Bangkok is a city filled with beautiful architecture and monuments, both old and new. Yet behind the veil of this city's beauty and elegance, off the well travelled tourist tracks there are some sites that hold a hidden history. Keep your eyes open for these easy to miss sites. Who knows? This knowledge may even impress some locals. Here are six unusual monuments or effigies you'll find in Thailand.
Bomb Shelter at Asiatique
Only steps from the festive lights of Asiatique The Riverfront on Charoen Krung Road, hidden in plain sight and near KFC, there sits a peculiar remnant from a darker era of Bangkok. During the Japanese occupation of Thailand, Bangkok was locked firmly in the grip of the Japanese Empire and subject to periodic aerial attacks. During those four years of subjugation, Bangkok was a key launch point for Japanese operations in both Myanmar and Malaysia, with Thai railways and infrastructure at the mercy of numerous allied bombardments.
Photo: Pattarachai Preechapanich
Photo: asiatiquethailand.com
Photo: Patipat Janthong
Sitting above ground (whose idea was this?), with just enough room for a few dozen people, this bomb shelter most likely provided civilians with protection during several allied raids. You see, the whole area where the riverside mall sits now used to be a port operated by East Asiatic Company before Japanese soldiers seized it. The plaque on the front of the bomb shelter tells another tale, describing how the whole site was used as a base for Japanese soldiers to possibly stash stolen valuables. You can also find a century-old house, not too far from the Asiatique Sky Ferris Wheel, which is said to be a former customs office.
Today the bomb shelter stands partly as a memorial and serves as a dim reminder of the unpredictable nature of war. Although, if Bangkok was to ever fall under an aerial attack, this bomb shelter would probably be the last place you'd hide.
Neilson Hays Library
Originally established in 1869 by the Ladies' Bazaar Association, which went on to become the Ladies' Library Association, this historic gem of colonial influence served as an intellectual hub for the English speaking community of nineteenth century Bangkok. In the year 1900, missionary Jennie Neilson Hays became extremely involved in the financial expansion of the library and eventually served as the president from 1914 until her death in 1920. She died from cholera, even though her husband Dr Thomas Heyward Hays (ironically enough) was the chief of the Royal Thai Navy Hospital. Dr Hays had been married to her since 1887 and was devastated by her passing.
Photo: Catherine Faulder
Photo: Pornprom Satrabhaya
Photo: Pornprom Satrabhaya
In an act of heartfelt generosity, he bequeathed the building and the entire property in Bang Rak it currently sits on in her memory. Today the Neilson Hays library still functions as an axis of knowledge, art and music. However, the building is in urgent need of restoration and crowdfunding campaigns through Asiola is currently calling for the support of Bangkokians to help conserve and renovate the building. To ensure the love Dr Hays had for his wife lives on, we hope the library receives all the funds it needs to live on.
Shrine of Mae Nak Phra Khanong
Photos: Giulio Di Sturco/International Herald Tribune
The tale of Mae Nak is one of love and loss, deeply woven into the fabric of local folklore. Legend has it that during the reign of King Rama IV there was a couple who were madly in love living along the edges of the Phra Khanong canal. The husband, Mak, was called for military service and sent to fight in the Shan states, leaving behind his pregnant wife Nak. While Mak was away at war, Nak died from complications during childbirth along with the baby at their home. Mak was seriously wounded during combat and was sent home after recovering. Upon his return home, he finds both Nak and their baby alive and well in their house. His neighbours attempt to warn him that his wife and child had died and these beings in the house are ghosts. Those neighbours are swiftly killed one by one. One evening, Nak is preparing nam phrik (the chilli-based dip we know and love) when a lime rolls off the front porch. She elongates her arms to retrieve the lime. Petrified at the sight of this, Mak knew she was a ghost and created a plan to flee. In the middle of the night he excuses himself to urinate outside and makes a break for a temple. Nak ghost runs amok on the village terrorising inhabitants for spilling the beans to Mak until she is captured by a monk who confines her to a clay pot and throws it into the river. Different accounts of the aftermath have suggested the pot was found and she released, only to be re-captured and sent to her next life.
A shrine is dedicated to her at Wat Mahabut on Sukhumvit Soi 77. Offerings of dresses and children's toys are made in exchange for the hopes of an easy childbirth, exemption of military conscription and of course -- winning lottery numbers!
Shrine of Boon Peng
This next tale is proof people will worship just about anything. The shrine of a murderer known as Boon Peng is a pale reflection of his truly grotesque horror story. During the period of King Rama VI, there lived a "rogue" monk with some unorthodox practices and followers. The story goes he gained the trust of a young woman and lured her into his sanctuary only to take her life and stuff her into small a metal box, throwing the box into the river (can we give the river a break already?). He was rightfully caught and condemned for his crimes. It turned out she was not his first victim and he was immediately sentenced for execution via beheading. This is where it gets interesting. Before the execution, he cast a spell on the executioner, warning that his first sword swing wouldn't get the job done. Sure enough, his first attempt was a miss. However, the second swing was swift and conclusive.
Photo: board.postjung.com
His last remarks have been remembered through time and recognised by those who believe in the supernatural; enough to the point that there is a small shrine at Wat Pasee in Bangkok to acknowledge his premonition. Coincidence is the key to this tale -- maybe the executioner was having an off day?
Pumpuang Duangjan Statues
Photo: Sathien Thuamchan
An iconic Thai superstar of many decades, Pumpuang Duangjan went from farm to fame within a matter of years. Born into a poor rural family in central Thailand, her story begins as a very young girl being pulled from primary school to help her family tend to fields of sugarcane. Young and illiterate, she still managed to memorise lyrics of popular songs, and began expressing her vocal abilities at local singing competitions and festivals. At only 15 years of age, she moved to Bangkok, with the help of legendary luk thung performer Waiphot Phetsuphan, and began performing and recording, rising to meteoric heights of fame within a few short years, harmonising traditional luk thung with a contemporary pop music style. As great as she was, this supernova was allegedly taken advantage of by some people in the industry as well as her love interests. She also had her fair share of drama and scandals too, one of which was the murder of her former husband by her younger brother. After being diagnosed with lupus in March 1992, her health quickly went from bad to worse and she passed away in June of the same year. This gifted singer is a legendary Thai pop culture icon who connected with millions by singing of her rural roots and universalising this new breed of luk thung into Thai society.
Recognised as a symbol of success, especially for working class migrants with big city dreams, Pumpuang Duangjan has been immortalised at her own shrine with six sculptures at Wat Thap Kradan in Suphan Buri. But you don't have to go far if you miss her because, the seventh statue in her likeness is at Madame Tussauds Bangkok. She is regarded as a symbol of good luck and her guidance is requested often, especially by lottery players! However, we don't think you should wai the one at Madame Tussauds.
Pig Shrine
There stands, nonchalantly next to Rop Krung Canal in the Rattanakosin Island, a confidently poised and bronzed pig. An odd statue to revere, it's actually symbolic of Her Royal Majesty Queen Sri Phatcharinthra, a beloved wife of Rama V. Gifted to her on her fiftieth birthday (in 1913), the pig was chosen because her majesty was born in the year of the pig, along with the three individuals who funded the project, including Prince Narissara Nuwattiwong who came up with the design himself. Today the memorial is used to venerate the late queen who is still held in high esteem by locals, as well as anyone born in the year of the pig.
Photo: Apichart Jinakul
Make merit for those born in the year of the pig and pay homage to the hog by finding it erect on Rachini Alley. The application of flower garlands and gold-leaf to this cosmic character's head is the norm.
