Leaving Taipei behind

Leaving Taipei behind

There's so much more to Taiwan beyond its bustling capital

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
Leaving Taipei behind
A bhikkhuni makes her way through Arhat Trail, a cliff side trail in Wu Sheng Monastery. Peerawat Jariyasombat

Leave the crowded city of Taipei behind, you will find that the northeast of Taiwan is not too small for your exploration.

If you spend a few days in bustling Taipei, you may be misled into thinking that this island is always busy and crowded. Indeed Taiwan is not small at all, and getting outside the big city will lead you to many more delights.

After visiting major attractions in the city, I head southeast to Yilan County and find it more relaxing with wider space. Rice paddies stretch out to the foothills. Yilan has an easier atmosphere, however, with more rain. The county situated southeast of Taipei is well known for rain that soaks the area more than 300 days in a year.

I walk in a light shower to a leaning gigantic building that can be noticed from the distance. Lanyang Museum is a good place to learn about this area. It is an outstanding place with a unique architectural design.

Lanyang Museum can be seen from a distance. The museum is located next to a wetland, which once was a busy port of Wushih. Inspired by the rock formation of cuesta commonly found in this coastal area, its unique design mimics the nearby terrain by putting a huge building in a triangular shape on the ground at an angle. Peerawat Jariyasombat

Its leaning shape makes it look like a spaceship that accidentally landed in Yilan and partly sunk in the soft soil.

Such design refers to the landscape here. Along the Beiguan Coast, there are a number of cuestas, a hill with a gentle slope on one side and a steep slope on the other. So the museum adopts this outstanding geometric shape.

Formerly known as Kavalan, Yilan was named after an aboriginal tribe who lived in the area for centuries until Han Chinese people migrated there the late 18th century and built Toucheng or the "first township" here.

The huge museum features an overall view of this area, where one can take note of the biodiversity of the Chilan Mountain and the amazing marine life that stretches some 100km along its coastline. Exhibitions showcase the development of port towns, maritime history and agriculture, which are the county's backbone.

However, if you want to delve deeper into Yilan's spirit, the National Centre for Traditional Arts is the place that shouldn't be missed.

The centre can be called a living museum that features the best of Yilan's cultural heritage, particularly arts and crafts. In the rain, I stroll along the winding Wenchang Boulevard, of which traditional shophouse buildings on both sides showcase excellent handicrafts ranging from traditional attires, tea, to grocery.

Take a walk on this beautiful street and it will feel as if you stepped back in time. The façades of the boulevard imitates traditional shophouses from different areas in Taiwan such as Hukou, Sanchia and Dadaocheng.

If you are a serious shopper, spend more time and money to explore the old-fashioned boulevard. If not, darting to the adjacent Luban Boulevard is probably a better idea. There are studios that allow visitors to touch and learn about Taiwanese workmanship, including wood carving, ceramic works and dyeing.

I watch the carpenters work and listen as they explain their proud art pieces, while ceramic artists show their lovely pottery and dyers talk about their passions in producing stunning pieces of art.

The National Centre for Traditional Arts is packed with arts and crafts that mirror Taiwan's appreciation in art and cultural heritage. Some studios offer DIY courses to learn about these handicrafts. Peerawat Jariyasombat

The coach I take makes its way along the eastern coast of the island, passing great sea views of the Pacific Ocean. From Yilan, I head north to New Taipei City, which covers the northern corner of Taiwan.

In the peaceful town of Fulong, the Ling Jiou Mountain Wu Sheng Monastery is a special place for pilgrimage. Hidden in the forest, the hilltop monastery offers open views of the Fulong Coast. Such peacefulness makes it one of the best places to take a spiritual retreat.

Anyway, for an art person, Juming Museum may be a better choice. Named after the renowned Taiwanese artist Ju Ming, the museum keeps a number of cheerful sculptures in its huge garden.

Ju Ming designed the gallery building and landscape, and spent 12 years finishing the construction. The museum now spans over 110,000m². Its lush garden is enlivened with sculptures in the shapes of soldiers, ladies, family and people practicing Tai Chi. No, they are not quite neat art pieces. On the other hand, these sculptures are rough. Some may say they are unfinished. But I love these rough shapes that amazingly reflect feelings.

Juming Museum is a place of joy. Spend a few hours here and you may reignite the spirit of art hidden inside your heart. The sculptures displayed here are rich with feeling. According to the museum's website, the sculptures express Taiwanese artist Ju Ming's admiration for rural characters and traditional culture. The famous Tai Chi Series shows the development of his unique style and creativity. Peerawat Jariyasombat

Of course, these easy art pieces attract a lot of children. They giggle and mimic the postures of these sculptures. Kids are happy to roam this museum and their happiness seem to make other patrons happy as well.

Before heading back to Taipei, I stop by at Dharma Drum Mountain at Jinshan for a vegetarian lunch. At first, I learn that a number of Buddhists visit this place for praying and vegetarian food. But it offers much more than that.

Dharma Drum Mountain houses a gigantic monastery complex and Buddhism education centre. It also serves as the campus of Dharma Drum Sangha University, providing monastic training for monks and Buddhists from around the world. There is a Buddhist library where visitors can study about the religion.

Try stepping out of Taipei, and you will find a lot of interesting destinations in Taiwan.

Dharma Drum Mountain houses a five-storey library and information centre that keeps nearly 500 periodicals from different countries, books on various religious topics and 45 editions of the Tripitaka. Peerawat Jariyasombat

When you climb Ling Jiou Mountain, you will be greeted with great ocean view and a 12m-tall Guanyin statue standing elegantly on top of the mountain next to Wu Sheng Monastery. The cast bronze features black skin and a body covered in gold. Next to the statue, there are 53 stupas which contain different objects such as scriptures and amulets. Peerawat Jariyasombat

Visitors walk to a pavilion that houses a gigantic bell in Dharma Drum Mountain. The place is a good example of Buddhist education. The complex comprises Dharma Drum Sangha University, International Conference Hall, dormitories, a meditation centre and facilities for those who are interested in studying Buddhism. Peerawat Jariyasombat

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