Once it was almost a botanical garden

Once it was almost a botanical garden

About 20 years ago I was standing on the steps of the British ambassador's residence in Bangkok after interviewing England and Manchester United football legend Sir Bobby Charlton. Shameless name-dropping again, l know, but there is a point. While we were waiting for transport, Sir Bobby surveyed the embassy grounds and remarked what an idyllic scene it was, with all the trees, ponds and well-manicured lawns. He was definitely impressed. With traffic gridlock only a stone's throw away, it was a truly tranquil oasis presided over with aplomb by the statue of Queen Victoria.

If Sir Bobby was to stand in that same spot today, he would experience something of a shock. The embassy and its superb grounds have become victims of the cash-strapped British Foreign Office and sold off as the embassy prepares to move to the delights of a Sathorn office block. It would have been nice if it had become a historical park, but that's living in La La Land.

So rather than whine about it, those of us who had the pleasure of experiencing the grounds should be thankful we were privileged to witness the beauty of the place at such events as the Ploenchit Fair. Speaking of which, after 18 years in assorted locations, next Saturday the fair is returning to the grounds for a kind of last hurrah for the embassy. It will be a final chance to experience the unique location and witness Victoria proudly presiding over the grand occasion. She must have felt a little lonely in recent years.

I have enjoyed sporadic visits to the embassy and it always felt rather special walking about the spacious grounds which MR Pimsai Amranand described with some reverence in her book Gardening in Bangkok as "almost a botanical garden".

Let's remember those beautiful old trees originally planted years ago by a British diplomat who virtually created his own arboretum – rain trees, flame trees, bushes, tropical plants and a world of ferns and fantastic foliage, not to mention frogs and, like any self-respecting garden, even a few weeds.

Blast from the past: Let's remember those beautiful old trees planted years ago by a British diplomat who virtually created his own arboretum - rain trees, flame trees, bushes, tropical plants and a world of ferns and fantastic foliage. (Post Today photo)

Royal selfie

Something that has concerned British expats is the fate of Queen Victoria's statue which has been ensconced in the grounds since 1922. The inscription on the plinth reads in part "erected in loving memory by her subjects in Siam 1903".

Victoria's statue has survived a number of traumatic experiences over the years, particularly when the Japanese crated her up and put her in a corner during World War II. She's too bulky to put in an office block and it will be interesting to see what the new owners of the embassy land have in store for her. Hopefully they will look after the statue and make it accessible to the public.

Victoria could, in fact, become a major attraction in what would be a rather unfamiliar environment. Many Thai people believe the statue brings good luck and Victoria could find herself starring in countless "selfies'' in the coming years.

The virgin author

I particularly remember the fair in 1992. The Bangkok Post had a stall and I was summoned to sign copies of my first book, entitled PostScript. I was a bit apprehensive, envisaging sitting there all by myself like an idiot, surrounded by unsold books and totally ignored by the passing throng. And that's exactly what happened. I had hoped that perhaps Edith Clampton might show up to purchase a copy, but she apparently had more important engagements.

The lonely vigil was broken by the appearance of American author James Eckardt, loaded up with copies of his new book, Waylaid By The Bimbos. Eckardt is what is politely termed an "outgoing" character, and within minutes his books were selling like hotcakes while I just sat there pretending not to notice.

After Eckardt made a few visits to the beer tent, things took an alarming turn. He pulled out his guitar and started singing Bob Dylan songs very loudly, which all ended up sounding like Mr Tambourine Man sung out of key. He could see I was not overly impressed and explained that Dylan songs were supposed to be sung out of tune.

The net result was that Eckardt's singing had driven away any potential book buyers, so we both retired to the beer tent before being booted out at dusk by the Gurkhas.

Nowhere Man

Speaking of books, on Tuesday Nov 27th, I will be signing copies of The Long Winding Road to Nakhon Nowhere and giving an informal talk at the salubrious setting of CheckInn99 on Sukhumvit Soi 33 between 6.30pm-8.30pm. There will be plenty of Nakhon Nowhere tomes available, and I will be happy to sign copies, including those bought in bookshops earlier. If nothing else, just drop in to say "hello".

The "talk", or rather "rambling reminiscences", will cover the overland journey from England in 1969 and the early days in Thailand. Helping me out will be long-time friend and Post colleague Tony Waltham. After we get kicked off the stage, the Rolling Stones tribute band, Midnight Ramblers, will come to the rescue for the rest of the evening. This excellent band will certainly wake up everyone who has fallen asleep listening to me droning on.


Editor's Note: Roger Crutchley's new book also is on sale at Amazon.com. In Thailand, it is available at the DCO bookshop website and at White Lotus Press.


Contact Postscript via email at oldcrutch@gmail.com

Roger Crutchley

Bangkok Post columnist

A long time popular Bangkok Post columnist. In 1994 he won the Ayumongkol Literary Award. For many years he was Sports Editor at the Bangkok Post.

Email : oldcrutch@gmail.com

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