Two years ago, Panerai released the Submersible Mike Horn Edition as a professional diving watch and a compendium of innovative solutions for safeguarding our planet and its oceans.
The Florentine watchmaker introduced EcoTitanium to haute horlogerie in making the case, bezel and crown-protecting device while the strap was made from a material obtained from recycled PET.
Last year, Panerai launched the Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT Mike Horn Edition with a case made from metal recycled from the shaft of his sailing vessel, the Pangaea.
The brand's Ecologico project continues with Submersible eLAB-ID boasting the highest percentage of recycled material and Luminor Marina in innovative eSteel.
Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT Mike Horn Edition.
Located within the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the Laboratorio di Idee is the research and development incubator that drives the technical advancements and sustainable watchmaking.
Having to start from scratch in sourcing recycled materials, the challenge was to establish a new supply chain.
In 2018, the brand began collaborating with Aubert & Duval, a subsidiary of Eremet Group, which has a dedicated production unit to deliver aerospace-grade recycled titanium. EcoTitanium has now been used for making the case, movement base plates and bridges of the Submersible eLAB-ID.
The dial made out of EcoTitanium and recycled SLN is supplied by ProCadrans, which has developed several technologies to overcome constraints in using recycled materials. A breakthrough laser technology, for instance, was used to inscribe details without using varnish.
Luminor Marina eSteel 44mm collection. :Panerai
Luminor Marina eSteel 44mm collection. :Panerai
Luminor Marina eSteel 44mm collection. :Panerai
For the first time in watchmaking, 100% recycled SuperLuminova illuminates the eco-friendly concept watch.
Luminescent pigments are very sensitive to a long list of external factors, and recycling them was not an easy task. RC Tritec collaborated with Panerai on the Ecologico project by collecting SuperLuminova scrap materials and recycling the pigments.
Another supplier, Monyco also helped collect SuperLuminova for recycling, and used its expertise in applying the luminescent substance to the dial and hands of the Submersible eLAB-ID.
Specialising in high tech silicon products and processing, Siltronix ST marshalled all its resources and knowledge to deliver a 100% recycled solution for silicon components. Sigatec then produced the escapement wheel and anchor from the recycled silicon.
The use of 100% recycled silicon for movement parts is another first for haute horlogerie. Other parts made from recycled-based materials include sapphire crystal and strap.
Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID 44mm. Panerai
Submersible eLAB-ID 44mm. Panerai
With 98.6% of recycled-based material by weight, the Submersible eLAB-ID is a disruptive example of circular watchmaking practices, which reduce the need for virgin material extraction and its environmental impact.
Naming the suppliers hopefully will get other brands on board the sustainable watchmaking movement.
"We will be very happy if all our peers in Switzerland and around the world get in touch with the same suppliers to use the same materials," said Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué. "We don't want to be the only one doing this. Acting alone won't save the world."
Panerai's mission to bring more circular practices to the watchmaking industry has further advanced with the use of eSteel for its iconic Luminor Marina model.
The case and crown-protecting device as well as the polished dial with a gradient colour feature the new recycled-based steel alloy, which meets the same rigorous standards demanded of steel.
This new model comes in three versions, and the strap is made from recycled PET in a colour that co-ordinates with the dial in deep blue, grey or green.
The components made of recycled-based materials weigh 89g, corresponding to 58.4% of the total weight of the watch.
Water resistant to 300m, the Submersible eLAB-ID and Luminor Marina eSteel are powered by in-house manufactured automatic mechanical movements providing a power reserve of three days.
World-renowned explorer and environmentalist Mike Horn has pretty much inspired Panerai to pioneer the green watchmaking.
One of his expeditions, Pangaea undertaken from 2008 to 2012, launched the Young Explorers Program which selected youngsters to join Panerai's ambassador on his vessel to explore the world and implement social and environmental projects along the way.
The vessel's name, Pangaea, comes from an Ancient Greek word referring to the world as it once was millions of years ago before the continents separated. Horn's dream is to drive a movement in restoring the world to a healthy state.
Saving the planet, particularly its oceans, is also important to Panerai, which has partnered with the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission of Unesco to develop ocean literacy activities as part of the UN Decade of Ocean Science for Sustainable Development (2021-2030).
The brand's ties with the sea began in the early 20th century as it supplied precision instruments to the Italian Royal Navy. The company later focused on the development of military diver's watches, such as Radiomir and Luminor, until the 1980s.
By supporting the Ocean Decade, Panerai reinforces its commitment to promote a sustainable marine environment. The partnership with the IOC-Unesco will develop programmes and actions to develop transformative solutions to the existing and future challenges that face the world's oceans.
