The seventh iteration of Eats Payao Home-Bar & Kitchen has found its location in a shophouse tucked away in a residential area of Yenarkat 2. The brainchild and business baby of Thai-Singaporen couple Phoungkhae Koh and Gavin Koh have come so so far, given its humble beginning as a booth at K-Village weekend market in 2014.
Don't be fooled by the cosy and compact setup, which basically consists of one dining room with two big tables and one small one. They serve proper meals and no nibbles here. The menu reflects the couple's roots; Khae being from the northern province of Payao while Koh being from the Land of Merlion. Thus, Eats Payao's offerings are a platter of northern Thai favourites, Singaporean hawker fare as well as recipes from other Asean countries.
Eats Payao's take on the Singaporean chilli crab (B2,000 for a crab that weighs more than 1kg) is one of the bests I've tried in Bangkok. The huge Sri Lankan mud crab is served on a pool of spicy and savoury sauce and a side of homemade mantou. Put on a plastic glove before you crack into its huge claws to retrieve delicate and slightly sweet crabmeat. The mantou buns are crispy on the outside while its spongy inside deliciously soaks up all the flavours. They are good on their own that I would like to ask for condensed milk to dip them in. Pro tip: To get the most out of this dish (or another dish out of this dish), flipping up the shell, put some rice into it, scramble it with the remaining organs and enjoy! I know it may sound a bit icky but I don't think you would be disappointed.
Ayam buah kelauk.
Chilli crab.
Ayam buah kelauk (B480) is definitely rare, and may I ask exotic, treat. Said to be a favourite of Singapore's founding prime minister Lee Kuan Yew, the curry is known for containing buah kelauk nuts which are deadly poisonous if not prepared properly and painstakingly. The fact that I'm writing this shows that they have been handled properly before Eats Payao incorporate them into a bowl of herbalicious gravy with tender chicken. The nuts are stuffed with minced pork for extra flavour and they remind me of cacao and olive.
Your trainer may disapprove of the fat layers featured in Devil's curry (B350) but I say YOLO. The juicy pork belly is served on a very aromatic curry with a touch of spiciness. I expect the pork's skin to be crispy but it almost melts in my mouth like jelly. A pleasant surprise.
Noodle fans should give Fried fish bee hoon (B200) a try. The sea bass is battered and fried to give it a thin crust and seal its flavour inside. The white bee hoon noodle is chewy but not hard while the milky broth gives you many savoury sips.
Eats Payao continues to serve good food throughout its evolution. The establishment may look homely and small but they definitely serve up heavy flavours and sizeable portions. They also recently launched a pre-paid package that can be used for dining in or delivery with no expiry dates. Choose either B5,000 or B10,000 package and get 30% extra credit or you'll get an additional B1,500 or B3,000 respectively.
Devil’s curry.
Eats Payao, Yenarkat 2 /Opens Tue to Sun from noon-3pm for lunch and 6pm to 9.30pm (until 11pm on Fri and Sat) / Visit fb.com/eatspayao.
