Anyone who has visited Jhol probably has lingering memories of the mini appams (with spicy jackfruit meat and kaffir lime cream) and the soft maska buns served with a pav bhaji flavoured butter. It is time for another visit to make more pleasant memories as the restaurant serves up a new menu.
The menu follows a theme similar to the previous one, containing dishes conceptualised by chef Hari Nayak, that are based on regional cuisines from the 7,516km-long coastline of India. An amuse-bouche in the form of papdi (a deep-fried cracker) topped with pickled beet, kaffir lime yoghurt and curry leaf powder kicks things off with its delicately tangy flavour. The dish that follows, the Wild bass crudo (B370), is also pleasingly mild. Ribbons of raw sea bass are topped with green mango and crispy ginger and dressed simply in coriander oil and coconut milk.
The Tofu paniyaram (B320) makes the perfect appetiser. The ball-shaped dumpling will remind you of takoyaki, but the composition of it is different. Paniyaram is from South India and is made with fermented black lentils and rice batter. The addition of tofu at Jhol results in a dumpling that has a less crispy crust but it is still very enjoyable, especially with the coconut chutney and lentil salad that accompanies it.
The fish and shellfish dishes produce many wow-worthy moments. One of them is the Coal roasted sea bass (B1,290), a butterflied fish fillet that is encrusted neatly in a layer of dried coconut relish and grilled, resulting in firm, succulent white flesh. The fish is served with fish mappas (a coconut and tomato based curry) that offers light notes of spice and sweetness. It is best enjoyed with basmati. Another hit would be Rawa crusted prawns (B790). Butterflied prawns are blanketed with rawa (semolina), before getting chargrilled and slathered with flavourful, tangy pulimunchi gravy, made with chillies and tamarind.
Coconut jaggery mousse.
Coal roasted seabass.
Rawa crusted prawns.
Fans of lamb will be delighted with the Lamb chops (B1,200), served with potato podimas (spicy mashed potato sautéed with onion and green chillies) and Chettinad-style kurma (vegetables braised in flavourful coconut milk to produce a thick gravy).
As for dessert, Jhol serves a beautiful Coconut jaggery mousse (B290), which has a lovely smoky, caramel-y flavour thanks to the addition of jaggery (an unrefined sugar that contains a significant amount of molasses). It is served alongside coconut ice cream and turmeric-infused cream.
While the prices here may not be too friendly to the wallet, dining at Jhol gives you an eating experience that is truly unique, both in terms of flavour and food concept. If you are looking for an Indian restaurant that offers dishes that are less commonplace than the familiar chicken tikka masala, biryani and aloo gobi, this is the place for you.
Jhol, Sukhumvit 18 / Open daily noon-10.30pm / Call 02-004-7174, visit www.jholrestaurant.com.
