Thai cuisine empire takes next step
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Thai cuisine empire takes next step

After 40 years in the culinary business, Blue Elephant founder chef Nooror Somany Steppe is passing it on to the younger generation

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Thai cuisine empire takes next step
Nooror Somany Steppe. (Photos Apichit Jinakul)

When Nooror Somany Steppe, together with her husband Karl and partners Somchai Wayno and Somboon Insusri, started in 1980 a restaurant in Brussels, Belgium, little did she know that the 40-seat business would become a global representation of Thai cuisine.

Today, the name Blue Elephant is well-established not only as an eatery but also a culinary institute and household brand.

Currently, there are seven restaurants operating in Asia and Europe under the company's profile.

The company also boasts its own Thai grocery line, which is available in 35 countries in five continents. That's not to mention its thriving ventures in chilled meals, worldwide catering service, cooking schools and cookbooks.

"My life has always been very busy from the very first day we opened the restaurant," said Nooror.

"But it is my happiness. No one forces me to do what I don't want to. And that's what I tell my children whenever they complain I work too hard."

Born to a middle-class family in Chachoengsao province of Thailand, Nooror began her pursuits abroad as a student in hotel management in Brussels and also classic French cuisine in Bordeaux, France.

After her marriage, her husband, who is passionate about Thai food, suggested that they open a Thai restaurant to showcase her great cooking skills.

The culinary queen behind the long-running success of Blue Elephant restaurant empire.

"Thanks to him, it has become our life since," she said.

As a chef, to see customers enjoying her food always makes her happy and proud.

"I'll do anything to please my diners even if it means to tailor-make to each of their preferences. Flexibility and forward thinking are always my key approach to cooking."

A world traveller and keen observer of changing trends, the 60-year-old describes herself as fun-loving and open-minded.

"Don't be a full glass of water, I tell myself. Always be a learner and think outside the box," noted the originator of foie gras with tamarind sauce.

Recognised as the main force behind Blue Elephant's success, the always-hands-on grande dame, however, said she is ready to step aside.

"Now is the time for the young generation. My mind may be forever young but my body isn't. The industry needs new input and energy."

Onlookers might wonder whether the transformation will devalue the company's long-running legacy. Her answer is "no".

"Blue Elephant is not a one-woman show, and has never been. We've come to this point of success because of family support and good teamwork.

Thailand's flagship Blue Elephant restaurant in Bangkok.

Nooror's oldest son, Kim Steppe, 39, was appointed as the company's CEO two years ago. His sister Sandra, 43, helps take care of marketing. And Kris, 24, the youngest of the three siblings, helps with the brand's social media strategies.

"When I got home for a family dinner I would often say to my kids, 'Can we stop talking about work?'," she recalled, affirming that the business is in their blood.

"My daughter and sons have different interests and expertise, but just like their mom and dad, they all share the same trait of being a discerning diner."

Over the past years, besides an ever-active chef, restaurateur, entrepreneur and travelling ambassador of Thai cuisine, Nooror has most important of all been a committed mother.

"My kids have been raised in a Thai style with a focus on family dedication and gratitude. They had to help in the restaurant from a very young age. That's why I'd say they have the strongest foundation and I do trust them to take the helm.

"Raising half-blood kids isn't easy. You have to be ahead of the game to earn their respect otherwise they will not listen to you.

"They grew up very closely to me so I'm sure they've been influenced by my way of thinking and style of work."

Other than being revolutionary, diligent and considerate, a jaunty attitude is also Nooror's distinctive nature.

"Money isn't the most important thing to me. I always follow my heart and not the wealth."

Photos courtesy of Blue Elephant Cooking School & Restaurant

She recalls that she once turned down a big catering event commissioned by a world-famous billionaire simply because she didn't want to miss an opportunity to meet Miss Universe who was scheduled to come eat at her restaurant.

"Meeting with Miss Universe was an honour and a fun experience that money cannot buy."

Because of her well-known congeniality, she was several times invited to appear as a judge on TV cooking contests. But she always said she's too busy.

"The truth is that I fear to encounter a surprise ingredient, which could be exotic meat, like snake. I could see me ruining the whole show by my scream."

To the subject of culinary evolution, especially for Thai cuisine, Nooror said the trend now goes toward premium ingredients.

"Although prices are still a concern, premium Thai cuisine continues to be very popular on the world stage. More and more farang diners are now able to tell the difference between authentic quality from the sleazy counterparts.

"I always tell my kitchen crew to stick to authenticity and let first-timers familiarise with the real Thai taste.

"Thai cuisine is the best in the world because Thai people are very finicky when it comes to food. So the principle in cooking good Thai food is making sure you are pleasing the local taste buds and not tourists.

"At Blue Elephant we don't cook Thai food for the Western palate. We might substitute some ingredients but the taste profile has to be correct."

Over the years the cooking queen has penned hundreds of recipes with precise measurements and guidelines to ensure the dish would not go wrong no matter who cooks it.

"If the cuisine relies on the personal taste and on-site know-how of some individuals, the cuisine will finally die."

In order to pass on the Blue Elephant culinary heritage to the next generation, dishes have to be tried, tested and adapted over and over again before they become written recipes.

Blue Elephant's ready-made cooking mixtures, which are now easily accessible for anyone, also help ensure the authentic flavour-profile of Thai dishes.

Nooror noted the current Covid-19 pandemic might have affected her restaurant business but it does not impact the export volume and sale of her Thai grocery line.

The product line, which launched 18 years ago, includes a wide variety of sauce and seasonings, curry pastes, rice, coconut cream, herbal teas and snacks as well as non-food items such as cooking ware and fabric.

Yellow curry, green curry and the famous heirloom massaman curry pastes are the brand's all-time best sellers in Europe.

Also continuing to do well is Blue Spice, a chilled, ready-to-eat meal line established in Belgium 25 years ago.

Every wing of the Blue Elephant empire has over recent years been run by young members in the family or offspring of very close friends.

Although the children are at the forefront, Nooror said she will always be the centre of support.

"I am still the brand logo and cannot just hand it over. I will be an adviser and inspiration, who always reminds them to work with compassion, understanding and gratitude to the team."

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