An elegant pocket watch, an asymmetric wristwatch and a perpetual calendar chronograph were among 10 vintage timepieces offered at Vacheron Constantin's boutique in Siam Paragon.
Pink gold watch with a Champagne-toned dial (Ref 4165–1942).
Last month, the roadshow in Bangkok brought a selection of Les Collectionneurs -- a range of carefully sourced, restored and authenticated models made in the 20th century.
The collection was previously presented in almost confidential customer meetings. Connoisseurs can now update on Les Collectionneurs, which appears among other watch families on the brand's website.
"Vacheron Constantin began researching and restoring antique timepieces some 15 years ago, with the aim of meeting the needs expressed by a clientele of collectors. Since 2008, we have gained enough experience to institutionalise Les Collectionneurs, whose timepieces are now shown online, as are details of the boutiques where they are offered for sale," said style and heritage director Christian Selmoni.
The assortment for Bangkok traces back to the 1940s and 50s.
Influenced by the Art Deco style, the pink gold pocket watch (Ref 4118–1940) features a domed case with clean, pure lines and a copper and silver-toned dial with a small seconds display at 6 o'clock.
Pink gold pocket watch with a copper and silver-toned dial (Ref 4118–1940).
Three wristwatches are driven by Calibre 453, regarded as a benchmark among manual-winding movements in those days.
The first is housed in a 33mm pink gold case with a Champagne-toned dial (Ref 4165–1942).
Yellow gold shines on a 36mm model with a silvery face (Ref 4600– 1950) and a 38mm watch with stepped lugs and a porcelain-finished dial (Ref 4826–1953). Both were oversized considering that men's watches generally came in a diameter from 32-35mm in that era.
Still in good condition, the classics were hunted down by the maison's heritage experts, who reference the archives in identifying each piece.
"First and foremost, we have to find models that are neither too rare nor too common. They must also not be too damaged, too recent nor too old," explained Selmoni. "On this basis, it's a question of finding timepieces that all have a specific characteristic liable to make them sufficiently attractive to collectors. This may take the form of an original display, an exceptional calibre, an anniversary piece, artistic craft models or Grand Complications. Any combination can work, provided of course that you know how to assess its relevance from a historical perspective."
The well-kept archives include sales and production registers, correspondence and other iconographic documents as well 1,600 horological items from the 18th century to the present day.
Yellow gold watch with stepped lugs and opaline silver-toned dial (Ref 4826–1953).
This enables the heritage experts to guarantee the traceability of all timepieces that have left its workshops since 1775.
Milestones in the 20th century included the 1907 release of the Chronomètre Royal developed for hot, humid climates of Latin America. From 1953 onwards, wristwatch versions have offered the same qualities of robustness, resistance and precision as the pocket watch.
The Les Collectionneurs selection includes the yellow gold Chronomètre Royal (Ref 6694–1967), nicknamed Batman because of the highly recognisable shape of its lugs. The other self-winding model (Ref 42001-1978) represents the evolution towards sportier timepieces in a steel case with an integrated bracelet.
A yellow gold watch is shaped as an isosceles trapezoid (Ref 2091-1972). Vacheron Constantin was awarded the Diplôme du Prestige de la France for the atypical design.
Models from the 1990s include a yellow gold chronograph (Ref 47001–1991) boasting a fine Clou de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern on its opaline dial.
Both from 1999, the platinum Historiques chronograph (Ref 47111) is inspired by an emblematic 1940s model, while the pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph (Ref 49005) stands out for its masterful layout of the complications.
"A closer look at the distinctive features of Les Collectionneurs timepieces highlights the wealth of Vacheron Constantin's production through the ages in terms of both men's and ladies' watches," said Selmoni.
With each acquisition of a vintage timepiece, the serial numbers of the case and movement are recorded and kept in the archives for authentication purposes.
A technical diagnosis then determines whether the model requires simple cleaning, repair for malfunction or, more fundamentally, the replacement or supply of faulty or missing components.
The restoration respects the work of ancestral watchmakers so as not to adulterate the timepiece. Any major operation and various stages of restoration are documented in a booklet given to the client.
Each vintage model is delivered with a certificate of authenticity, a two-year warranty and a blockchain-based Digital Passport to enable trust and transparency for the future lifetime of the timepiece.
Prestige de la France asymmetrical watch in yellow gold (Ref 2091–1972).
Chronomètre Royal in yellow gold with a silver-toned dial (Ref 6694–1967).
Pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph (Ref 49005–1999).
Chronomètre Royal in steel (Ref 42001–1978).
