Although their neighbourhood may be known for its malls and cheap wares, local galleries, art centres and community members are joining forces to weave a bridge of art and culture through the Pathumwan Art Routes Project (PARs), aiming to spur the economy after foreign tourists have dwindled amid a pandemic.
Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. Photo: Varuth Hirunyatheb
This is a collective effort of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), Jim Thompson House Museum, William Warren Library, Jim Thompson Art Center, Yelo House, Baan Krua Community, JWD Art Space, Cu Art 4C, Faamai Digital Arts Hub and Chulalongkorn University. The idea is to promote the areas of Pathumwan, Sam Yan and Banthat Thong as a living space where people of all ages can come to admire artworks, learn about the history and enjoy the rich cultural diversity of food together.
"The James HW Thompson Foundation has operated the Jim Thompson House Museum, William Warren Library and Jim Thompson Art Center and our businesses have been affected by the Covid-19 pandemic for the past several months. Our income has dramatically decreased after 90% of foreign tourists have disappeared. Now, we are shifting our target from tourists to local folks and foreign expats so that we can survive in this crucial time. But we can't do it alone, which means we need to have alliances. This is a good chance to build a strong network in our art community," said Ghitiya Gaweewong, artistic director of Jim Thompson Art Center.
"Pathumwan isn't only a commercial district. It also has plenty of cultural spaces. Visitors don't always have to enter shopping malls because we have space for people to enjoy walking tours during the day.
"PARs also includes the Baan Krua Community, which is famous for Muslim food. So, our project isn't limited to arts only. Actually, the neighbourhoods of Pathumwan, Sam Yan and Banthat Thong boast religious diversity, allowing people can enjoy different culinary cultures."
Conveniently located from the Pathumwan Intersection Skywalk, those without much time can arrange a half-day sightseeing tour starting from the BACC to enjoy a string of contemporary art exhibitions by local artists.
Now, its main attraction is the "Glass Plate Negatives: Stories That Transcend Time" exhibition with a showcase of 102 reprinted photographs of Thai kings, royal court members, palaces, historical sites and trading hubs that will be on show until Sept 20.
Jim Thompson House Museum. Photo courtesy of Jim Thompson House
All glass plate negatives were taken during the reign of King Mongkut (Rama IV) to King Prajadhipok (Rama VII) and are now being displayed under four themes, allowing visitors to travel back to the mid-19 century to explore the land of Siam and observe how locals adopted Western innovations to develop the infrastructure structure network.
Back in 1960, King Chulalongkorn captured the limelight when a huge crowd of people sitting on numerous boats greeted him during a visit to Wat Lai in Lop Buri. Another glass plate negative illustrates a sunset over the river during his return to the provincial gendarmerie station in Pak Nam Pho.
Also on view are some images of the Chao Phraya River with a backdrop of Wat Arun and the intersection of Charoen Krung and Maha Chai roads that was once home to B.Grimm Pratu Samyot branch and the Thewarat Sapharom Throne Hall before it was converted into the Phaya Thai Palace Hotel.
A few minutes walk from the BACC to Kasemsan 1, the old warehouse has been transformed into the multi-functional Yelo House, home to hip cafes, design studios and shops selling a wide selection of vintage film cameras and other collectable items.
Until the end of the month, the "Unformative" exhibition takes over the art gallery's second floor to showcase a collection of striking paintings and wood sculptures created by local artists Gumsak Atipiboonsin, Duenchayphoochana Phooprasert, Sukanya Sornbun, Seni Chaemdet and Anurot Chanphosri. Their works talk about a relation between humans and nature.
Behind the Yelo House, visitors can cross Klong Saen Saep to explore the 200-year-old Baan Krua community, home to Cham migrants from Cambodia who brought silk weaving expertise. Back in the 1950s, Jim Thompson found this canalside Muslim hamlet and hired villagers to produce the finest colourful silks for his brand.
Yelo House. Photo courtesy of Sarakadee Lite
"Baan Krua was once the biggest Muslim community in Bangkok. Now it seems like a living museum for young generations to learn about the history and the local way of life. We have been famous for high-quality silk and tempting Muslim cuisine," said Woothinan Nahim, a lecturer from the Baan Krua learning centre.
While the young generation has shifted their paths to become office workers, the 72-year-old uncle Niphon Manuthas is the only one running the silk factory to maintain unique traditions and local wisdom.
"We've adopted silk weaving culture from China. Initially, we used silk in making pa khao ma and sarongs before Jim Thompson taught us how to dye silk in vivid shades. In 1957, silk production was booming and our community could earn up to 200,000 baht a month," Niphon said.
"After Thompson's mysterious disappearance, we spent 10 years weaving silk to finish his orders before many skilful villagers moved to work with the Thai Silk factory by Jim Thompson. Today, our silk is available at five-star hotels like Shangri-La and Mandarin Oriental as well as the annual Otop fair, where we meet customers from the US, Australia and Japan. We also provide custom tailoring services, starting at 2,000 baht."
Veteran artisan Siriporn Rawangnam is in charge of an old wooden loom and catches visitors' attention by using two-toned silks to create a unique turtle scale-like motif called Kred Tao. Recently, Niphon has gained notoriety by developing techniques to produce Sirindhorn silk that is light and transparent.
The tour comes to an end at Jim Thompson House Museum, located on Kasemsan 2. The home showcases over 200 antiques and artwork from Thompson's private collection which transports visitors back to the old days.
The highlights include Bencharong porcelain crafted by Chinese artisans to use in the royal court between the Ayutthaya and early Rattanakosin periods, an 800-year-old U-thong style Buddha head, venerable carved wood sculptures of Nat spirits from Myanmar and the 200-year-old Pha Phra Bot, the powdered colour painting on white cotton recounting the life of the Buddha and the Vessantara Jataka.
A full schedule of activities is available at facebook.com/Parsproject.
Living in the Baan Krua community, Niphon Manuthas has operated a small silk factory for several decades. Photo courtesy of Sarakadee Lite
