Bangkok's coffee houses offer more than just an air-conditioned escape from the overheated rigours of life in the capital. They are human petrol stations _ places to refuel, snack and reorder the mind amid the chaos. Coffee houses also serve as surrogate offices or libraries, places to meet business clients, study for exams or polish off a book. And, yes, the air-conditioning doesn't hurt either.
The rise of coffee shops has mirrored the increase in laptop and tablet ownership and it's a trend that's holding strong in the city. While the US has reached coffee house saturation _ 900 Starbucks outlets have closed since 2008, for example _ Thailand's coffee culture shows no signs of abating.
It's hoped that this growth will mean a greater variety of options rather than an increase in the number of chain outlets, though the signs aren't positive; many of our favourite boutique cafes have closed in recent years, giving way to chains that are better able to absorb swings in economy and cafe fashion.
Coffee houses date back hundreds of years, with the first opening either in 962 in Istanbul or 1530 in Damascus, depending on the source. The concept didn't spread through Europe until the 17th century, with Italy later turning the enjoyment of coffee into an art. (If you happen to be on a coffee shop date with a pedant, here's a free one: the proper plural of cappuccino is cappuccini. )
Today Brazil grows the most coffee in the world, followed by Vietnam and Colombia. Thailand is 18th in world production and climbing. The two commonly brewed coffee strains are robusta, which is easier to grow and has 3.8% caffeine content, and arabica, at 1.2% caffeine, whose taste is generally preferred. The darker the roast, the less caffeine and the cheaper it is to produce.
In Bangkok, coffee quality has little to do with price _ some of the best roasts cost 25 baht at street-side stalls, and beans from Thailand's North are as good as any import, while preparation, storage, grinding and quality of the water used have as much influence on the taste of a cup as the brand of coffee bean.
In a bustling city where peace and quiet may not be readily available in the office or even at home, a caffeinated escape is an attractive option. Here are a few places around town where you can enjoy a cuppa, feast on pastries, meet friends, or just hang out for an hour or two without fear of being shoved out the door.
Free Wi-Fi, electrical outlets, value, music, service and ambience all count for much, but the decider will always be the taste of the coffee, with emphasis on drip blends or roasted espresso drinks, especially in their purest form _ black, bitter, strong and palpitating. This list is by no means exhaustive or authoritative _ just a selection we visited to get you started.
BANGKOK COFFEE HOUSES
Sweets Cafe
Sweets replaced Wawee Coffee, which was a minor institution in the Ari area; with cheap Wi-Fi, good Chiang Mai coffee, wooden panelling, live music in the evenings, it was an established meeting point for students or young couples. Hygiene standards may not have been ideal, but Wawee compensated with charm and hassle-free comfort to stay as long as you needed to finish reading your magazine or memorise that English vocabulary list. While Sweets Cafe looks much the same, and the coffee tastes very similar _ dark, flavourful espresso roast _ prices have gone up a bit (americano 60 baht, blueberry cheesecake 90 baht).
Ari Soi 1, BTS Ari, 8am to 8pm, 02-619-9938.
The Coffee Zelection
In a new location nearby, the coffee (50 baht) is average but the range of juices and frappes is excellent. Light food options are OK, no Wi-Fi, but the air-conditioned interior or deck are good places to linger.
34 Phahon Yothin Soi 7, BTS Ari, 10am-11pm, 02-619-6420.
Cafe de Norasingha
Said to be the first cafe in Thailand (although it has moved locations several times), this atmospheric and stately spot set in Phaya Thai Palace has vintage furniture, high ceilings and low prices. One of the few options in the coffee shop-deficient Victory Monument area and one of the best options in the city. The cafe is inside what was the royal reception room during the reign of King Rama VI (1910-1925), with wall panels, ceiling frescoes and wooden floors. The coffee is good (latte 40 baht) and the light food options (sandwiches 35 baht) are cheap. Nostalgia, architecture, good coffee and music.
Ratchawithi Road by Phra Mongkut Hospital, BTS Victory Monument, Mon-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat-Sun 10:30am-7pm, 02-354-8376.
Ann's Sweet
Another Place with Lavazza coffee (60 baht) and homemade cakes (blueberry cheesecake 110 baht), this cute shop opposite Phra Sumen Fort is more a place to escape the heat than somewhere to linger, but along with Ricky's Coffee down the road is the best option in the area.
138 Phra Athit Road, 11am-8pm, 02-281-4228.
Mille Crepe
Good Illy americano (65 baht) and cappuccino (75 baht). The decor upstairs is hard to describe _ shades of dollhouse chic and retro? Old telephones, frames, lamps, TVs and wallpaper patchwork cover the walls and ceilings, but it's a comfortable eccentricity. Crepes (95 baht) look more like slices of cake. The Wi-Fi "is not for guests". Nevertheless, a good option if you're in the area, though it gets overrun by students from nearby Satri Witthaya during after-school hours.
105 Din So Road near Democracy Monument, 10am-9pm, 02-629-4194.
On Lok Yun
Near Chalermkrung Theatre and The Old Siam Plaza, On Luk Yun (Amusement Park) is a remnant of the 1950s, when this was the happening part of town and directors and actors would have coffee here before premieres next door. A big greasy American breakfast costs 60 baht and coffee just 20 baht. Don't expect modern frills such as Wi-Fi or air-con, but this is one of the city's more unusual cafe experiences.
72 Charoen Krung Road, 5am-4.30pm, 02-223-9621.
The Fabulous Bar and Dessert Cafe
Although it serves the same Illy coffee as other places, it doesn't seem as good _ sour, powdery, tart. Otherwise, this place tucked down an alley behind the Tom Yum Kung place towards the police station end of Khao San Road is comfortable, with late hours and easy-listening jazz. The four-legged visitor that scampered across the floor during our visit, though, somewhat spoiled the serenity. Free Wi-Fi.
Khao San Road, 10am-midnight, 02-629-1144.
Bug and Bee
Cafe can mean just about anything, from bar, brasserie and music venue to any kind of restaurant. Bug & Bee covers just about all of them with the exception of live music. A creperie with an interesting selection of vegetarian options, in a city of chain eateries it is a breath of fresh air. A clunky, wieldy menu could take half an hour to absorb, and the dishes (and service) are hit and miss but win points for originality and vegetarian options. The mango tart (70 baht+) or paneer and apple salad (115 baht+) are good and among the few items that don't involve crepes. The smoothies and jelly drinks are disappointing. What it loses in the taste of coffee it gains in menu innovation. While the name sounds like a British pub, this is a viable coffee (65 baht+) option, with free Wi-Fi and outlets. Other branches at CentralWorld and, oddly, Taipei.
18 Silom Road, BTS Sala Daeng, open 24 hours, 02-233-8118.
Too Fast to Sleep
This 24-hour place is a little pricey but actually encourages you to stay as long as you like _ and some Chula students do, claiming tables for days on end. Food and coffee (80 baht) are good, and you get three hours of free Wi-fi per order and the occasional university jazz band playing.
Opposite Chamchuri Square, Sam Yan MRT, 086-577-8989.
Dean & Deluca
This New York import goes for a glass-and-steel industrial look, and lunch time, with its throngs of Silom and Sathon executives, can be noisy, but it's not all plastic stools and metal tables _ there are sofas to the side and a few outlets. The coffee is decent and the sandwiches are exceptional, and there are plenty of newspapers and magazines to read.
92 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Road, BTS Chong Nonsi, 7am-8pm, 02-234-1434.
Zana's Bean
Slightly past Wawee on the opposite side of Surawong, another place with decent coffee and Wi-Fi is this branch of a small local coffee house.
Surawong Road, Mon-Fri 7am-7pm, Sat-Sun 8am-6pm, 02-236-6632.
Coffeol
A purchase (americano 75 baht) gets you two hours of Wi-Fi, so this is a convenient place to take a break from shopping. At a busy junction in Siam Paragon, with many tables crammed into a small space, don't expect too much privacy or serenity, but this is still one of the best options in the mall, and the MBK branch is more spacious.
4th floor, Siam Paragon, and ground floor, MBK, 10am-9pm, 02-891-4649.
Sweet Sin
This second-storey place has americano (50 baht), with pasta, cakes and sausage dishes for around 100 baht each. This is a tranquil spot above hectic Siam Square for a quick cup. No Wi-Fi, and the fine print on the menu says you need to spend 50 baht an hour if you want to linger. Walls are pink, decor is girly, air a bit stale but the music is ambiently funky.
432/9 Siam Square Soi 9, Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-9pm, 02-251-2439.
Cafe de Bliss
With Wi-Fi and sofas, great coffee (65 baht) and large servings, this is another good place to take a break from shopping. Another branch at Sukhumvit Soi 19.
3rd floor, Siam Paragon, 10am-9pm
Elefin Coffee
There's something for everyone here, as the cafe doubles as a sort of community space, with art exhibitions, local bands playing in the evenings, and weekend tango and salsa lessons. They roast their own beans _ at times overroast them _ and there's free Wi-Fi and outlets. The menu is also good value, especially the weekday lunch sets (130 baht) that include coffee and fruit.
11/26 Sukhumvit Soi 1, BTS Ploenchit or Nana, 7.30am-10.30pm, 02-655-3200.
Something Sweet
Somewhat bitter coffee (50 baht) and soda drinks (40 baht) are good value, but the blueberry cheesecake (100 baht) was disappointing. One of the better options at CentralWorld to take a break, but no Wi-Fi or outlets. Other branches at the Interchange building near Sukhumvit MRT and at Sathon Soi 8.
7th floor, CentralWorld, Ratchaprasong, BTS Chidlom, 10am-10pm, 02-235-4834.
Bitter Brown
Relaxing and chic without any hint of pretentiousness. The americano or Twinings tea (65 baht) are good, and the pasta dishes (150 baht and up) are excellent. Free Wi-Fi. An oasis of calm just north of Soi Cowboy, with some of the best coffee shop music (classical, jazz, ambient electronic) in Bangkok, it's surprising this place isn't more popular than it is.
Asok Court, Sukhumvit Soi 21, Sukhumvit MRT, Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, 02-261-6535.
Little Spoon
A 2nd-storey oasis just off Asok Road, with Muji-esque interior design _ earth tones and modern furniture. Friendly and comfortable, with free Wi-Fi, cakes and a variety of ice cream flavours. Americano (60 baht) is excellent, though use of the toilet involves traversing the lighting shop downstairs.
Sukhumvit 21 Soi 3, Phetchaburi MRT, 10am-9pm, 08-7983-9001.
Li-bra-ry
Comfortable and homey, this branch of Library has good coffee, free Wi-Fi and is a good place to study and escape the heat.
2 Soi Metheenivet, Sukhumvit Soi 24, BTS Phrom Phong, 8am-9pm, 02-259-2878.
Kuppadeli
A little north of Little Spoon, the coffee here isn't as good or as good value _ this is Kuppa restaurant's attempt at creating a local deli in the vein of Dean & Deluca. Has some good dishes and decent long black (80 baht), free Wi-Fi, outlets and reading materials.
219/1A Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asok), Phetchaburi MRT, 7am-7pm, 02-664-2350/1.
Agaligo
Stylish, quiet and classy, full of ferns and a large, beautiful garden, Agalico _ despite the Pali name and Zen-like quiet _ takes you back to 19th century Europe. You won't find anything else like this in Bangkok. Unfortunately, the watery coffee (120 baht) and bland cappuccino (120 baht) don't taste nearly as good as they look. Tea and scones are a better option here. Short opening hours make it less convenient but the setting is superb.
Boonjirathorn Building, Sukhumvit Soi 51, BTS Thong Lor, Fri-Sun 10am-6pm, 02-662-5857.
Roast Coffee & Eatery
The industrial-and-brick interior is roomy, and there is free Wi-Fi, but the menu is pricey even by Thong Lor standards. Roast has a good reputation and has won a barista competition or two, but on our visit the americano (90 baht+) was watery, sour and unpalatable, the mocha (120 baht+) was visually a work of art but plain, and the New York cheesecake (200 baht+) possibly the best in Bangkok, though the Fifth Avenue price was galling. When a jazz band played right outside they insisted on drowning it out with their own music so you heard nothing but a disjointed, stressful cacophony. Requests to turn off the interior music were met with bemusement and non-compliance. A trendy and popular place, but we won't be returning.
SeenSpace complex, Thong Lor Soi 13, 10am-9pm, 02-185-2865.
Bianco Nero
Designed around a ''chocolate cafe'' concept, Bianco Nero has faux chocolate dripping from the ceiling. The northern Thai coffee (60 baht) is very good but the grades of imported hot chocolate _ from sickly sweet to pure, bitter cocoa _ you can choose from make this little place deliciously unique. Free Wi-Fi and late hours make it convenient, and the good cocktails turn this into a meeting point option before hitting the nearby clubs.
2nd floor, Opus building, Thong Lor Soi 10, 11am-midnight, 02-714-9368.
Around the Corner
Decorated like a dollhouse, Around the Corner's ''cottage chic'' look and music are decidedly girly, but the place is cosy and has Wi-Fi. Espresso (80 baht) illogically costs more than americano (70 baht) but both are good and the caffe latte (85 baht) is excellent and the snack options are reasonably priced for the area. The air-con can be overwhelming at times _ bring a coat. Also sells hand-painted furniture.
@Grass Thong Lor complex, 264/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55, BTS Thong Lor, Mon-Thu 10am-8pm, Fri-Sun 10am-10pm, 02-714-9771.
Parferio
The coffee (americano 65 baht) is average but the cakes, smoothies and ice cream are innovative and delicious. Fruit tart with a dollop of soft serve ice cream in a wafer (115 baht) is worth the price. Service is friendly, quick, unobtrusive and unobsequious. Free water and, when it's working, Wi-Fi. Other branches at Sukhumvit Soi 24, Silom Complex, Crystal Park and CentralWorld.
Eight Thonglor complex, Sukhumvit Soi 55, BTS Thong Lor, 10am-11pm, 02-713-8412.
Banrie Coffee
A very Thai choice for coffee (80 baht) and a refreshing change from imported chains (although Banrie has many petrol station branches around the country). You can choose your beans and roasts, get it with condensed milk and tea chasers, and it has outlets and is open 24 hours. No Wi-Fi and the stools are fiercely uncomfortable, but as can be judged by the many late night studiers, this is a popular place to linger.
4 Sukhumvit Soi 63, BTS Ekamai, 24 hours, 02-391-9784.
The Coffee Club
Coffee here is a blend of robusta and arabica beans from various countries (the exact recipe is a carefully guarded secret), ground in and exported from Sydney. But with 300 branches in five countries, this Australian chain must be doing something right. Cappuccino (85 baht) is flavourful, and a sizeable menu with food options such as a breakfast wrap (190 baht) bring Australian cafe culture to Thailand. This is a good option for business luncheons, but Wi-Fi and long opening hours also make it conducive to lazy afternoons.
On the ground floor of Major Cineplex Ekamai, corner of Sukhumvit Road and Soi Ekamai, 7am-11pm, call 02-381-2736.
Blue Door
Tripling as a bookshop and eatery, Blue Door has excellent coffee (50 baht), bland, watery, powdery iced mocha (65 baht), Wi-Fi and good value food (60-100 baht). Books and art everywhere in eclectic random order and pop soundtracks give this place a pleasant air of eccentricity.
Ekamai Soi 10, BTS Ekamai, Mon-Sat 11am-11pm, 02-726-9779.
Beans & Booze
Run by three quirky sisters, this little cafe is friendly and inexpensive, with good coffee, Wi-Fi and a selection of pastries and tasty craft beers.
408 SAF Residence, Sukhumvit Soi 50, BTS On Nut, 8am-9pm, 02-332-9316.
POPULAR CHAINS
Cafe Kaldi
Named after the Ethiopian goatherd who, according to myth, discovered coffee, this Japanese chain has three branches _ 4th floor of MBK, 2nd floor of Esplanade and a handy one at JJ Mall to escape the heat at Chatuchak Weekend Market. Salmon salad (75 baht), mango juice (50 baht) and matcha soft serve (25 baht) are good, and the coffee is superb.
Starbucks
Not fans of the coffee here, and a little baffled why this Seattle chain has conquered the world, we'll admit some of the branches (such as Lang Suan and Thong Lor) are certainly very comfortable. The bland drip coffee is more expensive than at its US branches, but without the variety of brews to choose from. Wi-Fi and snacks are overpriced, but the sandwiches are good and the armchairs expansive, perfect for curling into with your Bankok Post Sunday. Drip blends or americano (70 baht) are poor-tasting options here.
Black Canyon Coffee
Along with Kaldi and the ''Dois'' has the best coffee (55 baht) of the chains _ dark, flavourful roast that comes with crackers and a tea chaser _ and some reasonable food options (pasta dishes around 100 baht). No Wi-Fi, newspapers or outlets make it a less convenient place to linger. Despite its name, this is a Thai chain, with nearly 200 branches in the Kingdom.
Wawee Coffee
Coffee (55 baht) and music (dance-club hip hop) vary among Bangkok's 11 branches, but each purchase gets you a free hour of Wi-Fi, and there are outlets and magazines to read and often a pleasant garden terrace. Branches include Nang Linchi Road, Pracha Chuen Road, Paradise Park and at the corner of Surawong and Sap roads, 7am-10pm, 02-637-0700.
Tom N Toms Coffee
Korea's biggest chain now has several branches in Bangkok. They use arabica beans but the final product is average (short americano 75 baht); some outlets and free Wi-Fi make up for that. Snacks consist of unusual breads, pizza and pretzels.
Mezzo
Another Thai chain serving arabica beans from northern Thailand, and most of the 36 branches in greater Bangkok are small but comfortable. Coffee (50 baht) is good, and while it lacks Wi-Fi and reading material, if you bring your own you can linger in style.
Caffe D'Oro
Branches (over 70 in Thailand) are usually small, unassuming places, but some have magazines or Wi-Fi that doesn't work.
Cafe Doi Tung
One of the more comfortable and reasonably priced options, although several branches have the thermostat set to sub-arctic. The tasty arabica grown in Chiang Rai supports sustainable farming in the North. Some two dozen branches in Bangkok, Hua Hin, Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.
Doi Chaang Coffee
Branches, such as opposite Ekamai Big C (open 7.30am-10pm), are comfortable, conducive to lingering and some have free Wi-Fi. The 50-baht americano is extraordinary, proving that northern Thai free-trade arabica is as good as any imported blend.
McCafe
Don't let your hi-so friends spot you here, but a coffee addiction sometimes calls for desperate measures, and a viable late-night option is one of the McDonald's cafes around town. With more and more 24-hour branches, this is a convenient place to cram for tomorrow's biology exam. Stores are invariably noisy, though, and while the coffee is palatable the food tastes like it's been sitting around under heat lamps for 12 hours _ and possibly has. Forget about Wi-Fi or electrical outlets.
Coffee World
Reliable coffee, value and comfort, with outlets in many of the shopping centres. All have free Wi-Fi.
True Coffee
Has average coffee, but some branches have outlets, newspapers and patient staff who won't kick you out for taking your time to finish that long article on coffee shops.
