Nothing gets you through the day like a cup of coffee, whether to kickstart your morning or keep you awake all day long. Many might see coffee as just another caffeinated drink, regardless of how it is brewed, with little or no thought to its origins.
In celebration of International Coffee Day tomorrow, Guru is honouring the drink with the story of coffee in Thai history. We speak to coffee experts, who run coffee academies, to discuss the Thai coffee scene and a list of crash courses for aspiring baristas and coffee snobs.
When did Thais start drinking coffee?
According to silpa-mag.com, coffee has been deep-rooted in Thailand since the Ayutthaya period or the 14th century. Back then coffee was only drunk by Moors and Persian Muslims. By being served in more fancy drinkware called "the modern cup", which is a Western coffee cup with a saucer, the caffeinated drink made its way to the royal palace. According to an MGR Online article about the birth of coffee in Thailand, coffee was favoured among nobles during the reign of King Rama III in the Rattanakosin era. It was popular enough that the King ordered the royal initiative to start a coffee plantation on palace grounds. In the eyes of laypeople, coffee was thought of as a bitter medicine brought by foreigners. In a few years, despite the coffee plantation's lack of fruition since it wasn't a cash crop like rice or sugarcane, drinking coffee became more prevalent.
Fast forward to the era of King Rama IV and Thailand gets its first shop in the heart of Bangkok's old town. Named Cafe Narasingh, the first Western-style coffee shop was operated by Chao Phraya Ram Rakop. It was set up to be a meeting place for upper-class people to unwind. Other noteworthy coffee shops that whisk you off to the good old days are Silom's Tung Who Store and On Lok Yun on Charoen Krung Road.
ANUWAT "OH" KOBNAMPETCH
Founder of the School of Coffee Flavorist (Socof) and permanent secretary of the Ministry of Roasters
- What is the Socof?
The global coffee trend is divided into waves, with coffee snobs being the trendsetters. Each wave represents the purpose of coffee drinking, not to mention the brewing method that gradually progressed with time and technology. The Thai coffee scene is influenced by the United States in terms of coffee drinking. In the early 19th century, the only purpose of drinking coffee, specifically black coffee, was to keep people functional at work. The second wave portrays how the cafe-hopping culture happened, as that was when the coffee chain shops bloomed, and the cafe was one of the favourite places to hang out. The third wave started in the 20th century. It was the era when coffee snobs were getting serious about how their favourite cups were made. We are now in the fifth wave, where ordering a cup of coffee is not the same or simple, as you can customise your coffee, along with brewing techniques and coffee blends. I describe the School of Coffee Flavorist as 'the coffee academy of the new age'. We teach aspiring baristas the roots of coffee while offering them crash courses on brewing and roasting manually and with advanced machines.
- Describe the present Thai coffee scene.
A cup of coffee brings people together. Over the past few years, many turned themselves into home-brewers, especially during the lockdown when people on social media flexed their latte art and new coffee gadgets. We also have coffee shops and cafes popping up on every corner, offering not only good coffee but also photogenic spots to check in and a place to work from anywhere. It shows how the coffee industry in Thailand has evolved. Through the change, coffee is accessible to everyone. At the same time, we have a chance to find out what is under the iceberg, as there is much more to learn from a cup of coffee. Importantly, today's technology, combined with the curiosity and passion of people, helps us dig deeper into the roots of coffee.
- Where does locally-grown coffee stand?
Honestly, in terms of quality, the Thai coffee bean is second to none. We hold a 'trump card' as producers and consumers, which means we can research and develop the finest breeds ourselves. However, our weakness is the capacity to grow and produce coffee because of geographic restrictions. That is why we barely see Thai coffee beans used widely, like Ethiopian or Brazilian coffee, as those countries are the world's leading coffee exporters.
(Photos: Socof)
- What advice would you give aspiring baristas?
Coffee is fascinating. You can learn new things every day. Do not be tough on yourself. Keep learning and having fun with it.
- Describe your perfect cup of coffee.
I do not have a specific blend, but my favourite cup is about the people I am with.
With easy access to BTS Punnawithi, Socof has four main courses, which are: coffee flavourist introduction, home-brewing, home-roasting and cupping. For intermediates, they offer training courses with international degree certificates, guaranteed by the Global Coffee School (GCS) and The Specialty Coffee Association (SCA).
NATTAWAT "NATT" MUANGSIRI
Managing director of Espresso Academy Thailand
- What got you into coffee?
I was a full-time pilot before setting my course for coffee. While flying, I tasted coffee from around the world. I am in love with the complexity of coffee, which has endless possibilities to discover. I founded Espresso Academy Thailand in 2018 to teach proper coffee education with a focus on speciality coffee.
- Describe the present Thai coffee scene.
I still consider myself a newbie in the Thai coffee scene. However, I have found out that the industry has been growing pretty fast since I started in 2016. Back then, finding a crash course for speciality coffee was rare. With the coming of technology, coffee education is more accessible now. At Espresso Academy Thailand, we always find the most cutting-edge coffee machines and tools to keep our students up to date with the current brewing and roasting processes.
- Where does locally-grown coffee stand?
Firstly, Thais should accept our homegrown coffee without bias. Do not be blinded by the word 'imported'. You have to believe in Thai coffee and be open-minded about it.
(Photos: Espresso Academy Thailand)
- What advice would you give aspiring baristas?
Find out what you really like about coffee. Becoming a barista isn't the only career when involved with coffee. You can be a coffee flavourist or an expert in coffee roasting. Take a basic course in the field that you are interested in first, then you can take it more seriously after finding your own path. There is a lot to learn about coffee.
- Describe your perfect cup of coffee.
I have plenty of favourite coffees, but my top three are espresso, cappuccino and espresso martini. My favourite coffee is Ethiopian. I visited a coffee shop in Brussels, Belgium, where all the baristas there are Ethiopian and they serve only their homegrown coffee beans while brewing coffee using traditional Ethiopian techniques. I was intrigued by how coffee can represent people and cultures.
No experience, no problem. The Espresso Academy Thailand, a coffee institution on the 3rd floor of Seacon Square on Srinagarindra Road, offers a crash course on becoming a professional barista focusing on the Italian traditional brewing style. The academy is one of a few coffee institutions in Thailand that is certified with the Latte Art Grading System, where you can earn a certificate in latte art.
