Nam pla, or fish sauce, is ubiquitous in Thai gastronomy.
Not only is it an indispensable item in local kitchens, but a lifesaver for many Thais travelling overseas.
However, in recent years, the salty condiment has played an unfavourable part in Thailand's social issues.
Despite the fact that khao khlook nam pla (rice sprinkled with fish sauce) has long been a household culinary comfort, the dish is often synonymous with a poor diet and depicts financial destitution.
A report on a school lunch that consisted of rice, a boiled egg and fish sauce a few months ago generated discussion over whether meals served at state-run schools were nutritious.
Meanwhile, as the Ministry of Public Health attempts to promote a healthy diet, fish sauce is among foods associated with high sodium intake.
FISH SAUCE: VILLAIN OR HERO?
A liquid seasoning that provides saltiness to a dish may be a typical perception of fish sauce. Yet, experts say that fish sauce is more than just a briny gastronomic rescue.
"First we have to understand what nam pla really is," said scientist Jetsada Wichaphon, one of the researchers who has studied the characteristics of Thai fish sauce.
"It simply is a liquid product of fermenting raw fish material in salt at ambient temperatures for a long period of time.
"Salt is used as an agent to help stabilise the fermentation. And despite the word nam [water] in the name, no water is added in the process. So what you have is basically a fish protein solubilised by natural enzymes."
Then, Jetsada added, we need to identify what fish sauce is not.
According to him, fish sauce is made from fish and no other seafood or protein sources.
Pla kratak (commerson's anchovy), a small schooling ocean fish, is the most common material for fish sauce in Thailand, especially in commercial manufacturing.
Meanwhile, pla soi (minnow), a small freshwater fish, is used by small-scale producers living near rivers or canals.
There are levels of grading fish sauce. The highest quality is the first batch of the amber-hued matured liquid -- the pure base -- after an appropriate fermentation period, ranging from six to 24 months.
The lower quality ones are made by adding water and salt to the base and marketed as the cheaper-grade fish sauce.
Today more than 100 brands of fish sauce are sold in local markets, with US$82 million (2.9 billion baht) in export value.
Among the top-tier brands are Megachef, Royal Squid Brand, Abalone Brand, Oyster Brand and Dragon's Cuisine. While the first four brands are products of eastern provinces, the latter is made in the western province of Ratchaburi with single-origin freshwater fish from the Pa Sak Chonlasit reservoir.
"A good fish sauce is defined by protein content and maturity of the aroma, which generates the umami flavour," Jetsada explained.
"Nam pla should be appreciated not for its saline taste but umami-ness. Don't you think rice sprinkled with fish sauce is delicious?" he asked.
"You get carbohydrates from the rice, and protein, fatty acid and vitamin B from the fish sauce. Fairly, it's quite a wholesome meal, and fish sauce should never be perceived as detrimental."
For concerns over sodium intake, Jetsada claimed that the amount of sodium consumed through fish sauce is very small compared to that from other food sources.
ONE FISH SAUCE DOES NOT FIT ALL
"Nam pla should not be seen as an easy fix for everything. It should be treasured as an element that adds a graceful complement to Thai cuisine," said Niphatchanok Najpinij, a lecturer in food culture and gastronomy at Suan Dusit University.
"The demand for flavour enhancement in history came about following agrarian civilisation. Since then, food has become more of an appreciation than just a provision, while seasonings have played vital roles in society, economy and culture," she said.
Vietnam, Japan and the Philippines are countries well-known for producing the "liquid gold" seasoning. Yet Niphatchanok sees no point in trying to classify fish sauces according to their geographic birthplace.
"Fish sauce should have no classified borders, especially in Southeast Asia where we share the same cultural roots and geographical conditions," she said.
"We harvest from the same body of water and cook recipes that may have been passed on from the same origin. So why bother to claim whose fish sauce is better?"
In fact, when it comes to fish sauce in Thai cuisine, Niphatchanok said that our strong point is not the culinary component of the sauce but the art of using it.
"The way we eat sumrup [traditional Thai sharing meal] allows us to understand the aesthetic value of the food, by slowly embracing different elements while being grateful for the natural produce," she said.
"Urbanisation has led people today to live a fast-paced life. We don't just eat fast, but also rather abuse condiments."
She explained that one fish sauce, especially that of premium quality, should never be used as an accompaniment to all dishes in the same meal. Otherwise, it would weaken the distinctive characteristics of each dish.
Thai food, according to her, is cherished for its complex depths of flavours. Thus, ideally, fish sauce, due to its saline intensity, should serve as a condiment and not be the central focus of a recipe.
"The sauce must support, correlate and allow the dish to stand out. The overwhelmingness of flavours, no matter how great they are, would impair our sensory receptors, leading to an incapacity to appreciate the well-rounded subtlety," Niphatchanok said.
Of course, just like fine wines, different fish sauces go best with different dishes, she noted.
"It has been proved through blind tastings that fish sauces from different manufacturers have very distinctive taste profiles."
According to her, one fish sauce may be an unpleasant table condiment, but it can, in the kitchen, help seasoning a curry perfectly.
"There are foodies who believe that a particular fish sauce should only go with a particular recipe. You can call that finickiness. But being finical is a foundation for cultivating a strong asset, and shaping the experts. Thai food could not be 'the cuisine of the world' without scrupulous authorities."
Although agreeing that the seemingly thoughtless khao khlook nam pla can be a palatable indulgence, Niphatchanok said that the temperature of the rice must be right.
"You cannot just hastily splash any fish sauce on tepid rice. The fish sauce should be of good quality and the rice must be warm. The heat will open your gastronomic receptors and better convey the aroma of the fish sauce in your mouth."
Meanwhile, Jetsada shared a final piece of advice.
"Fish sauce is best consumed within two years. Prolonged storage may lead to a browning reaction which will cause unpleasant colour and odour. Keeping it in the refrigerator might help preserve the quality. But, believe me, fish sauce is made for consumption, not for storing."
