How the "New Normal" became the pseudonormal

The world, and more specifically the dining industry, was expected to experience a full blown sci-fi like rebirth called the "New Normal". The internet became laced with scenes of a future dystopian world; 3D rendering of glass dome protectors appeared and were followed by actual glasshouse restaurants that were developed in the furthest corners of Europe.

Yet it didn't really hit home until what viral news and social media envisaged had become a disturbing reality. One famous Thai barbeque franchise allowed their customers to enjoy single hotpots with their significant other through a hole in a plexiglass partition while other single diners were seated across from stuffed animals or lifelike dolls. Thailand had not only witnessed but experienced glimpses of a foreseeable future living and dining with a pandemic.

But the country did slowly unfold from the choke hold of COVID-19. Curfews were finally lifted, alcohol was to be served in restaurants once again and social distancing seating rules slowly dissipated. The new world was actually starting to look more like… well, a few months ago. At least for the untrained eye and for those who were yet to grasp the full damage of the COVID-19 aftermath.

Tortilla Quemada

Albeit, that things appeared to reset from new normal to an old normal, restaurateurs, chefs and food and beverage professionals could argue that an underlying shift in the restaurant model, service sector and customer behaviour has acutely affected the restaurant industry DNA and will never quite be the same again.

Thailand's beloved Bo.lan restaurant, No.19 among Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2019 and 1 Michelin star, has become a prime example. Bo.lan Chef and owners, Chef Dylan Jones and Chef Duangporn "Bo" Songvisava, decided to adapt their multi-award winning restaurant into a space for multiple uses. The couple plan to move "Err", their casual eatery into Bo.lan, which will also offer a chef's table style service a few times a week. Although resilient restaurants like Bo.lan may not completely disappear they could be required to morph into something more suitable for the social demands and current times in order to reopen.

Chef Dylan professed, "It's not so much that we've decided to but more the fact we've been forced too, with social distancing rules, the uncertainty of the future, new consumer behaviours, it's not possible to operate as we did before hence the decision to only offer a Bo.lan chefs table and move Err in!"

Haoma

Not mentioning the insurmountable costs and losses occurred during a restaurant shutdown, reopening can only come at the great sacrifices.

Chef Deepanker "DK" Khosla, Chef and Owner of Haoma, an urban farm restaurant in Sukhumvit 31, and winner of Elite 2019 Restaurant of the Year, noted the biggest costs suffered by restaurants, "One of the most important costs is manpower, which is largely not seen or noticed by the guest as they don't really know what's going on behind the doors."

Although manpower may decrease, maximising existing manpower and cost-cutting will be expected to increase. What does this mean? It means that with less staff and less purchasing power, whatever can be made in-house or locally sourced is adopted and whatever is outsourced and non-essential is downgraded or discarded. Most diners are not likely to notice that the extra condiments in their meals have disappeared, that Japanese snow fish was replaced with local seabass, or even that the silky toilet paper had become scratchy.

Bo and Dylan

Co-Founder/Co-Owner/Executive Chef at Ash Kickers Foods and Chef/Owner Chef Colin Stevens of the new Tortilla Quemada takeaway restaurant in Sukhumvit 23, remarked that, "For TQ the whole business model is focused around a downsized operation such as smaller footprint, low rent but great location, less staff, lower overheads. It really is just all about the food. Everything is made in house, by our own hands, using quality ingredients. I think this last point will play a big part in deciding which restaurants survive these difficult times or not."

Still on the subject of manpower, the saving and efficiency model will apply directly to service staff, as availability of work becomes scarce and competition more fierce.

Chef DK explained, "In Thailand, due to availability of cheap labour, we tend to always overlook maximizing the potential of our existing staff. For example in Australia or Europe they already work with minimal staffing but with maximizing output. I think chefs and restaurants should focus on training and skill building more than multi hiring."

If there is anyone who understands the local service industry, it's Justin Dunne, GM Restaurant & Bars, KIMPTON Maa-Lai, Bangkok, who agreed by saying, "Venues will try to get more out of staff with less manning than before, but that's the way it should always have been. There's some hope in the industry that the pandemic will help increase the overall standards of hospitality by having more focused and diligent crews rather than larger but mediocre teams."

Justin Dunne

Another grand shift that may go unnoticed is the online presence of independent restaurants. There will be less of vying and buying for digital space. With marketing cuts, some are looking to revert to traditional and offline marketing methods; flyers in their local areas, relying on friends support and simple word of mouth techniques. The entire industry could be looking at a more even playing field when battling for the top spot.

Chef Dylan adds, "We will try to grow our marketing organically and internally and to engage with our customers more directly through many channels and yes we hope word or mouth plays a large part of this, we won't be investing truckloads of cash, but in more time for sure!"

Justin takes the view that although marketing is essential for hotels the mind-set of targeting will certainly change. "There will need to be some serious marketing investments, but word-of-mouth will still be King," he says. "We've become less trusting overall of big campaigns and want the more humanistic, trusted voice of your friend's recommendation. We're hungry for 'real'."

We would also be ignorant not to acknowledge that restaurant and chef accolades are synonymous with restaurant marketing. It was felt at some point, Bangkok's fine restaurants were at the mercy of who and who did not receive an award. Chef DK acknowledged that they are still as important as ever: "Recognition leads to diner trust which drives traffic to restaurants."

Many awards institutions and academies have clearly quietened throughout the COVID-19 crisis, particularly during the early stages where chefs openly expressed their grave disappointment with the institutions on their Instagram. With less attention and spotlight on restaurant lists, will customers be left to haphazardly explore and make their own decisions on who is 'The Best' or deserves Star status?

"It's never been important to us!" Exclaims Chef Dylan, "Lists are at best subjective and especially these days, the more well-known accolades are corrupted by financial motives more than supporting our industry. Sure accolades are great and feel nice to receive but you're only as good as the last meal you've served."

Justin believes their impact to be radically reduced, "It will always hold some importance, but not nearly as much as before. I think we'll see more interest in awards that really highlight so much more than the cooking themselves – photography, culinary journalism, giving back to the community, delivery."

But it's not the lack of accolade hype that is still keeping many seats empty. The 'Stay at Home' movement had a successful long-lasting effect. Customers are now accustomed to the easy, convenient and more 'safe' option of the delivery and takeaway culture. Yet this time around, operators are prepared for it.

Chef Colin is one of those who planned ahead: "I also have gambled further on the thought that this boom in delivery and take away is here to stay. To that effect, I am opening a new Mexican restaurant. It is only take away and delivery, no on-site dining, and it's all about the food. I think you will see more of these types of restaurants come on line where it's a blend of quality food, quick service and no fuss."

Justin's plans for KIMPTON Maa-Lai F&B outlets will also resonate with casual models but also with a focus on sustainability: "Local suppliers and products, non-traditional dining spaces that feature a lot of privacy while simultaneously offering grocery and multiple take-away options and several casual, comfort led outlets."

So where does this leave the opulent experience for traditional fine dining restaurants in Bangkok?

Chef Colin Chef Colin appears to express little sympathy, saying, "I think the days of fine dining restaurants being somewhat over pretentious are coming to an end. We are already seeing this just in the fact that so many restaurants scrambled to offer their food through delivery, a scenario that was scoffed at for so long."

Justin notes that the problem lies in finance, noting: "Until the economy rebounds and tourism is back, I think 'fine-dining' will face a harder struggle than more casual, comfort-led eateries."

Chef Dylan summed up the scenario with: "Every industry has been affected by this some more negatively than others. It's clear to us that restaurant dining isn't an essential part of life. Granted it's one of life's great pleasures and we really hope to see a vibrant dining scene in the future but I suspect it will take some time to come back. Financially, people are hurting. Also it's slightly nerve racking walking into a room full of strangers right now."

With much uncertainty about the future, Bangkok restaurants will reopen with the appeal of 'business as usual' but looking deeper into the cracks, the 'normal' that the public once knew is a version created at the mercy of budgets and of customer's new wants and needs. Thus now is the time more than ever to practice patience and understanding.

Samantha Proyrungtong, an Australian born with Thai heritage, is a well-known 'foodies' entrepreneur based in Bangkok who runs her own specialty food business (VIVIN Grocery, Ekamai Complex, Tel. 080 463 5747) and marketing consulting company (Extrovert Marketing Consulting) and is founder of BangkokFoodies.com and FoodiesOfficialAsia.com.

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