Started with nothing but lush Lanna (northern Thai) recipes and starry-eyed optimism six years ago, KIN by Eats Payao has bootstrapped and hopscotched its way via K-Village, Chan Road, Nanglinchi soi 8 then 3, Yen Akart, and now Tivoli Hotel on Sri Bumpen, with occasional popup sortés to Small’s Bar, to quasi cult status.
Its knowing following from as far afield as Samut Prakan and Lad Prao swing by for regular infusions of khaosoi (northern-style curry noodles), sour-spicy gaeng hang lay (pork belly curry), and recently added Singaporean dishes (makes sense with Singapore and Malaysia embassies in the ‘hood), plus Thai-inspired cocktails. Not to mention cool music and a laid-back vibe instilled by Khae and Gav, the Thai-Singapore couple with fashion and graphic design creds besides foodie fetishes behind it.
The latest iteration, ignited in September, upsells serial successes with fewer tables (now 40 seats), smaller kitchens, less space for kids and challenging parking but boosted by delivery apps.
The DNA of previous incarnations is evident in inverted scarlet Chiang Mai mulberry paper parasols arrayed as ceiling lampshades. Gushing walls and khon artefacts surround angular upholstered chairs and tables set with natural cotton. The home style bar belies the fulsome stream of ethnic and etc beverages that flows forth, especially Friday and Saturday.
The Lanna recipes date back three generations. However, much graft has been excised with a modern smoker etc. The Singapore recipes are from Gav’s mum and dad. Produce is sourced from Khae’s family farm, royal projects and a friendly forager. Ethnic main ingredients are often substituted with premium produce.
Salad Pak Baan (230+), chef’s salad, is a rustic bouquet of vegetal matter blended with tangy fish pickle, kaffir lime and olive oil dressing. There’s char-grilled baby corn, radish, cherry tomato, ochre, string beans, red cabbage, cotton flowers and more.
Larb Tuna Tartare (280+) is self-explanatory, though still a delightful surprise seasoned with makawan pepper crumble and yummy bell pepper, coconut and vinegar jam.
Heart-warming Gaeng Om (250+) features tender Khon Kaen beef shank slow-cooked in an ambrosial beef, galangal, makawan, sun-dried salt and shrimp paste broth. With the herbs removed before serving everything is edible. Equally palatable is Jin Lai Neung (280+), steamed garlic-oil rubbed beef shank with galangal chili dip.
The most-ordered dish is delish chicken, beef or prawn khaosoi (160/220/250+). With chili, cumin, lemongrass and black cardamom, the addictive soup is thicker, spicier, less sweet and more coconutty than Chiang Mai style. House-made egg noodles are eggier and smoother in their wet form, translating into a superior frisson of crispened noodles. The chili-fried then braised beef and chicken numbers are particularly toothsome. There’s also a mean Gaeng Hanglay (230+) northern Thai pork sweet & sour and spicy curry.
Standouts on the Singapore side include: Nasi Lemak (180+), coconut infused rice served with fried chicken, egg, anchovies, peanuts, sambal chili paste and cucumber; Bak Kut Teh (B280+), and; Hainanese Chicken Rice (200+), only available the last weekend of each month.
Everything that can be made in-house is, including pastes, noodles and even Sai Oua (180+) northern Thai sausages. For something fusion, Sai Oua Pasta (180+) sounds intriguing.
Though the opening hours (Tues-Sun 11.30-15.00 hours, 18.00-22.30 hours, bar open till late) are accommodating, you want to avoid rush hour along these single-lane back roads unless in the vicinity. Come early or late, figure a 10-minute walk from Lumpini MRT or count on those apps. Thursday taco night with khao soy, sai oua and other fillings calls for extra intrepidness. Weekends, everyone’s in their element.
- KIN by Eats Payo
- Tel. 0832626142
- Line: eats.payao
- (DELIVERY AVAILABLE)
- www.facebook.com/eatspayao
