajakanya pattern" to weaving groups for product development.
With guidance, it did not take Donkoi weavers long to adapt and roll out products that correspond to fashion trends and modern lifestyles. The princess' visit to the community brought them blessings and fortune.
Donkoi weaving group was established in 2003 with nine founding women who were looking for additional sources of income to support their farming families.
They weighed a number of options and ended up with what they know best -- weaving that is practised by every woman in the community. It is a part of life for Phu Thai women and the skills and knowledge have been passed on from one generation to another.
Ready to peruse: Various silk products are put on display for tourists at a shop set up by the Ban Tha Ruea silk weaving group in Nakhon Phanom's Na Wa district. They are the flagship weavers of the Support Foundation of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother.
"We split the money after our first sale. We earned 16 baht each," Ms Thawil said, adding the group was not discouraged. "We kept going and the monthly income rose to 700 baht each. That was enough for our children's pocket money."
The Donkoi indigo weaving group now comprises seven community groups that use their wisdom to produce fabrics from natural fibres and dyes and have propelled local artisanship to national and global fame.
As their products find their way to a wider market, the group now earns a monthly income of 10,000 baht per head and production can't keep up with demand.
According to Nakhonsi Changkham, head of Donkoi community's occupational support group, the royal "Khor" motif and "khid fabrics with Nariratana Rajakanya pattern" are highly popular and most orders are from government officials.
"The patterns are beautiful and perfect for formal events. A four-metre cloth which costs 4,000 baht takes three days to make. It is a money spinner," said the 55-year-old weaver.
Saifon Srichompu, a 41-year-old weaver in the group, spent two weeks studying the royal motif and pattern and saw it as an opportunity for learning and practising.
"It's not too difficult for me. I think that by bestowing the motif and pattern, the princess has enabled us to practise and enhance our skills and even inspire us about designs," said Ms Saifon, who took weaving seriously two years ago.
Fully natural: Ban Tha Ruea silk weaving group in Nakhon Phanom's Na Wa district now uses natural colour dyes for their silk products to appeal to their customers.
Reviving hopes
HRH Princess Sirivannavari has been a support to local weavers across the country. Among those who were given opportunities are weaving groups in Nakhon Phanom's Na Wa district.
Weerasak Matchaiden, a young weaver of the Ban Tha Ruea silk weaving group, said the princess brought back to life silk cloth weaving after it suffered a sharp drop in demand during the Covid-19 pandemic.
Silk weaving was a source of steady income for local artisans whose businesses came to a halt after the coronavirus outbreak. "We were at our wits' end," said the 23-year-old weaver.
Then HRH Princess Sirivannavari visited Wat That Prasit in Na Wa district, which houses the first weaving group of the Support Foundation of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit of Thailand, on Jan 23.
In honour of the anniversary of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother's 90th birthday this year and marking the 50th anniversary of the royally-initiated project to promote supplementary occupations, the princess is determined to revive workmanship and bring sustainability to the community.
Her initiative has saved the entire community, according to Mr Weerasak.
"She had only one request...that we drop the use of chemical dyes. Only natural dyes are used and new colour schemes of the natural dyes are developed to be more contemporary. That's the only thing she asked," he said.
The princess' emphasis on the use of natural colours has prompted local weavers in Na Wa district to gather knowledge about natural dyes which are derived from various plants and methods of using plant dyes.
"Locals use natural-dyed fabrics for their own use because they are non-allergenic and have special properties of keeping the body cool.
"Synthetic dyes are used in commercial weaving because it is what the market wants. There is no colour bleed with chemical dyes, so many weaving groups are used to it," said Jirapa Madming-ngao, 49-year-old deputy head of Ban Tha Ruea silk weaving group.
Motivated by HRH Princess Sirivannavari's advice about self-reliance in the fabric production process, weaving groups in the district began producing silk cloth from scratch. They grow mulberries, raise silkworms for their silk threads and grow plants for natural dyes.
Working with specialists on natural colours and weaving techniques sent to aid them by the princess, local weavers have created an array of silk products and bring home 20,000 baht each on average per month.
Mr Weerasak echoed Ms Saifon's opinions that the royal motif and pattern serve to inspire local weavers to make their own iterations.
"She wants us to improve skills and to create. We're not required to strictly follow the pattern. We have the freedom to create. And the 'Khor Chaofah' motif, which is characterised by the letter 'S' is, for me, a symbol of stepping forward. She has revived us," he said.
CRAFTING INDIGO: A villager at Ban Donkoi in Sakon Nakhon's Phanna Nikhom district shows how to make indigo-dyed fabrics.
A better quality of life
Na Wa arts and crafts group was established in 1972 following the initiative of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother who accompanied His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej The Great on his visits to rural villages and was impressed by the artistry in hand-woven fabrics presented to her as gifts by locals.
During that time there were communist insurgent attacks in the Northeast but their Majesties were undeterred. During the royal visit in Na Wa district, local weavers presented to The Queen Mother a handwoven silk cloth.
"I remember it clearly as she told me the cloth was beautiful," said Wongduean Udomdechawet, 84, who presented the silk with a pineapple pattern to The Queen Mother.
Later, officials and weaving specialists came to the community and the silk weaving group, the very first, under the Support Foundation, was formed. The weaving community grew and their silk products made their way to the Western market and became a source of economic strength for the community.
Support is short for the Foundation for the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and Related Techniques Under the Royal Patronage of Her Majesty the Queen which has been prompting preservation of indigenous fabric production and textile arts for five decades.
"Their Majesties gave us a job, an occupation. When we ran into problems, they were there to help. And now the princess is carrying on her grandmother's work and it gives people here joy and encouragement," she said.
Donkoi Model
Thanks to their success, the Donkoi indigo weaving group is turning into a national model for fabric quality development where weaving activities are environmentally friendly and those making the fabrics can achieve a sustainable livelihood.
In Ban Donkoi, a learning centre known as Donkoi Vijjalai has been set up to pass on knowledge and skills about indigo dyeing and weaving. But it is also designed to work on strengthening sustainability in line with the princess' concept of a "sustainable village".
Local villagers are urged to adopt His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej The Great's sufficiency economy by growing their own indigo trees and other plants to ensure a steady supply of natural dyes for their products and setting up support groups to market and promote their products.
They are also encouraged to follow the guidance of Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn on food security.
HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn has initiated the "Ban Nee Mee Rak Plook Pak Kin Aeng" (growing vegetables for your own consumption) project where people can have nutritious meals made from their own produce and create food security for the community.
Locals also are advised to apply the 3Rs -- reduce, reuse and recycle -- in their activities, which is good for the environment and can add value to by-products or waste from production process.
Ban Donkoi can be a trailblazer for the "sustainable village" concept for Sakon Nakhon and other provinces. Na Wa community, meanwhile, is also becoming a model for fabric quality development like Donkoi.
However, the Sakon Nakhon community is also invested in another mission -- restoring the wisdom of Thai fabrics so the precious knowledge will not die out, and further developing patterns inspired by local surroundings and traditions, to have a contemporary look and be marketed to all corners of the world.
Note: This is the first of a series of four stories about Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya's works and contributions to preserve and promote traditional Thai textiles nationwide on the occasion of her birthday on Jan 8.