Worth the effort
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Worth the effort

First it was MSG; now it's flavoured powder and cubes. But making real soup stock reaps dividends that return on the investment of time

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Worth the effort
Fish porridge with fish stock.

Those who can cook may have received tips from gurus or books, but to be a good cook you need regular practice to maintain consistency and improve taste. This is a basic rule cooks have always adhered to.

Around 50 years ago, a laboratory-made flavour enhancer arrived on the scene. Monosodium glutamate, more widely known as MSG, was introduced as a magical seasoning that makes food more delicious. MSG was applied in only some dishes in the beginning but spread to almost every dish later on.

Initially, MSG was believed to enhance the flavour of dishes with soup. Therefore, at first it was most commonly used in khao tom dishes (porridge) such as khao tom pla jalamed (porridge with snapper), khao tom pu (porridge with crab), khao tom moo sap (porridge with minced pork) and khao tom pla tu sod (porridge with mackerel). MSG was not yet put in stir-fried dishes, curry, tom yum, hor mok (steamed fish cake in coconut milk) or tod maan pla (fish cake).

Not long after, MSG had a place in almost every single dish. A noodle shop would have a jar at hand and add a striking amount in each noodle bowl. Raan aharn taam sang (cooked-to-order shops) added a lot of it with every dish: stir-fried sweet basil with meat, fried rice, pad Thai, rad na (fried-rice noodle with gravy sauce), just to name a few. Perhaps the only dish made without MSG was fried egg. Isan food shops also used considerable amount in dishes such as larb, som tam and gaeng oom. Even sun-dried pork and sun-dried beef were not spared MSG.

Kuay jab, or rice noodle in clear soup.

Then, the use of MSG was challenged by the notion that it could have adverse effects on consumers. The effects include nausea, dizziness, headache, flushing, and numbness to muscle and tongue. Although the symptoms only occur to those allergic to it, MSG had become a monster in people's perception. Most eaters would order food with no MSG. The situation had turned upside down. From being hailed as a "magical powder", it was deemed poisonous by the general public. So much so that many food shops had signs out front reading: "No MSG Used Here."

While MSG has ­declined in popularity, a new product has been developed to meet market demand for food seasoning. It is a soup stock in the format of powder and cubes. The instant soup stock is available in pork and chicken flavours. The product is widely advertised in all kinds of media for its magical effects, recommended for all kinds of cooking.

There is no doubt that the cube provides an absolute convenience to people who have little time to cook, especially for the tom (boiled) and pad (stir-fried) dishes. But be warned that the convenience will come in exchange for a typical taste. Your gaeng jued mara (bitter gourd stuffed with minced pork), gaeng jued kai jeaw (fried egg soup) with onion, fried kale with salted fish, or deep-fried marinated pork can yield similar tastes.

Noodles with soup made from pork bone. Suthon Sukphisit

However, not all dishes need the magic of instant soup stock. Tom yum is delicious from the meat boiled with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaf and parsley, and seasoned for salty, spicy and sour taste. Other dishes, like gaeng pla duk (cat fish curry), hor mok and yum hua plee (banana flower salad) also need no seasoning powder to enhance their flavour.

While many depend on instant soup stock, others don't. Many families have enough time to prepare dishes for themselves. Some families have elderly members, young children or ailing members who need healthy diets. A crucial ingredient to making soup dishes tasty is freshly made soup stock, which can be prepared by boiling and simmering either pork bone, chicken bone, fish head and bone, or vegetable for a certain period of time. It is not difficult to prepare. If you cannot consult a cooking expert, find recipes from books or just Google for them.

Preparing your own soup stock is worth the effort. It is easy to find raw materials, simple to make and costing very little. Pork bone, chicken bone, fish bone and vegetables can be bought in any market. They make a natural, delicious and healthy stock.

Steamed chicken with soup.

Soup stock made from different kinds of material is suitable for cooking many different dishes. For example, pork-soup stock is perfect for making gaeng jued and pork porridge. Chicken stock is best for making chicken porridge and stir-fired vegetables. Fish stock is of course good for making fish porridge, while vegetable-soup stock is most recommended for preparing food for babies and small children.

These are only some examples of how soup stock is used. It is all up to individuals to apply in cooking. In sum, experiences and continuing practice will lead you to discover special methods and secret tips to making your food taste most pleasurable.

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