Thanks to the scenic Burapha-Chonlathit road (featured in this column a long while ago), Chanthaburi has become a popular destination for cyclists, especially roadies. However, despite the beautiful view of the coastline, riding long distance on paved surfaces may not be so appealing to mountain bikers. Not many people know that this eastern province has a hidden gem that's arguably more challenging.
Located about 40km north of Chanthaburi downtown, the Khiri Than dam is perched among the hills at over 200m above mean sea level, the man-made lake feeds flowing water via an underground tunnel to spin the turbines of a small hydroelectric power plant on lower ground. More relevant to biking is the fact that its roughly triangular-shaped reservoir comes with a paved road on one side and off-road tracks on the other two. This gives us a looped route that features not just a variety of biking conditions but also refreshing views of the lake from all directions.
There are many spots you can choose to start your ride. To make it easy to understand for first-timers to the area, let's begin from the west trailhead located on Road 3299, about 9km off Highway 317 (co-ordinates are provided in the information box). From there you can either hit the dirt track right away and ride the loop clockwise, or continue on the asphalt road first and go anti-clockwise. You can bike as many rounds on this route as your time and stamina allow. Switching ride direction instantly changes the trail into a new one.
I chose to go counter-clockwise simply because I could use the on-road section for warming myself up.
Not far down Road 3299, which runs along the south side of the reservoir, you'll find on your left a minor road that leads to a lakeside camping ground, another good option for a start point. About 2km from there is the dam site. You can either continue on the 3299 or bike along the dam's ridge all the way to the other end and re-emerge on the road.
Before long you'll run into a small community and another side road branching off the 3299. Follow this smaller road (referred to in the information box as the southeast trailhead). Its paved surface soon gives way to a dirt track that runs around the reservoir before it finally meets Road 3299 again at the west trailhead.
This 18km off-road section of the loop takes bikers up and down hillsides through plantations and orchards where durian, salak, banana and myriads of other fruits are cultivated. When I was there the durian fruits were not yet ready for harvest. But in the next few weeks they sure will. And that's why May and June are a great time for durian lovers to visit Chanthaburi. Be warned though that eating durian right before biking or any kind of exercise is an extremely bad idea. The consequence could even be fatal, especially when the workout is done under the sun, because the fruit will make you feel very hot inside. Save the "King of Thai fruits" as a reward for yourself after the ride and make sure you don't have it with beer because that too is harmful to your health.
Well, see you here again next Thursday. Until then, if you have questions, news or biking insights you wish to share, email to pongpetm@bangkokpost.co.th or go to Freewheel Bangkok community page on Facebook.
Pongpet Mekloy is the Bangkok Post's travel editor and a mountain bike freak.
Khiri Than Dam
GPS co-ordinates:
West trailhead: 12°45'32.33" N 102°18'57.72" E
Southeast trailhead: 12°44'17.64" N 102°21'24.77" E
Camping ground: 12°45'15.67" N 102°19'50.94" E
Trail condition: On- and off-road.
Distance: The loop is about 24km long.
Getting there: From the city of Chanthaburi, take Highway 3 (Sukhumvit) eastward to the nearby Pak Saeng three-way junction, then turn left onto Highway 317. Follow the 317 for 20km and you'll find on your right Road 3299, the access road to Khiri Than Dam.
Parking: You can leave your car at a shrine next the west trailhead or at the dam's camping ground.
Food & drinks: In the lake area, there's no decent shop, let alone restaurant. Do make sure you bring enough supplies.
What your family can enjoy while waiting: Nothing.
Accommodation: Pitching a tent at the camping ground by the reservoir is a good idea, especially is you also enjoy stargazing because at night the site is virtually free of interfering city light. For those who prefer better comfort and convenience, hotels and resorts can be found in Chanthaburi's downtown and seaside areas.
