Bangkok was once home to many artisan communities, each known for a particular art or craft, but there's been a sharp decline in the number of such neighbourhoods lately.
Three communities in Bangkok Noi district _ Ban Matoom, Ban Khao Mao and Ban Bu _ are on the verge of losing the skills they are famous for _ Ban Matoom for making sweetened bael fruit, Ban Khao Mao for making khao mao (pounded rice grains used to make a variety of snacks) and Ban Bu for making khan long hin, or stone-polished bronze-ware, an art traceable to the Ayutthaya period.
And their neighbouring district, Ban Chang Lo, unfortunately is no longer a centre for moulding Buddha statues.
The four communities, on Thon Buri side of the Chao Phraya River, and nearby cultural attractions, such as Wat Suwannaram with one of Thailand's finest mural paintings, can easily be explored in a day on foot.
This cultural walking programme was introduced by the Tourism Society Network on its recent tour entitled "Visiting Houses of Intellect and the Cultural Heritage of Bangkok Noi Residents".
Bangkok Noi sits on the western bank of the Chao Phraya. During the Ayutthaya period, the Thon Buri we know today was a small riverside community that went by the name of Bangkok.
The name is believed to have evolved from "Bang Koh", meaning an island, or from the numerous makok nam, or hog plum, growing there. Sitting on a major transportation route, it was a transit point for goods as it was close to the estuary that connects the river to the sea.
Dating to the Ayutthaya period, Ban Bu is an ancient community by the Bangkok Noi Canal. A group of craftsmen who fled the war in Ayutthaya in 1767 settled there and continued their ancient art of making khan long hin , stone-polished bronzeware. The art requires expertise and many procedures mixing copper and tin to the ratio of 7:2, beating it into metal plates with hammers, forming the plate into desired shapes, smoothing the uneven edges and polishing the surface. In the past, every family here madekhan long hin for a living. However, the difficulties of making the bronzeware and training new craftsmen have caused younger generations to switch to other occupations. Today, the Jiam Sangsajja bronze factory is Thailand’s sole maker of khan long hin. It uses the original methods to produce modern-style items such as plates, salad bowls, fruit bowls and trays, instead of sticking to only traditional-style bowls.
In 1433 during the reign of King Chao Sam Phraya of Ayutthaya, this area became a tariff collection point. It grew rapidly after the Bang Kruai canal was built to connect Bangkok and Bang Kruai during the reign of King Maha Chakkraphat, also of Ayutthaya, in 1538.
Later in 1557, the king made the community a city named Muang Thon Buri Sri Maha Samut tasked with collecting tariffs and also to guard Ayutthaya against invaders who came from the south.
Thon Buri gained more importance, and eventually after the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767 became a new capital during the reign of King Taksin the Great (1767-1782) due to its strategic location and many existing fortresses and temples.
From the late Thon Buri to Rattanakosin period, the Thon Buri area boasted residences of royals and bureaucrats, markets, greenery, rice fields and fruit orchards.
The recent trip to the four Thon Buri communities began at Ban Matoom in Soi Arun Amarin 23, opposite the Naval Dockyard. For generations, people here have earned a living by making sweetened and dried bael fruit.
Sweetened bael from Ban Matoom is known for its unique, soft juicy texture, honey colour and sweet fresh taste without the use of preservatives. However, only four families still make the fruit, unlike in the past when all families in the alley made the treat.
The best time for visiting Ban Matoom is from July to April when the bael fruit is ripe.
Outside the bael harvest season, people can still buy dried bael fruit, bael fruit tea and sweetened pomelo peels.
Walking north for about 10 minutes from Ban Matoom, you will reach Ban Chang Lo Community, which was famous for moulding and making Buddha images. However, the making of Buddha images is in the past after a pollution control regulation in 1992 forced all craftsmen to move elsewhere, mostly to Nakhon Pathom's Phutthamonthon area.
Still, a few families run offices for customers to place orders.
Strolling north and then west for another 20 minutes, you will find Ban Khao Mao in a small alley beside Wat Sutthawas on Issaraphap Road. There is a local museum that tells of traditional ways of living and occupations, especially the making of Thai desserts from khao mao, or pounded young green rice. In this alley, a few families still make and sell rare desserts like khao mao mee (fried crispy young rice) and kalamae med (rice toffee).
The next destination is Wat Suwannaram in Soi Charan Sanitwong 32 to worship Luang Phor Sassada, a Buddha statue of the Sukhothai period, and cherish splendid murals, especially one depicting the Lord Buddha visiting his mother in heaven.
Walking east along the Bangkok Noi Canal for less than 10 minutes from the temple, you will arrive in Ban Bu Community. It is the country's only remaining maker of the khan long hin, or stone-polished bronzeware, an ancient craft passed down for generations since the Ayutthaya period.
On the way, you will find the 90-year-old Wat Thong Market and Bangkok Noi Railway Station's Thon Buri Locomotive Storage Centre where several locomotives dating to World War II are kept. If you stroll across the railway, you will find Wat Amarin and Siriraj Hospital, one of Thailand's oldest hospitals.
Rapeepat Ketkosol, co-ordinator of the Tourism Society Network, hopes that community tourism raises public awareness of local communities' intellectual aspects.
''We are trying to make cultural tourism become a part of learning and curricula. We have been promoting in-depth tourism and this has begun to interest entrepreneurs and educational institutes,'' he said.
According to him, Rajabhat Suan Dusit University and St John University asked the network to help work out with cultural tourism routes, while the Tourism Authority of Thailand wants information on community tourism to be included in its handbooks.
Wat Suwannaram Ratchaworawihan is by the Bangkok Noi Canal, and was built during the Ayutthaya period. Formerly called Wat Thong, it was where Myanmar war prisoners from Bang Kaew Camp were executed during the reign of King Taksin the Great. It was demolished and rebuilt on the order of King Rama I before being restored and renamed Wat Suwannaram during the reign of King Rama III. It served as the royal cremation ground for members of the Royal family and senior officials until the reign of King Rama V. Its ancient boat-shaped ubosot (ordination hall) is the most famous. Gilded angels (theppanom ) stand on the pediments. The figure of the god Vishnu riding Garuda is the art of the Ayutthaya period. Inside the hall are murals by Master Thongyu (Luang Vijitjessada) and Master Kongpae, famous artists in the Third Reign. Both artists had entered several other painting duels at Wat Bang Yi Khan, Wat Daowadung and the Temple of Dawn, or Wat Arun, but the murals there either faded or were wrongly restored. Only this temple has the artists’ remaining murals in a good condition — Master Thongyu’s painting of Nemiraja Jataka, one of the Lord Buddha’s last 10 lives, and Master Kongpae’s mural of Mahosoth Jataka. The principal Buddha image named Phra Sardsada is in the posture of subduing the Mara and the art of the Sukhothai period. The image is believed to have the power to fulfil any wishes and solved trouble for petitioners, especially those who offer to perform the wing ma (horse riding) in return. To wing ma, people must run around the ubosot three times by riding on a horse made of a banana tree, and must neigh loudly. However, in present times people opt for wearing a pha khao ma instead of riding on a banana tree horse. One of several important religious ceremonies at Ban Bu is the takbart thewo ceremony on the final day of Buddhist Lent. Villagers will offer food, especially khao tom look yone (a savoury snack made of glutinous rice, wrapped in a banana leaf, tied with string and steamed), to Buddhist monks as they walk out of the ubosot.
Ban Chang Lo is adjacent to Phran Nok Road to the north and Soi Issaraphap 44 to the south. The area was full of fruit orchards and accessible by canals linked to the Chao Phraya River near Wat Rakhang. Each family had a traditional-style house on a large plot of land since the making of Buddha statues requires a lot of space. Ancestors of the Ban Chang Lo residents earned their living by making Buddha statues in Ayutthaya. According to community leader Ratchatawat Ratchathanawin, Ban Chang Lo is more than 200 years old. It was established by royal palace artisans who migrated from Ayutthaya to Thon Buri during the Thon Buri period. They settled down next to the wall of Thon Buri Palace. During the Thon Buri and early Rattanakosin periods, they produced weapons such as swords, guns and canon for the army. One of their masterpieces is a canon named Phra Piroon, now on display at the National Museum, Bangkok. They started to focus on making Buddha statues during the Second and Third reigns when both kings built and restored many temples. For centuries, the people here have made Buddha images using different skills like sculpting, making moulds, mixing gold, and polishing and decorating with gold lacquer and mirrors. Each family has a different skill and usually works together with their neighbours to complete each task. They used clay moulds until Prof Silpa Bhirasri, the Father of Thai Modern Art, introduced plaster moulds, which can be reused up to eight times. Famous artisans from this community included Phra Thep Rojjana (Sin Patimapakorn, chief of royal palace artisans in the Fifth Reign) and National Artist Pimarn Moonpramook. Around 1992, Ban Chang Lo was declared an air pollutioncontrolled zone, so all the moulding factories had to close down. A majority of the craftsmen moved elsewhere and some of them gave up their occupation. Only a few families remain here. One of their masterpieces is a huge Buddha Godom statue at Wat Phai Rong Woa, Suphan Buri, made by Krasuay Phungpreeda of Ban Jitpatima Residence.
HOW TO MAKE A BUDDHA IMAGE
1. Sculpt a mould.
2. Add three tiers of soil to the mould.
3. Add beeswax and wait until the wax melts and flows out of the mould.
4. Place the mould on the ground.
5. Pour the mixture of gold into the mould.
6. Remove the statue from the mould and add details.
The Thon Buri Locomotive Storage Centre is between Ban Bu Community and Wat Amarintraram near Siriraj Hospital. It was part of the Bangkok Noi Railway Station, which was built during the reign of King Rama V. Its original building was destroyed by a bomb during World War II and was rebuilt in a different style. It houses several steam locomotives, some of which are more than 50 years old and still serve as special trains on important occasions for the State Railway of Thailand.
In the past, the male residents of Ban Bu Community practiced martial arts called krabi krabong to prepare for wars. At present, only one of the community’s several martial arts schools survives — the Krabi Krabong School of Teacher Tong, or Boontherd Buathognkham. The school teaches techniques passed down from Muslim soldiers in King Taksin the Great’s army. The founder was Boontherd’s great-grandfather Thongyu Wajasanoh. All postures are beautiful and unique, moulded on those in royal chronicles and Thai literature, such as the Ramakien and Sang Thong . Alcohol and pork are banned from all ceremonies and activities related to the school. The school still has a number of local boys and men as its students.
In 1522, King Chai Rachathirat of Ayutthaya had an area at the narrowest point of the Bangkok Yai Canal dug to ease water transport because the Chao Phraya River meandered so much. That area spans from the mouth of the Bangkok Noi Canal to the mouth of the Bangkok Yai Canal, and has become part of the Chao Phraya River ranging from Bangkok Noi Railway Station to the Temple of Dawn or Wat Arun. The original part of the Chao Phraya River became narrower and has been called the Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai canals. Bangkok Noi district was just an agricultural zone with peaceful communities on both banks. Major changes followed the expansion of communities on the banks. In 1972, Bangkok on the eastern bank of the river and Thon Buri on the other side were combined. Many roads and public utilities were established in Thon Buri and Bangkok Noi developed into a large community. The orchards and rice fields were transformed to houses, factories and office buildings. Nonetheless, Bangkok Noi is still rich in arts and culture with major centuries-old temples and communities, such as Wat Suwannaram and the Ban Bu Community.
When the Bangkok Noi Canal was the main transportation route, Wat Thong Market, or Wat Suwan, was an important trading hub of the Ban Bu Community. In the past, Chinese and Thai villagers in the area and Muslims on the opposite bank of the canal sold and exchanged goods here. This century-old market has outstanding architecture, since the wooden roof structure has no beams. It is surrounded by Chinese shophouses and homes.
For centuries, people living in Trok Matoom (Soi Arun Amarin 23) have made sweetened bael fruit to sell. Peels and seeds are removed and the fruit is cut into 2.5cm-thick pieces, washed in saline water and left in lime water (calcium hydroxide) for three hours. The pieces are then boiled and sugar syrup is poured over them. They are then left to cool until the sugar crystalises. One of the four remaining sweetened bael fruit sellers at Ban Matoom, Somsri Yutthachamnan, 76, said she learned how to preserve bael fruit from her parents. In the past, all families in this alley made the sweetened fruit, but most of them had to relocate after their land lease contract expired. The sellers buy the fresh bael fruit from Sukhothai and Phichit provinces. Sweetened bael fruit is sold for 100-120 baht a kilogramme and dried fruit for 100 baht a kilogramme.
Ban Khao Mao is a 200-year-old community dating to the Thon Buri period. The ancestors of local residents were mostly court officials who lived near the Thon Buri Palace. In the past, the area was full of fruit orchards and accessible by boat. People could paddle boats from Bangkok Noi through other canals all the way to Amphawa, Samut Songkhram. Fruit farmers would take their fruits to Tha Tien Market or Wang Lang Pier by the Chao Phraya River to sell. In the past, almost every family here madekhao mao (pounded young green rice). They bought and transported rice paddies from Suphan Buri, Ayutthaya, Ang Thong, Chai Nat and Nakhon Chaisi by boat. Khao mao was a good food supply during times of war since it could be kept for a long time and became soft and edible once sprinkled with water. According to historical records, when King Taksin the Great was attempting to restore Siam’s independence in 1767, the king brought khao mao from Ban Khao Mao in present-day Uthai district, Ayutthaya, for his troops. At Ban Khao Mao, locals also make desserts called kalamae med and khao niew daeng . Kalamae med, made from glutinous rice, not flour, is a rare dessert
Ban Khao Mao Museum on Issaraphap Road displays tools, kitchenware and boats, which reflect traditional ways of living, such as how to make khao mao. The museum opens Monday-Friday from 8.30am- 4.30pm. Admission is free. Call 085-561-3910.
Apart from Jiam Sangsajja Khan Long Hin factory, Ban Bu Community has Udom Khanhiran’s factory, which makes a stainless steel version of khan long hin . The factory has changed the material from stone-polished bronze to stainless steel and omitted some procedures. Its products are cheaper than khan long hin and popular as export goods.
HOW TO GET THERE
Take a ferry from Tha Chang Pier near the Grand Palace across the Chao Phraya River to Wat Rakhang Pier. Start your walking trip by strolling from Wat Rakhang to Soi Arun Amarin 23 (Trok Matoom) and then following directions as stated in the map.
For more information about Bangkok Noi district in Thai, visit http://203.155.220.217/bangkoknoi/aboutbangnoi/aboutbangkoknoi.htm.
