As part of an attempt to keep fit and enjoy what little green space we have in Bangkok, I have been a regular visitor to Benjakitti Park and its recently added section known as Benjakitti Forest Park. The new site, situated on land formerly occupied by the state tobacco company, has been transformed into a green space with different forest types such as mangrove, lowland forest swamp and so on.
From the middle of March until the end of September, the Creative Economy Agency (CEA), with support from the Tourism Authority of Thailand and the Thailand Convention and Exhibition Bureau is hosting a pilot programme of art- and music-related activities and performances under the title "Unfolding Bangkok".
The programme features five art installations, performing arts shows and workshops. The idea is to encourage people to "explore the park's environment and get in touch with nature and arts within this oasis of Bangkok", according to the CEA website. Most of the performing arts shows are held at weekends, and this past weekend I attended two hugely enjoyable performances by Anatta Lakhon Chatri Troupe in the park's amphitheatre.
Several months ago, I went to my local barber in Klong Toey for a quick haircut and was very fortunate to bump into a Lakhon Chatri performance by artists from the Fine Arts Department, just around the corner from the barbers. The Klong Toey community hires a troupe every year to bring good fortune. Anatta Lakhon's award-winning artistic director, Pradit Prasartthong, explained after the performance that the show I had previously seen was the traditional version, known as lakhon chatri.
Lakhon is generally used as a term for "dance drama", and when a modifier is added this usually refers to a sub-genre found in different regions and audiences. The Garland Handbook of Southeast Asian Music notes that lakhon may have developed from southern Thai (manora of manora chatri) and/or is of Khmer roots; the former may go right back to the funeral of King Rama I. Eventually, two genres of importance emerged, lakhon nawk (outside lakhon, ie outside the court) and lakhon nai (inside lakhon or inside the court). When first shown, lakhon nai was performed by women and lakhon nawk by men.
In his captivating introduction, Pradit said the style the troupe performs is called lakhon puen bahn or folk (local) lakhon. It is similar to lakhon nawk but performed without a stage or backdrop. A small ensemble features ching (small temple cymbals), chap (wooden clappers), drums and pii nai (northern Thai oboe). The musicians and performers also act as a chorus during song interludes (often pleng na phat songs, similar to those in likay and lakhon nawk).
The performance by the Anatta troupe was based on a popular lakhon chatri drama, Letter Of Death, but reimagined as a contemporary satire. The ad-libs and jokes rattled around the Benjakitti amphitheatre amid an appreciative audience (a young boy sitting next to me was bent double with laughter for most of the hour-long performance). I certainly did not understand all the jokes, but local lakhon fans explained to me some of the more difficult ones. And there was plenty of audience interaction, too, the cast members enjoying banter with park visitors.
Anatta Lakhon Chatri Troupe.
The show featured more than hilarity. The action was fast-paced as well, although the heat seemed to take a toll on performers and audience members.
I have been to a few events at Benjakitti Forest Park, which is my local green space, among them a jazz performance, and I do hope more events like the one by Anatta are organised in the future.
Most workshops and performances are held each weekend (the next are scheduled for April 22-23, usually in late afternoon. However, you can enjoy five installations -- The Circle Biogenesis 2023 by Suriya Umnpansiriratana, House Of Silence by Sanitas Pradittassanee, Stingless Bee City by Wit Pimkanchanapong, Hornbill Villa by Nino Sarabutra and The Center Of The Universe by Pok Kobkongsanti -- at any time.
Workshop types range from Thai dancercise, to yoga, to painting with soil and plants. More information on the "Unfolding Bangkok" programme can be found online, while the current schedule is posted at various points around the park. Head to cea.or.th or facebook.com/CreativeEconomyAgency.
John Clewley can be contacted at clewley.john@gmail.com.
