Koh Mak adventures

After a two-hour drive from Songkhla to the peaceful Koh Mak community, I found myself lounging on a waterfront deck savouring gentle winds and breathtaking views of the Songkhla Lake around me.

Located in tambon Pak Phayun, Phatthalung, this island provides a relaxing weekend refuge where visitors can enjoy living away from the bustle of big cities. Even though the Koh Mak-Pak Phayun Bridge was built in 1993 to connect the island with the mainland and make transportation more convenient, locals remain dedicated to their fishing traditions.

Enclosed within a tangle of peat swamps and rice fields, Chom Daw Lan Yor offers homestay services and welcomes us upon arrival with a lunch served by tiffin carriers. All prepared by neighbours, fried fish can be paired with yellow curry, spicy mango salad with sweetened shrimps and Thai fish cake.

Glancing out at the hills and clear waters, visitors can imagine scenes from the Stone Age when humans first lived around the lake and learned to create their own hunting tools. But by the 6th Buddhist century, the island had developed into a bustling trading hub.

Focusing on sustainable living, Kimhan Suwanrungsri and his neighbours established the Tambon Koh Mak Tourism Community Group in 2016 to offer a wide range of leisure activities that allow visitors to experience the charm of southern-style fishing villages and natural splendours in Phatthalung.

"We worked with the Tourism Authority of Thailand, the Department of Marine and Coastal Resources, and the Community Development Department to develop a tourist venture that would connect Songkhla and Phatthalung. We aim to showcase the unique lifestyle of fishing communities by offering an assortment of experiences that allow visitors to explore both on land and water. This place is crime-free and nearly 200 CCTV cameras have been installed on our island to ensure safety," said Kimhan.

"With 13 stations providing workshops and recreational activities, visitors can design their own itineraries and come back to the island year-round to experience new things. Four days and three nights is enough time to explore the island."

Currently, there are about 2,300 households on the island, the majority of which are engaged in fishing and rubber tree cultivation. The island is 55% Buddhist and 45% Muslim and the mountainous lands are covered in coconut palm, stink bean, sapodilla, durian and betel.

In order to stop soil erosion, a 10,000 rai mangrove forest grows along the banks and peat swamps are a haven for fish, shrimp and crab as well as a source of herbal plants. In addition to Koh Mak, Songkhla Lake is home to almost 20 smaller islands, some of which are part of Koh Si and Koh Ha that have been classified as restricted areas for concession-based collecting bird nests.

In the afternoon, we set out on a pleasant four-hour cruise along the lake and made a first pit stop on Koh Kra, which was once a popular tourist destination for Chinese and Malaysian pilgrims two decades ago. It seems like a holy place, home to the Guan Yin Shrine and a statue of Luang Pu Thuad from Penang, who safeguard both local residents and passengers around the lake.

With its rugged limestone ceiling and wall reflecting in water, the so-called Tham Krachok (Mirror Cave) serves as a gateway and a popular scenic background for visitors who want to capture themselves in the grandeur of nature. Inside, the shrine is illuminated with colourful lighting displays to highlight the statues of thousand-hand Guan Yin and other Chinese deities.

Outside the shrine, worshippers can offer 11 kinds of fruit to an orange quartz stone in the shape of a five-claw dragon, and prayers for promotion, virtue, prosperity and success. Flanked by walls of sedimentary rock and native flora, visitors can also wander down a 350m trail and act like archaeologists searching for fossils and prehistoric shells that date back to the Mesozoic era. This site was supposed to be an underwater coral island.

Keep going deeper and visitors will see the huge footprints of Luang Pu Thuad on the stone walls, the Hin Nam To Ni shrine which houses a local god, and the bridge with 12 zodiac signs set against the backdrop of a gigantic stone that resembles a turtle.

Afterwards, we boarded a boat and sailed past Koh Thewada and Koh Muay where King Rama V spent the night on his 1889 voyage to Songkhla Lake before landing at Koh Ran Kai. Encircled by a forest, this limestone grotto gives visitors the opportunity to snap photos of clear waters and endless green mountain ranges.

Soon our boat drifted to the middle of the lake as local fishermen showed us how to catch shrimp and fish using traditional traps, nets and baited lines. Songkhla Lake has three different types of water ecosystem -- freshwater predominates from December to June; brackish water from April to July; and saltwater from August to November.

As a result, fishing conditions in this area vary depending on the season. For instance, during the brackish period, fishermen can catch just 2-3kg of giant freshwater prawns each day, but during the freshwater period, they can catch 5-10kg.

Situated on the border of Songkhla province, Koh Kham Hiang can be reached within 10 minutes. A short 50m walk brings tourists to a dense yan ngot curtain hanging over a cliff. Legend has it that a maritime trader stashed his treasure on this island and left a puzzle with hints for future generations.

We then arrived at the coast as the Sun was beginning to set. The sky turned a soft pink and orange that reflected on the waves and a flock of birds started to head home. This picturesque view also indicated that it was almost dinnertime and a table was arranged with local specialities like freshly grilled prawns and chilli dipping sauce served with vegetables.

"There will be a greater variety of birds visible between February and April due to higher water levels, which will also result in an abundance of food. The best sunset views are available from February to June, just before the island will undergo the monsoon in July," said Kimhan.

When the darkness rolled in, we reclined on a balcony to take in the starry sky and sounds of nature. Kimhan had originally used this place as a campground for his pals to hang out until he transformed it into Chom Daw Lan Yor in April.

This new option can accommodate up to 13 people while providing more privacy and convenience. It features three bedrooms and three bathrooms, with wood from ceiling to the floor creating a cosy feel.

The next day, we got up early for an 8km bike trip and breakfast at Yai Praek's house of delicious, traditional southern-style kanom krok (coconut-rice pancakes), which filled us up well. Made from rice flour, coconut milk and salt, six pairs are priced at 4 baht and served with brown sugar, bringing our memories of childhood.

The mild weather and fresh breeze made it an enjoyable ride and the network of smooth roads ensured that we never had to worry about getting stuck in traffic. The landscapes appear as paintings, with buffalo, cows and pigs grazing on an extensive verdant pasture that runs along the lake.

Weaving through villages, we reached Wat Chonthawadi, constructed in 1949 to enshrine a statue of master monk Phra Sil Mongkol (also known as Pho Than Thong). The red naga-like staircase led visitors to a gold bell-shaped stupa that rises 10m above the ground, making it a great vantage point to overlook the striking views of the lake.

To travel farther and faster, we shifted to a fleet of beautifully adorned motorbike sidecars and explored a lush tunnel full of towering rubber trees that provide shade for onlookers throughout the day. Another attraction to explore is the grassland and paperbark forest, which transforms into a vast savannah in the middle of the year and is submerged in November and December.

Our trip draws to a close when craftsman Pichai Chansawang shows us how to create our own keepsakes, such as keyrings and wood boards adorned with sand grains.

Travel Info

Chom Daw Lan Yor is in Pak Phayun district, Phatthalung. Room rates range from 1,290-1,590 baht, inclusive of breakfast. Bike rentals cost 100 baht and visitors can pay 300 baht for a guide. The island boat tours are priced from 2,500-4,000 baht. There's also a two-day and one-night package available at 1,890 baht for a group of 10 persons. Call 061-491-9362 or visit facebook.com/chomdawlanyor.

Pichai Chansawang's sculpture-inspired art workshop with all supplies costs 159 baht. Call 093-253-1628.