As chefs dust off their aprons and wait staff rearrange seating, the focus returns to the making and remaking of menus. But with COVID-19 having left its impenetrable mark, new culinary styles and tastes have manifested. Whether emotionally charged by new-found inspiration, adapting to 'new normal' comforts or driven to provocation in order to stand out – and stay in business – the effect on the gastronomy scene can be recognised in some leading independent restaurants' most poignant new dishes. Here are 14 of the most outstanding items, tried and tested, that define the new era of COVID-19 pandemic-informed gastronomy in Bangkok.
The 'Fermented Duck Sausage' @ 80 / 20 Bangkok
Find it on the Pre-monsoon Tasting Menu – (10 courses / 3,000++)
Torn between the 'Duck Sausage' and 'Flavours of Local Beef' dish, the duck – although a mere morsel – packs the most almighty punch. Napol "Joe" Jantraget and Saki Hoshino at 80 / 20 are bringing it back to familiarity with this North-Eastern Thai (Esan) inspired bite. The duck leg sausage is fermented with black sticky rice, black garlic and barley koji before being wrapped in Sato lee's batter and charcoal powder. The effect is instant; savoury, smoky, a touch gamey. It really comes down to that one perfect bite.
Writer and photographer: Samantha Proyrungtong
"Pici all'aglione" @ About Eatery
Find it on the 'About Pasta: Fresh Pasta Menu ' – (320 / dish)
There's something to be said of the authenticity of About Eatery. It is not the first to go the fresh pasta route of late but it certainly excels in making it as close to Italian fare as possible. The fresh pici pasta made in-house by Chef Gabriele Tozzo Luna has a gooey and bouncy texture and smooth cylindrical shape. This combined with the sharp and rich taste of San Marzano tomatoes, loaded with pungent garlic hits every tomato pasta craving you could ever have, and more. Simplicity made to perfection.
"BEEF" @ Cadence by Dan Bark
Find it on the Tasting Menu – (9 courses / 4,300++)
Undoubtedly the dish which connects us most to Chef Dan Bark and the one he considers closest to his Korean roots. "BEEF": Grass-fed New Zealand Ocean Beef is reminiscent of his mother's "Bansang". Dan's modern interpretation, with pickled kelp noodles, mashed potato, braised burdock root, sesame leaves and black cherry fermented in soju, is exotic in taste and exacting in technique. For one who would love to travel and try Korea food, this dish evokes that very yearning.
"Sturgeon" @ Canvas
Find it on the Tasting Menu – (18 courses / 4,500+)
The complicated patchwork of Thai ingredients of Chef's Riley's cuisine at Canvas create fantastical flavours but require a great amount of surgical precision. Like the sturgeon from Hua Hin, with its unforgettable murky and earthy flavours created by sea grapes, hausa potato, emulsion of buttermilk and green peppercorn which manages to take us deep into the river beds with historical sea creatures. Chef Riley's latest art-on-canvas approach to plating and flavours at Canvas is his boldest and most exciting yet.
"Calamaro" @ Clara
Find it on the CLARA 7 Moments or 9 Moments Tasting Menu – (7 courses / 2,680++, 9 courses / 3080++)
Chefs Christian Martena and Clara Del Corso Martena bring to Bangkok a restaurant which is ineffably sophisticated. The Calamaro dish of squid, black lemon and potato reflects such refinement but with artistic flair. Although the most understated looking dish on the menu, Calamaro, hid tons of fun and complexity beneath its white sheet. The tender squid combined with potato yogurt mousse is boosted by citrus notes and a delicate smokiness. The accompanying squid cracker adds a layer of crunch and savouriness, to complete the umami effect.
"Fresh Hokkaido sea urchin" @ Enoteca
Find it on the From Hokkaido to Dolomites Tasting Menu – (4 courses / 1,800++)
Chef Stefano Borra takes diners on a journey outside his authentic Italian fare with a creative twist by introducing Asia into the mix – Hokkaido, Japan to be precise. Stunning in appearance, a wagyu 4 / 5 beef tartare sits on crispy bread that's placed atop a spikey uni shell filled with cream uni sauce. The entire ensemble is dressed with Tobiko roe and garnished in gold powder. With these types of produce and creativity, the taste is exactly what one would expect; flavours of earth and sea with commitment to style and decadence.
"Nilgiri" @ Haoma
Find it on the Heritage | Roots | Culture Tasting Menu – (10 courses / 2,990++)
Inspired by Chef Deepanker "DK" Khosla's foraging expeditions into the hills of Nilgiri region of India as part of his culinary school training, the dish digs further into chef's ethnic roots by applying age-old techniques that encapsulate the powerful flavours of Nilgiri curry. The traditional curry is cooked in a pit with venison or goat, covered with greens and coconut on top. Typically eaten with the tender and smoky coconut meat peeled off as a complement. Chef DK's recreation with scallops to replace the tender coconut is nothing short of mind-blowing.
"Pan-seared foie gras in a lemon balm and fish sauce consommé" @ J'AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain
Find it on the Signature 8-course Tasting Menu – ( 3,700++)
It's all in the title, who would have thought foie gras with consommé and fish sauce would find its way onto French fine dining tables? Scandalous as it may sound, it may just be the most harmonious dish you will try this year. Chef Amerigo has long been integrating local organic ingredients to create uncommon flavour combinations in European cuisine, resulting in the most complex and satisfying profiles. This dish, with it's fatty, sweet, salty, zesty and umami flavours, may be the pinnacle of all his efforts and worth every spoonful.
"Saurabh" @ Karmakamet Conveyance
Find it on the APPRECIATION Tasting Menu – (9 courses / 2,900++)
The new menu at Karmakamet Conveyance is all about appreciation. Chef Jutamas "Som" Theantae soothes our nerves with on-point technique and deeply satisfying flavours that excite and titillate the senses. Silken mussels contrasted with dry-spiced herb prawn, are first to announce themselves, soon complimented by 'gujarati panki' seeped in the earthy flavours of saag paneer curry which await beneath.
The Guava @ Keller
Find it on the Keller Signature Journey Tasting Menu – (4 courses / 2,900++)
With Chef Keller finally at the helm of his own restaurant, expect an eclectic menu with a touch of German sensibilities. The Guava dessert, the most notably quirky and creative dish among all the dishes, blends German guava nougat, coconut, yoghurt and Thai aloe vera. Bursting with fresh flavours, playful textures and the unmistakable fruity flavours of guava and coconut, this dessert may make a kooky first impression but everything in the end, just works.
"Tom Som" @ Le Du
Find it on the upcoming Tasting Menu
A futuristic experience in that a) this dish is yet to be released and b) like space food, Chef ThiTid "Ton" Tassanakajohn has technically managed to concentrate an entire meal into one tiny dish. With this creation, guests are instantly transported to the beachside, enjoying a whole fish, steaming with Thai spices – a meal designed to awaken the holiday-senses. Chef Ton uses local cobia fish confit in herb oil, roasted and served with lotus root, pickled chili, ginger, a puree of yellow chili and fermented soybean. To finish, a broth of fish head and bones, seasoned with tamarind and shrimp paste is poured liberally on top.
"Kombu Cured Hake" @ MIA
Find it on the Rooms Tasting Menu – (8 courses / 2,550++)
A dish which evolved with the times, chefs Pongcharn Russell and Michelle Goh looked to replace key flavour components with local ingredients, and thankfully so. Hake fish is cured and steamed in kombu. The chefs decided to use fermented bean paste with the French fish veloute instead of imported miso, creating a fish sauce effect of sorts. The clever and sophisticated use of a fish that's commonly frozen and paired with humble chips creates one unforgettable experience.
"Claypot Prawn Curry" @ Ministry of Crab Bangkok
Find it on the a la carte menu – (Price according to weight)
A dish that not only brings people together but two different products and cultures, Ministry of Crab Bangkok has adapted its Claypot Prawn Curry recipe to incorporate local herbs, curry leaves, lemongrass and pandan leaves that grow behind the restaurant. Add half a kilo of local freshwater and black tiger prawns, then sprinkle in and integrate mixed spices shipped from Sri Lanka, bringing to Thailand a whole new wealth and dimension of flavours. The best of both worlds can be found in this family-friendly sized clay pot.
"BOILED" @ Saawaan
Find it on the Tasting Menu – (9 courses / 1,980++)
Fresh from the fishermen's lines in Ranong, Thailand, the barracudas were not sacrificed in vain. That's thanks to chef and owner Sujira "Aom" Pongmorn's boiled dish inspired by "Gaeng Som Prik Sod", from southern Thailand. Making the most of every flavourful part of the fish, this homemade fish-head yellow curry is boiled for two hours with holy basil and served with a pristine turnip ravioli, salak snake fruit, salted fish and cha-om leaves. With its deep-throat heat, the spice is first to bite, then everything else just falls into place, complimenting and counterbalancing. It's the intelligence – not just the spice – that makes it unforgettable.
Businesses mentioned.
- 80 / 20 Bangkok / www.8020bkk.com / 02 234 2822
- About Eatery / www.abouteatery.com / 092 907 2191
- Cadence / www.cadence-danbark.com / 091 713 9034
- Canvas / www.canvasbangkok.com / 099 614 1158
- Clara / www.clarabangkok.com / 095 879 62 57
- ENOTECA / www.enotecabangkok.com / 02 258 4386
- Haoma / www.haoma.dk / 02 038 5821
- J'AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain / jaime-bangkok.com / 02 119 4899
- Karmakamet Conveyance / karmakametconveyance.com / 02 004 3997
- Keller / www.kellerbangkok.com / 02 092 7196
- Le Du / www.ledubkk.com / 092 919 9969
- Mia / www.miarestaurantbkk.com / 098 862 9659
- Ministry of Crab Bangkok / www.ministryofcrab.com / 02 116 6220
- Saawaan / www.saawaan.com / 02 679 3775
Samantha Proyrungtong, an Australian born with Thai heritage, is a well-known 'foodies' entrepreneur based in Bangkok who runs her own specialty food business (VIVIN Grocery, Ekamai Complex, Tel. 080 463 5747) and marketing consulting company (Extrovert Marketing Consulting) and is founder of BangkokFoodies.com and FoodiesOfficialAsia.com.
