The Red King
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The Red King

School of Jewelry Arts stages a ruby exhibition in Singapore

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE

Rubies literally bloom in a secret garden as L'École Asia Pacific, School of Jewelry Arts organises its new exhibition at Les Jardins Secrets by Van Cleef & Arpels at Raffles Arcade in Singapore.

Opening a secret door leads into this immersive exhibition area, which is an integral section of the French brand's new boutique.

A part of L'École Asia Pacific's "Discover The Gemstones" series, the "Ruby" exhibition traces the journey of this majestic member of the corundum family from the depths of the Earth to the lapidaries and to the creation of exquisite jewellery.

Based on aluminium oxide, rubies and sapphires are actually siblings whose colours differ due to the presence of chemical elements.

Chromium renders the red variety. The amount along with other trace elements determine the nuanced hues that range from pink to the much sought-after deep red.

The fiery gem is named after the Latin word ruber meaning red, while in India, it was crowned Ratnaraj -- the king of precious stones.

According to Burmese myth, rubies carry the fire and blood of the Earth within them. Gemologists regard the corundum as a testament to the wonders of Mother Nature because its formation and inclusions within the stone reveal the history of the Earth.

Earrings with detachable pendants (1983).

Earrings with detachable pendants (1983).

Visitors to the "Ruby" exhibition can view the mesmerising inclusions through a microscope and snap a photo that can be saved directly onto their mobile phones via a QR code.

Award-winning photomicrographer and gemologist E. Billie Hughes captured a close-up of inclusions typical in Thai/Cambodian ruby and zoomed into the infinitely small inner world of a ruby from Mogok in Myanmar.

She follows in the footsteps of her father Richard W Hughes, a world-renowned expert on ruby and sapphire, and mother Wimon Manorotkul, a lab gemologist, instructor and photographer.

In 2013, the family founded the Bangkok-based Lotus Gemology, whose rough mineral specimens along with those from Pala International and the L'École collection are on display at the exhibition.

The rough stones are sourced from various countries such as Myanmar, Afghanistan and Greenland. Cutting, faceting and polishing then enhance the beauty and value of the rubies for jewellery-making.

Platinum necklace with rubies and diamonds (1936).

Platinum necklace with rubies and diamonds (1936).

L'École Asia Pacific has curated high jewellery from the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection as well as loans from private collectors to illustrate the brilliance of rubies, large or small, as well as the creativity and craftsmanship in producing each piece.

The rose gold Berunda Bracelet is one of 60 unique pieces from the Treasure of Rubies Collection launched in Bangkok in 2019. A Mozambican ruby of 3.23 carats and a DIF diamond of 3.99 carats -- both cushion cut -- respond to one another in the inverted symmetrical design that evokes the two-headed bird of Indian mythology.

Composed of articulated quadrangular links of platinum and baguette-cut diamonds, a necklace from 1936 is ablaze with rows of oval rubies -- two at the back and three at the front interspersed with baguette-cut diamonds.

Rubies further meet diamonds on emblematic jewellery clips that include a detachable double fan and a design that can be transformed into a pendant, from 1937 and 1974 respectively.

Created in the mid 1950s, a couture clip boasts three central cabochon star rubies while six smaller ones twinkle on the diamond-set fringes.

Detachable double fan clip (1937).

Detachable double fan clip (1937).

The Cadeau Impérial Necklace with white natural pearls is graced by an oval-cut diamond framed by rubies that showcase the signature Mystery Set.

Patented in 1933, this technique involves inserting meticulously-cut gemstones into gold rails. Once in place, the rubies completely cover the set surface, resulting in the disappearance of the metal while imparting a velvety sheen.

The transformable jewellery and ingenious gemsetting embody Van Cleef & Arpels' innovative DNA.

The jewellery house was founded in 1906 by Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels' brothers at 22 Place Vendôme in Paris. Married in 1895, the couple shared a passion for precious stones as Alfred was the son of a lapidary craftsman and Estelle was the daughter of a gem dealer.

For over a century, the expertise in selecting exceptional stones is one of its core competencies for crafting the finest jewellery and timepieces.

In 2012, the maison expressed its commitment to education by supporting the establishment of L'École, School of Jewelry Arts. Today the school has branched out to five locations -- two in Paris and the other three in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Dubai.

Berunda bracelet inspired by mythical two-headed bird.

Berunda bracelet inspired by mythical two-headed bird.

Hong Kong's Silicon Valley of Culture, K11 Musea has been home to the second campus, L'École Asia Pacific, since 2019.

In parallel to "Ruby", which runs until Oct 20 in Singapore, the "Journey With Minerals" is an exhibition organised in partnership with Mineralogy Museum of Mines Paris – PSL at the L'École Asia Pacific.

These exhibitions along with courses, conferences and publications are means to achieve L'École's mission of introducing and sharing jewellery culture to the public.

The courses include a four-hour session conducted by gemologists, who elaborate on how the bewitching ruby rules as the king of precious stones.

Transformable yellow gold clip and pendant (1974).

Transformable yellow gold clip and pendant (1974).

Cadeau Impérial necklace with Mystery Set rubies.

Cadeau Impérial necklace with Mystery Set rubies.

Lotus Gemology's rough mineral specimen sourced from Greenland.

Lotus Gemology's rough mineral specimen sourced from Greenland.

Cadeau Impérial necklace with Mystery Set rubies.

Cadeau Impérial necklace with Mystery Set rubies.

Transformable yellow gold clip and pendant (1974).

Transformable yellow gold clip and pendant (1974).

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