One good thing about the real estate bubble and crash (oh yes it is!) is the renters' market it creates for restaurant entrepreneurs. And so long as people still have to eat, and indeed eat out, another good thing Bangkok's got going on is its wealth of culinary talent, both indigenous and imported.
Put these two boons together and you come up with the irresistible recipe for providing beleaguered Bangkokians a little light relief that is Keller.
It was with a great sense of anticipation therefore that we arrived to try it out in early March.
The inquisition started well. Tucked inside Suan Plu Soi 2 (first left from Sathorn), the restaurant occupies a radiant limoncello yellow double-fronted neo-colonial style wedding cake of a manse seated on a high podium like something from a hi-so TV soap.
Out front a flagged forecourt provides the parking that is otherwise scarce in this increasingly boho neck of the Bangkok woods.
Skipping up ten steps to be greeted by a svelte hostess in evening attire there is a sense of rising socially as well as literally.
Inside the glass frontage, the design is elegant, inviting, playful. The high-ceiling hall with its grand staircase hosts a lounge bar with an abstract light fixture suspended above velvet sofas.
The dining room, off right, is a luxe parlour etched in blush tones of pink champagne, cream, chocolate and gold. Geometric chrome and glass room dividers blend velour covered banquettes, blond wooden table tops and mid-century pendant lamps.
The only artwork is an original aerial view etching of "Nong Nueng", the first psychedelic turtle in a subliminal branding exercise by the developer, Turtle 23.
The "culinary laboratory" is semi-open with wait staff sashaying through a swing door. A private room seats up to 14.
The key ingredient, though, is eponymous master chef-partner Mirco Keller. He started out in his native Germany under Tim Raue, arriving in Asia in 2010 and spending eight years earning The Water Library at Chamchuri Square Michelin Plate kudos.
Head chef Miti Horwongsakul is an Oriental Hotel Apprenticeship graduate who cooked at Le Normandie before joining Keller at Water Library.
Restaurant Manager-Sommelier Axel Braukmann is a genial former F&B Director at Dhara Dhevi Resort & Spa.
Mirco labels his food deliberately loosely as "Contemporary European – drawing on the past, the present and what we can imagine."
Rooted in tradition and classic techniques, the cuisine is yet surprising.
Go for the virtuoso 4-course "Keller Signature Journey" tasting menu (2,700++) with two choices per course or pick from the a la carte menu offering larger renditions of the tasting dishes plus others.
The tasting menu is framed with a cluster of pour commencers, a pre-dessert and petits fours.
Our journey began with "kratong tong", crispy rice baskets filled with beetroot gel topped with curry mayo and studded with roast corn, appearing like custard tarts marooned on a pebble beach.
Amuse bouche II was Toast Hawaii stuffed with burrata, pancetta, and pickled pineapple and topped with tart cherry gel cutting the umami artisanal cheesiness.
Next came a foaming broth of straw, shitake and truffle mushrooms, wonderfully earthy and creamy.
Having opted for the wine pairing, we were poured a glass of German Riesling from a very old winery that teased out more layers of flavours.
Next to arrive were oven-fresh bread rolls (sauerkraut/bacon and rustic), accompanied with wickedly delicious chicken liver pâté and butter blended with ichiban Japanese seaweed.
First appetizer choices came in meat and fish form. There was Black Wagyu Beef Tartare with charred eggplant encased in bell pepper-cornmeal Hollandaise, topped with capers, and served with buttery-crunchy toast. An Austrian Sauvignon blanc provided the perfect compliment.
Appetizer II offered an epicurean Charred Gallician Octopus tentacle set in a sea of red wine butter sauce, topped with crunchy pork crackling and bordered by polenta cakes topped with celeriac puree. Or Berliner Senfei a German classic of creamy mashed potato espuma, onsen duck egg in mustard sauce with a dollop of Oscietra caviar lending a decadent saltiness.
A palate cleanser comprising crema Catalana, red berry puree, and lemon jelly did indeed press reset.
Main course choices included a hunk of Atlantic Cod Fish accompanied with spinach, edamame beans and tomato, spiked with pancetta under thyme velouté. Equally indulgent was Charred Nakornpathom Pork Jowl with yellow chive puree, mango, pork marrow and organic greenery, succulent, earthy and exceptionally delectable.
The desserts fulfilled the promise of their forerunners. Keller's Cheesecake with butter cream, and pineapple, oatmeal and caramel sorbet brought smiles. As did chocolate ice cream, passionfruit, chocolate ganache, brownie, hazelnut gel and hazelnut milk. The sweet French wine did the chocolate proud.
The final culinary crescendo comprised petits fours of coffee and caramel crunch, mango gummy bears, and milk chocolates filled with sesame and truffle.
The a la carte (for tables of 5 guests or less) (590-790) adds to the above possibilities Canadian Scallops Risotto, "Duck Duck Duck" and Pan-Seared Foie Gras. Main courses (890-1490) exceed with Wagyu Tenderloin, Yarra Valley Lamb, Canadian Lobster, and Chilean Sea Bass. Desserts (330-450) offer German Pancake with Japanese strawberries and "Guava" with nougat in addition.
The drinks menu is replete with reinvented classics. Keller Sour, a twist on Mirco's favourite drink, whiskey sour, muddles pineapple juice, lime and Mekhong, sipped through egg white foam. Or try Axel's raspberry puree, mango juice, rosemary syrup, soused with Fentiman's Yusu Tonic.
Operating in partnership with Cloud Wine, Keller's Wine Room stocks over 100 mainly Old World wines. Purchases can be enjoyed with dinner without corkage.
It says on the menu that Mirco just wants to be thought of as a good chef. It is impossible to think of him as anything other than exceptional.
Open
Restaurant: Wednesday–Monday, 18:00—22:00
Wine Room & Lounge: Wednesday–Monday, 17:00—22:00
Email: reservations@kellerbangkok.com
Tel: +66 (0) 2 092 7196
Facebook: @kellerbangkok
Instagram: @keller.bangkok
Website:kellerbangkok.com
