From Singora to Songkhla

Formerly known as Singora, the southern province of Songkhla was once a thriving marine trading hub. Thanks to the Songkhla (Old Town) Creative District project, the region has once again sprung back to life and is giving both locals and holidaymakers the opportunity to explore its rich history.

Aiming to expand its base in the South, the Creative Economy Agency (CEA) has joined with local artists and villagers to convert this 178-year-old community into a colourful art space until Sunday where both the young and old generations can come together and share their experiences.

"From Bangkok to Chiang Mai to Khon Kaen, this is the significant step for the CEA as it expands its reach in the country's four regions. We will transform the old 222-square wah fire station into TCDC Songkhla, whose construction is expected to completed by 2022. There will be a co-working space and library where people can come and join many activities," said Atchaka Sibunruang, chairperson of Creative Economy Agency.

"We will be part of Songkhla and other neighbouring provinces and help to add creativity into the local economy and raise the value of products and services in order to improve lives and promote sustainable development. This event will give locals new opportunities in implementing their cultural assets and also allow them to add their hometown to the Unesco list of World Heritage Sites."

In recent years, the neighbourhood of Songkhla Old Town has become a popular holiday escape for Thai and Malaysian tourists, with a range of boutique hostels, chic cafes and art galleries which merge contemporaries and traditions.

Encircled by the Andaman Sea and Songkhla Lake, visitors can enjoy the tantalising culinary scene and learn the local way life while weaving their way through narrow alleys, which are home to hundreds of old shophouses.

Focusing on multicultural charms, the project will present a series of 10 interesting exhibitions on six streets, perfect for a walking tour.

Saiburi Road

The old fire station has been transformed into a temporary gallery for the exhibition "From Concept To Construction", which showcases innovative designs and will make TCDC Songkhla a new landmark.

On view are a collection of 25 models from a design contest in which Quatre Architect won the trophy with the concept of Save the Wall. The idea is to call out the value of Songkhla's former city walls that were built with Koh Yor bricks during the reign of King Rama III. To blend into the town, the bricks will be used in the three main parts of the TCDC building -- its base, ground-floor spaces and rooftop to celebrate local wisdom.

Nakhon Nok Road

The Red Rice Mill -- locally known as Hub Ho Hin -- has been taken over with the exhibition "Portrait Of Songkhla", which sheds light on the history of the province through the portraits of 76 local families, historical sites and enterprises.

It's a collaboration of the School of Photographic Arts, a.e.y. space and a local photography group called Land Bang Life Bang Phikat Songkhla, which reflects the unique way of life and beautiful culture in the age-old seaside town.

"Earlier this year, I flew from Songkhla to Bangkok to see the Portrait of Charoenkrung exhibition created by the School of Photographic Arts. As part of Bangkok Design Week 2020, it was the story of local inhabitants that presented many different dimensions to explore. I was really impressed. So, it's a good chance for us to create this photo exhibition in our hometown. I'm responsible for building a photography network and a research team to create an art space in our community," said Pakorn Rujiravilai, who runs the a.e.y space gallery.

"We have focused on the cultural legacy like traditional recipes of local sweets and delicacies that have been passed down from generation to generation but are on the verge of being forgotten. This is the message that we want to convey through family portraits."

The photo exhibition is divided into six themes -- the Roots of the People of Songkhla, the Port City of Two Seas, the Charm of Local Delicacies, Prospering with New Generations, the Artist of Singora and Wisdom of the City.

Visitors can also meet some icons like Rangsi Lim-saowapreuk, a descendant of Ministerial Marshall Khun Ratchakitkari (Junliang Lim-saowapreuk), who set up Hub Ho Hin in 1914. This rice mill was used as a Japanese medical storage facility during World War II before the Lim-saowapreuk family closed it and shifted their focus to a small ice factory and exporting para-rubber. In 1982, the site became a pier for small fishing boats and today it serves as the headquarters of the Songkhla Heritage Club.

Ratri Wanwilai opened her souvenir shop in 1981 to offer a wide range of home utensils made from natural materials such as bamboo, yan li pao, sugar palm leaves, para rubber fruits, nipa palm leaves, banana tree fibre and more.

Famous for its Hainanese pork porridge, the Koh Thai eatery is now run by Pittaya Phattharakulpong and will probably close in the future as her children have their own career path.

"I'm a professional photographer and sell a huge collection of landscape pictures on Shutterstock. I live in the community but I never captured the moments of local life at all. I realised that taking a portrait is not easy which is why our team approached all families one by one and learned about their backgrounds. We found a way to connect with them and created a relaxing atmosphere so that all family members could express their feelings. It was like we took the studio to their home," said Kanok Sulaiman, a member of Land Bang Life Bang Phikat Songkhla.

"I believe this project will strengthen the bonds between residents in the community. They will get to know each other better. Our group will also organise creative activities to use our photography skills in developing this old commercial venue in the future. We should recognise the potential of our hometown."

Yaring Alley

Created by artist Chaiyapruek Chalermpornpanit, the large menu of Last Recipe Of Songkhla is displayed on the wall of the Chinese building. This photo exhibition showcases some unique delicacies and desserts in a marriage of Thai, Chinese and Muslim cuisine. For example, Butu is a rice flour cake with palm sugar fillings and Namdao is a sausage made with pig liver and marinated with spices.

Nong Chik Alley

Baan Kao Hong houses The Soul Of Songkhla by photographer Tul Hirunyalawan. It's designed to resemble a textbook, showcasing portraits of local folks in different careers such as a tricycle taxi driver, restaurateur, local broadcaster, American researcher and artist, who used their skills and creativity in developing their hometown.

Next door is the stage to Miss Songkhla created by photographer Virunan and make-up artist Phavida Chiddaycha. The exhibition features portraits of 18 females in two versions -- the first one shows an untouched face and another is a complete makeover. The idea is to portray the beauty of women in their own way.

Nang Ngam Road

The City Pillar Shrine takes visitors back to the era of glass plate negatives. "From Singora To Songkhla" presents a rare edition of reprinted photographs of landscapes, temples, markets and historical sites, which gives visitors a chance to see how the town has changed from an old seaport to a holiday destination. There're also some pictures of villagers waiting to greet King Chulalongkorn during his journey South in 1945.

Opposite the City Pillar Shrine is Portrait Of Songkhla Family Landmark. This is the work of a.e.y space and the School of Photographic Arts using Photo Montage techniques to create a large-scale wallpaper, featuring the faces of 76 local families and making it a new meeting point in the community.

A short walk from the shrine to a.e.y space, "Songkhla (Old Town) Through Young Eyes" boasts a collection of 44 film photographs taken from the innocent view of 22 art students aged between 4 and 15. Under the concept of Colour, Line, Light and Shadow, Happiness and Songkhla, young photographers can learn how to use a classic film camera and find happiness from the surrounding.

Raman Road

The folding doors of the old FuJao Teahouse are now covered with Songkhla (Old Town) Post. Designed by a.e.y space and the School of Photographic Arts, the newspaper-inspired artwork presents special features on some families living in the community.

At the end of the art tour, visitors can check out the screening programme of "The Making Of Portrait Of Songkhla" at the Ohm Electrics shop. The behind-the-scenes video depicts the collective of professional photographers, local artists and research teams spending four months creating the Portrait of Songkhla project.

Special Exhibition

Also on view is the "Portrait Of Old Town" exhibition at the newly opened Gallery of Songkhla. Located on the second floor of Baan Khanom Thai Song-Saen shop, veteran photographer Nakhonrat Piyasirisorost showcases a collection of 36 photographs of old buildings with striking architectures that reflect Songkhla's identity.

The Songkhla (Old Town) Creative District runs until this Sunday at the Songkhla Old Town neighbourhood. Visitors can find out more details at Creative Economy Agency's Facebook page or check out the Songkhla (Old Town) Creative District's route at https://qrgo.page.link/PgY5e.