The king of fruit is starting to show up in the market. For lovers of old-school durian, this is arguably the most important period of the durian season. Now you can find the chani variety.
Historically, Thailand is home to over a hundred cultivars of durian but sadly these days only a few are available to the general public. Dominating the market is monthong, which has thick flesh and can be cut well before it's fully ripe, making it suitable for export. A much smaller proportion of the supply is made up of kan yao and chani and a few other varieties.
Chani on sale at a durian stall. Photo: Jeerika Prasert
Of the three main Thai durians, chani is the cheapest, which is partly a reason it has become harder to find. A lot of chani trees have been cut down to make way for the more lucrative monthong. Kan yao, with a small supply, is way more expensive than chani and monthong, thus often considered in a different league.
However, the fact is that among these three common cultivars, chani is not only the most affordable, to some connoisseurs who shun the consumption of half-ripe durian, which is now the norm; it is also the best. Unlike monthong, chani is usually eaten ripe. A good chani has smooth creamy flesh that is sweet with a slight tinge of bitterness. Its aroma and colour are stronger than monthong and kan yao.
The stronger colour of chani meat makes monthong look pale. photo:
April is the best time to find chani from the eastern provinces (the season for durian from the South starts around June). The durian vendors in your area may sell only monthong, but keep asking them about chani and let them realise that there is a demand for the variety, so they will bring some from the main markets to sell.
If you are lucky enough to find chani in your area, be mindful to choose only a ripe one. For inexperienced buyers, rather than buying an unopened fruit, it's wise to go for the meat-only option. Ripe chani has bright yellow flesh. Usually, the stronger the colour, the better the quality. A mouthful of good chani may make you forget about the hardship brought by the pandemic, and remind you of the beauty of life.
