For long-time Bangkok dwellers, Let Them Eat Cake was a dessert institution that left a trail of broken hearts when it closed. But in Bangkok, most things resurrect into something new. Such is Maison Bleue.
(Photos: Siroj Pairomahakij)
"After I closed Let Them Eat Cake, I went back to working for the family's restaurant business in Chiang Mai, which also included Thai desserts shops in Chiang Mai and Bangkok. I also went back to working in the fashion industry but deep inside I was craving to make French pastry, because it had already become my identity, passion and life. I am a pastry chef, through and through," states Mademoiselle Mumu, emphatically.
"I always thought that I would make a comeback into the pastry business and that time came last year. I was afraid, I was petrified because my heart was broken when I closed Let Them Eat Cake. Deep inside I was reluctant though I was also elated that someone wanted to invest in me and my reputation. I decided that it was now or never because my reputation was already fading. My old fan base came back during lockdown when we started a delivery service and sales boomed," says Mademoiselle Mumu, who is quite the character much like her dishes.
Maison Bleue isn't just a pastry shop. In an atrium surrounded by green plants and blue sofas (that shares the space with Karmakamet Secret World behind Emporium), you are treated to everything with the delicate touch of the lady herself.
From left: Ispahan duck breast; Smoked salmon mille-feuille.
"My talents lie in creating desserts that may not be the best technically but they have soul. I wouldn't say I have a signature, but I do love three particular flavours" -- rose, lychee and raspberry. The flavour combination made famous by Pierre Herme of Laduree fame and more popularly known as Ispahan, which is seen throughout the menu in savoury and sweet dishes. Ispahan is a pink, half-opened Damask rose named after the city of Isfahan in Iran, which is known for its roses.
"The reason I started to learn how to make French desserts was because of Pierre Herme. When I was a student in France, it was the first time I tried the Ispahan. When I came back to Thailand, it was mental therapy to use these flavours because it reminded me of good memories of France. I love the taste combination so much, I tried to reinterpret it in many desserts. Now that I have to do savoury dishes too, I've added the flavours to salads, pastas and main courses. I like to introduce what I love to my customers because they are trusting me with my taste," Mademoiselle Mumu adds.
Brunch is my favourite meal and so I begin with the Smoked salmon mille-feuille (B345). Delicate puff pastry layered in between smoked salmon mousse, topped with a not-so-thin sliver of smoked salmon, salmon roe and crème fraîche Maison, made in-house. However, the star of the dish is the creamy scrambled eggs or rather butter with a touch of scrambled eggs, if you get my drift. Never in Thailand (apart from my own home, yes, humble brag), have I had eggs this creamy and delicious. Yum, yum and yum!
From left: Brioche French Toast; Ispahan scallop ceviche.
If you're in for something more refreshing to cool down on a hot day, from Les Entrees section of the menu, order the Ispahan scallop ceviche (B420). The dish is as good to eat as it looks to photograph! Scallop sashimi is layered with raspberry vinegar, macerated raspberry, lychee gel and drops of rose oil which is infused with sorrel. Eclair of crab salad (B265) is choux pastry filled with crab meat, caramelised green apple cubes "tatin" style, avocado, fresh green apple slices topped with paddlefish caviar. Not flavours you'd normally associate with a choux but they work!
Doing my best to not be a glutton, from Les Plats section I order the "Ispahan duck breast (B460). Beautifully sliced pan-grilled duck breast comes with grilled lychee moistened with rose water, drizzled with raspberry sauce and served with potato wedges. Salivating yet? Though Maison Bleue hasn't even open long enough, it's already got a fan favourite -- from the Les Brioche Perdue section, Classic Brioche French Toast (B295). A delightful medley of brioche mousseline, Tahitian vanilla custard, flower honey, almond crumble (for texture), almond tuille, crème fraîche and fresh berries. There is an Ispahan one too, should you prefer it. It is important to note that none of the Ispahan dishes are overpowered with rose, as it takes a deft, delicate hand like Mademoiselle Mumu's to emit the perfect balance.
Few things can be more French than a clafoutis! Imagine my delight when I saw a classic Cherry clafoutis (B85) in Les Viennoiseries section -- I almost screamed. Sweet almond tart dough, frangipane cream, dark cherry and that delicious in-house crème fraîche! But wait, to add more French to the experience, Maison Bleue also serves my favourite tea in the world -- Mariage Freres (B250).
Insider's Tip: Some 18 more items have been added to the already large menu "to accommodate my regular customers so they have more choices," says Mademoiselle Mumu. There are also two private dining areas and a large shaded outdoor area should you want to be away from the maddening crowds.
Though if you're gearing up for the next season of Emily In Paris, begin here at Maison Bleue!
Maison Bleue, Karmakamet Secret World, 30, 1 Soi Methi Niwet, behind Emporium suites / Open 10am-9.30pm daily / Call 091-796-3136, visit FB.com/Maisonbleuelecafe.
