At this time of year, both Bangkokians and tourists alike head for the elevators. Hit the top button in any decent hotel’s lift and within a minute you’ll be stepping out to a dazzling view of the city. Grab a seat as near to the edge as you dare, order a cocktail, relax and grab that all-important selfie.
However, the problem with these rooftop photo opportunities is the fact that, quite often, yourself won’t be the only self in the selfie. For those wishing to avoid the justifiably busy Bangkok rooftops, without sacrificing the view or the quality cocktails and food, allow us to let you into a little secret.
The Banyan Tree’s 61st floor, housing the Moon Bar and Vertigo restaurant under a canopy of stars, is one of the most famous and most visited in the city. But did you know that just a few elevator stops below, on the 51st and 52nd floors, Banyan Tree has hidden a gem.
Saffron is an elegant and stylish Thai restaurant serving the classic dishes you love with extra innovative twists and gourmet ingredients. But before you enter the restaurant, you mustn’t miss the 51st floor.
If you’ve ever gazed upon the Banyan Tree from a distance - either from an alternative elevated vantage point or craning your neck up from street level - you’ll have noticed an intriguing design twist in the façade of this slim building. There’s a huge hole, and there seems to be a tree in it.
You’re looking at Saffron Sky Garden which, believe it or not, has a real tree planted within, 51 floors above busy Sathorn Road. The breezy garden bar spans the width of the property with the tree as its centrepiece, meaning you get to choose a city view or a slightly less urban view.
Bangkok is fascinating from above. If you arrive before sunset (the bar opens at 5pm, the restaurant at 6pm) then you get to play Spot Your Home, scanning the breathtaking city panorama for your house or condo. You’ll also play Who Lives There, when you look down on marvellous gardens enclosing grand residences, normally hidden from view at street level.
A few drinks make the game even more fun. The Saffron Sky Garden menu offers cocktail creations reflecting different regions of the kingdom. We start in Koh Samui, with a tropical-tasting Safe Haven. It’s a mix of all local ingredients - the exclusive Phraya Thai gold rum, peach liqueur, lime and coconut water. It’s served tiki-style in a locally-produced earthenware mug. (The straw is biodegradable. Hotel policy is no single-use plastics throughout.)
The next aperitif was a stronger, Northern-inspired Golden Triangle. The hits of Mekhong and Sangsom rums are disguised with bitters, lime and ginger ale. It’s got a kick but is extremely drinkable - one more and we might have forgotten all about dinner.
Up a few steps to the 52nd floor, Saffron takes the best of Thai dishes and adds a luxe gourmet twist. The space is contemporary elegance, with the décor’s deep blues and rich rust shades highlighted by subtle gold flourishes. As we are led to our table through the lotus-bedecked entrance, gentle music lulls us into a relaxed anticipation of the delights to come.
All your Thai favourites are on offer, and if you’re new to the cuisine and don’t have any favourites yet, the menu helpfully includes a glossary of Thai dishes and herbs. Or just ask the waitstaff, of course.
Dining at Saffron is a special experience, but their New Year’s Eve menu goes above and beyond. We begin with Trio Roll Zaap, three silver spoons laden with spicy tom yum prawn spring roll, grilled chicken papaya salad roll and crisp baby fish with mango summer roll. Each is bite-sized and brimming with authentic flavours, especially the fish which has quite a kick of hot spice. The spoons are accented with balled mango covered with gold leaf, no less. Vegetarian diners lose the meat but gain papaya and enoki mushrooms.
While you can enjoy the special New Year’s Eve food menu and order drinks a la carte for B6,900, it’s worth mulling over the wine pairings offered, at B9,100 net. The pairing for the rolls, for example, is a Dr. Bürkling-wolf Riesling, and is highly recommended.
The next dish is gorgeously presented. A spicy yellow fin laab tuna (substitute tofu for tuna if you’re a veggie), sits tartare-style on a bed of cucumber slivers, and is topped with a delicate nest of crispy egg vermicelli. A shot of this on your Instagram feed will surely cause the scrollers to pause and admire your good taste.
Next up is Tom Kha Kram Pu Dok Kha-Jaawn, consisting of crab claw in coconut broth, galangal and a flowering plant called cowslip creeper, which sounded to us like a new band your teenage son is into. This comes with a glass of Italian Gewurztraminer from the Alto Adige region.
The three mains are a rib panaeng, a snow fish and scallops, or alternatively pumpkins, oyster mushrooms and sunflower seeds for the meat-averse. The panaeng is a beautiful dish. A trio of slow-cooked Australian short rib chunks are drizzled with a liquorice and coconut panaeng sauce, while a bed of edible flowers adds a visual and textural softness to the dish. The snow fish appears in a spicy sauce for the Pla Thod Kamin, and the Hokkaido scallops come with green leaf and the sour tang of pickled miracle fruit. The wine pairing for the mains is a Spanish Rioja.
Dessert arrives grandly, with a pair of silver bowls atop a polished wooden tray. Each bowl contains Thai dumpling with sweet egg yolk filling. There’s also baby orange ice-cream with ginger candy or mango with sticky rice, although be careful not to fall asleep after this dish and miss the amazing firework displays as the year comes to a close.
In fact, don’t go home yet. While the restaurant closes at 11pm, it’s a very good idea to head back outside to Saffron Sky Garden. Their end of year bash includes unlimited beverages and a sky full of fireworks, and Saffron diners get B2,000 off the normal price of B5,000. Which, however 2018 was for you, is a great excuse to celebrate.
For more information & reservations Tel. +66 (0) 2679 1200. Saffron is open daily: Dinner, 6pm–11pm.
