In the mood for something upscale? These new openings along Sukhumvit give a fresh, creative spin to traditional flavours.
Chef Sujira 'Aom' Pongmorn.
Innovative Thai food at Khaan
The latest opening in Soi Somkid, Khaan is another name to jot down for those in the mood for innovative Thai cuisine and all the theatrics that come with a fancy meal. Photogenic amuse bouche showpiece? Check. Infused foam and a fish fillet with at least three different layers? Check. Helmed by chef Sujira "Aom" Pongmorn, a rising star and recipient of the inaugural Michelin Guide Young Chef Award in 2021, this elegant restaurant set in a renovated white and maroon house offers an 11-course tasting menu inspired by street food from all regions, as well as recipes from the palace. Unlike her previous masterpiece, Saawaan, which had a Michelin star from 2019-2022, chef Aom reveals that Khaan differs with much more fiery flavours. Alongside an authentic Thai palate, what's striking are the laborious dry-ageing and fermentation techniques that definitely add a wow factor to the dishes, even more so for cooking nerds.
Khaan's petit fours inspired by Thai sweets.
The dishes featured on the tasting menu are uncommon delicacies from far-flung corners of Thailand, while others are classics that have been given a creative twist. Nothing is basic here. Chef Aom introduces culinary inventiveness to a common favourite like galangal soup. The soup deliciously features a creamy, juicy oyster (rather than chicken) and also gets its sourness from juices of a lacto-fermented king oyster mushroom. It's enthralling how no limes were used to produce this soup. Another course that brings depth is khao pun puk, a northern snack of rice wrap with vegetable fillings. The term dry-aged may usually be for steaks, but it's used for the turnip stuffing in this case. Bringing a lean and crunchy mouthfeel to the root vegetable, the staff amusingly compares the technique's result to a "turnip that went to the gym". As the staff also bring a tray of vegetables or pickled fare to your table, the dinner offers knowledge and food for the brain as well as the stomach. Get a taste of how local ingredients are given an upscale and innovative treatment at Khaan before the Michelin (or World's Best Restaurants) hype arrives and getting reservations becomes a chore.
A crab curry steamed egg amuse-bouche at Khaan.
Chef-patron Rohit Sharma of Tapori.
Uncover hidden Indian gems at Tapori
At Tapori, even Indians are likely to see food they've probably never seen in India. The latest Indian restaurant to join Bangkok's dining scene, situated in Sukhumvit 47, steers far from generic basics like butter chicken and features dishes that span the breadth of India's 28 diverse states. From uncharted territories in the Himalayas to the coast of Kerala, delicacies come in both small and large plates meant to be shared. The flavours are authentic, but fanciful plating is a highlight here, where flowers, dots of chutney and geometric crisps bring an enchanting touch to each plate. A delicious case in point is dal pakwan, a Sindhi brunch of lentils served under a beautifully-decorated crispy flatbread dotted with yoghurt, coriander and chutney. You can also expect a solid selection of curries, with the creamy cauliflower and beetroot gobi mussallam a good pick for something on the lighter side. The restaurant does not dabble with fusion, but their chicken liver ice cream with crispy dosa crumble is one of the few appetisers that turn a Delhi wedding staple into a refreshing, slightly sweet treat.
A Punjabi street food favourite: fried fish with mint chutney and pickled mango.
A culinary journey through India is just as richly captured by the restaurant's interiors. Chef-patron Rohit Sharma is a restaurant consultant who previously spearheaded over 100 F&B establishments before realising his dream restaurant at Tapori. With both lamp-lit indoor and outdoor seating, diners are surrounded by vibrant, snap-worthy art from India such as the peacock mirror mosaic, a 10m oil mural depicting a southern jungle and the colourful, pop-art elephant statues in the garden. Their equally dazzling speakeasy bar, located in the same building, fully launches next month and features Indian spirits and well-crafted cocktails minus the sugar.
Mystery pudding from Uttar Pradesh.
Kanava masala: Andra-style squid with ginger, chutney and served with a shot of buttermilk.
Chef Dej Kewkacha.
Fancy shaved ice at Oyatsu no Jikan
There's always room and time for shaved ice desserts in a tropical country like Thailand. But it's highly unlikely that you'd have tried a savoury kakigori before. Best known for their Kyo Roll En dessert stores, the founders behind the sweet empire have brought this curious combination from Tokyo to Velaa Sindhorn Village, under the name Oyatsu no Jikan by Azuki to Kouri. Dessert foodies will know it is notoriously difficult to score a reservation at pastry chef Miho Horio's seven-seater dessert bar Azuki to Kouri and will be thrilled to hear that this is the first branch to open outside of Japan.
Matcha & Meringue Kakigori at Oyatsu no Jikan.
At the spacious, light-filled and grey-splashed branch in Bangkok, diners will find signature dishes as well as new, health-conscious flavours by chef Dej Kewkacha, the main brain behind Kyo Roll En. The humble shaved ice takes a higher form here, where every bite and area offers a different taste and texture, like eating French food. Out of the five kakigoris to choose from, don't miss trying at least one savoury option. Their own shaved-ice machine imported from Japan creates flaky sheets of ice unlike any others served in Bangkok. Using ice that is not flavoured, the Potato Kakigori is topped with a light Camembert cheese cream and crunchy potato chips. Dig in and you'll find multiple layers and textures inside, as the chickpea paste made with carrot and onions round up some sweeter nuances to the treat. Chef Dej's Avocado Salad Kakigori keeps it health-conscious by mixing avocado, yoghurt and cream cheese together for a playful "salad". If there's still room, their French toast is also a must-try. Rich yet fluffy, their toast has been marinated in egg for 18 hours and comes served with a pinch of salt and red bean cream. As mind-boggling as all this sounds, the main thrill at Oyatsu is to taste for yourself how everything comes together harmoniously.
Seasonal Passion Fruit-Mango Chiboust Kakigori at Oyatsu no Jikan.
French toast at Oyatsu no Jikan.
