When I first learned eight months ago that chef Fae Chummongkhon was leaving the Front Room, I was heartbroken. Through her creations -- some of the most progressive yet comforting food I've ever had -- Fae introduced to Bangkok, during her 2-year residency, a truly adorable interpretation of Thai-inspired Nordic cuisine, which was, and still is, very new to the city.
The petite chef returned to her home in Denmark just before the global shutdown began as the Front Room, like every other restaurant in the dine-in industry, had to halt its services in March due to a government mandate.
While Front Room's kitchen might have lost its queen bee, the good news is that it didn't let go of its culinary dexterity and much-cherished TLC mark.
Today, the 80-seater restaurant reopens as a Thai restaurant with a fresh concept inspired by a motherly style of cooking.
All the same crew members are still there. Interestingly, they have applied their training in French cuisine to help build up a new Thai kitchen directed by consulting chef Ann Khanarak and culinary professor Niphatchanok Najpinij -- both are profound masters of Thailand's culinary heritage.
Stir-fried squid, tiger prawn and sataw beans with salty seafood oil.
For the Front Room, the pair have come up with a selection of classic and newly-concocted dishes that celebrates the eight distinctive tastes of Thai cuisine: namely, sour, sweet, nutty, salty, spicy, bitter, astringent and mild, through fresh seasonal produce.
The restaurant's 50-item menu reminds diners of what they would find in a comforting home-cooked meal: humble yet with the graceful know-how of a mother.
As a 5-star establishment, a dinner here begins with an amuse-bouche. It is a khanom gui-chai (chive dumpling) reconstructed and presented in the form of crispy paper-thin green chips. They were cleverly created and delicious indeed.
Goong phae, a popular street-side nibble of crispy deep-fried shrimp fritter, is also made into a gourmet delicacy here. The golden lace tuile-like fritter (280 baht) featured large prawns instead of tiny shrimps and a batter that's leavened with curry paste and kaffir lime leaves.
Nuea khem tom kathi or salt-cured beef cheek in coconut milk.
From the list of sour and spicy yum salad, a salad of smoked trout, caramelised pork belly, pineapple, fresh mint and coconut cream (320 baht) was a delight and came with a well-rounded combination of pungent flavours that was balanced by the contrast of coconut cream.
For a less-heavy option, a salad of shredded organic chicken breast with Vietnamese coriander (280 baht) was flavourful and pungent, however, it came without coconut milk.
There are also several mouthwatering main entrees to go with rice.
Fans of sataw must try Front Room's stir-fried squid, tiger prawn and sataw (wild nitta bean aka stink bean) with salty seafood oil (740 baht). The dish, in which fresh seafood and bright green and nutty sataw are the centre of attention, is seasoned without kapi (shrimp paste) but instead features a rich, gritty and delicious house-made XO sauce.
If I could have only one gaeng dish, the southern-style thick curry with sea bass, taro stems and cumin leaves (420 baht) would be it.
The southern-styled curry with sea bass, taro stems and cumin leaves.
The coconut-milk based yellow-hued curry proved a blast of pleasure thanks to the firm and glossy fillets of fish, spongy crunch from thinly-sliced taro stem and a deep-heated yet flavourful curry.
If fieriness is an issue for you, I recommend nuea khem tom kathi (580 baht) or salt-cured beef cheek simmered in coconut milk.
The beef was slow-cooked until it became very tender but still retained its fatty marbling taste and springily soft mouthfeel. The coconut milk broth was provided with an oniony taste and thickness by shallots while fresh bird's eye chillies lent to the savoury sweet broth a characteristic peppery kick.
Nam phrik kai kem (480 baht) is another dish that promises to satisfy keen connoisseurs of traditional Thai cuisine. The chilli relish was permeated with salted egg and lump crab meat to form a pleasantly chunky consistency and rich nutty taste. Complementing it was caramelised shrimps and fresh vegetables assortment.
The coconut cheesecake with white chocolate mousse.
To cater to vegetarian diners, there's also a nice selection of plant-based dishes exclusively crafted to showcase the full range of Thai flavours. Highlights include phla lai bua or sour and spicy salad of runners with pomelo and homemade chilli paste; deep-fried tofu skin roll with turnip filling; green curry with plant-based meat; and curried enoki mushroom fritters with cucumber relish.
Front Room's repertoire of ice cream and sorbet, which is also served as a pre-dessert option, is inspired by classic Thai snacks including khao taen nam taengmo (watermelon-infused crispy rice pops) and gluay ping (grilled banana).
From these, the ice cream gluay ping (120 baht) cleverly retains the characteristic salty-sweet flavours of the flame-grilled banana and its complementing caramel-like sauce, a mixture of coconut cream, palm sugar and salt.
Deep-fried prawn fritter with sweet and sour cucumber relish.
While the khao taen nam taengmo sorbet (120 baht) exhibited the complete taste profile of the watermelon, the rice pops and sugarcane were a very light and refreshing treat.
For those who like a citrusy palate-cleanser, the sorbet som zaa is guaranteed to delight you with a zesty combination of bitter orange, green mango and ginger which takes a cue from som chun, an ancient summer delicacy.
For the real sweet finale, a very rich and fragrant coconut cheesecake with young coconut jelly and white chocolate mousse (280 baht) and a Chiang Mai dark chocolate terrine with cracker crumbles and sour cream ice cream (240 baht) wonderfully wrapped up the dinner.
Service was as prompt, pleasant and cordial as always.
The reconstructed khanom gui-chai (chive dumpling).
- Front Room
- Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, Lower Lobby
- 151 Ratchadamri Road
- Call 02-846-8888
- Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11.30am-2pm and 5.30-9.30pm
- Park at the hotel’s car park
- Most credit cards accepted
