Notorious for murky water, Klong Saen Saeb is obviously not the most beautiful canal in Bangkok. But a visit to a short section of this historical waterway may make you see it in a very different light.
The other day my ride buddies and I decided to explore the areas around the west end of Klong Saen Saeb, the canal that runs from Bangkok all the way to Bang Pa Kong River in the eastern province of Chachoengsao. The waterway was dug during the reign of King Rama III as the main supply route for troops fighting in what is now Cambodia and part of southern Vietnam in the 14-year Siamese-Vietnamese War. (In case you are curious, the lengthy military conflict ended as Siam and Vietnam finally agreed that Cambodia could be a vassal state of both kingdoms.)
Back to the west end of Klong Saen Saeb. It's the part that you see if you stand on the Hua Chang bridge between the famous Siam Discovery shopping mall and Ratchathewi BTS station, and look west. In that direction not far from the bridge lies Ban Khrua, an old community that dates back to the reign of King Rama I, who allocated the land for Cham troops and their families from Cambodia to settle down. These Muslim warriors fought alongside the Siamese army in the Songkhram Kao Thap, the last major war against Burmese invaders.
When the Ban Khrua community was set up, only five years or so after Bangkok was established as the new capital in 1782, the Saen Saeb canal was non-existent, not to mention any of the roadways we see today. Over 230 years ago (keep your imagination going) it was all wilderness, well away from the newly built city that was confined within the so-called "Rattanakosin Island" bordered by the Chao Phraya River on the west side and Klong Rop Krung, the outer city moat, on the east side.
If you look up on Google Earth, you'll see that Ban Khrua sits almost 2.5km outside the moat, connected by the Maha Nak canal that leaves the city boundary eastward from the Golden Mountain Temple. Historians believe that the people of Ban Khrua played a big role in the digging of not just Klong Maha Nak but also its extension 50 years later, which I refer to as the west end of Klong Saen Saeb.
Ban Khrua is also known for one more thing. But let's get to that later.
On the day of our ride, my friends and I did not head straight to Ban Khrua. Instead, we first made a stop at a tiny but unique place which is also near the Hua Chang Bridge but on the other side of Phaya Thai road. It's Chalerm La Park. Unlike other public parks, this place doesn't have much greenery but every day it draws crowds of visitors who come to take photos with its vibrant graffiti created by several street artists.
After checking out the park, we biked to the other side of the big road using the U-turn underneath the bridge. Then we followed the narrow concrete path that runs along Klong Saen Saeb to Ban Khrua, a few minutes' ride away.
In the Muslim enclave, we explored the network of alleyways that have been used by the residents for over two centuries, dropping by at some houses including one that doubles as a silk dyeing and weaving workshop. Decades ago, silk was a well-known product of the community, a major source of income of most households. The community served as a factory for the late American businessman Jim Thompson whose home, now a famous museum called the Jim Thompson House, is located nearby, on the south bank of the canal.
At another house we stopped by, the 72-year-old owner showed us a black-and-white photo of Jim Thompson hung on his wall. When I asked if he knew any of the villagers present in the same picture, he pointed to a little boy sitting in the front and said with a grin: "That's me."
From Ban Khrua we biked westward to Wat Borom Niwat, a temple built by King Rama IV while he was still in monkhood before ascending to the throne. The beautiful temple by Klong Saen Saeb boasts several works of art in many forms. The most interesting pieces are the murals in the prayer hall painted by Khrua In-khong, a famous artist monk of the time who was a pioneer in using Western techniques for Thai paintings. At Wat Borom Niwat, you can clearly see Western influences in his works.
From the temple, we rode past National Stadium which was built on the site that was once the palace of Crown Prince Maha Vajirunhis, the eldest son of King Rama V. He died at the age of 17. The title was given to his brother Prince Maha Vajiravudh who later became King Rama VI.
Our final destination of the day was Chulalongkorn University Centenary Park, the only one in Bangkok that comes with a hill. Bicycles are not allowed in the new park but you can lock it and leave it at the entrance. A view of the Bangkok cityscape from the top of the man-made hill was one of the best.
By now I hope you find something nice about Klong Saen Saeb. Who knows, if you get to see the area with your own eyes, you might find even more of its charms than my friends and I did.
Well, see you here again soon. Until then, if you have questions, news or biking insights you wish to share, please feel free to send an email to pongpetm@bangkokpost.co.th or go to Freewheel Bangkok community page on Facebook.
Pongpet Mekloy is the Bangkok Post's travel editor and a mountain bike freak.
Ban Khrua and nearby areas
GPS coordinates:
Ban Khrua Nueau pier: 13°44'58.87" N 100°31'39.28" E
Parking lot (Soi Chula 12): 13°44'35.91" N 100°31'32.48" E
Trail condition: Roads and alleys.
Distance: About 5km.
Getting there: There are a variety of routes you can take to reach the alleys of Ban Khrua. The most convenient, in my opinion, is either via the canalside pathway from Hua Chang bridge just south of Ratchathewi BTS station, or via Kasemsan 3, a stone's throw from the National Stadium station.
Parking: We left the car at the big parking lot on Chula 12 (the lane whose east end runs between MBK and Chulalongkorn University to meet Phaya Thai road). Of course, there are other options in adjacent areas. But this was convenient for us and it's not expensive.
Food & drinks: A few small shops and food stalls can be found in Ban Khrua but outside of the community you have tons of choices.
What your family can enjoy while waiting: Siam shopping district is just nearby. Your folks sure know what to do there.
Accommodation: Actually, you don't need this. But in case you wish to spend the night in the heart of the city just for fun, check out online booking apps or websites for the hidden gems in the area between Phetchaburi Road north of Ban Khrua and Rama IV road south of Chula Centenary Park.
