By the sea
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By the sea

A visit to the Muslim village of Ban Bang Phat, where seafood reigns abundant

SOCIAL & LIFESTYLE
By the sea
Left  A long-tailed boat rides in front of the muslim village of Ban Bang Phat. Peerawat Jariyasombat

It is a few minutes to noon. Fishermen have just finished their job of sorting out their catches when groups of diners walk across the bridge to the village. Muslim waitresses in the restaurants know that their next shift is about to start. The customers are going to pack the place very soon. From a quiet fishery village in the morning, Ban Bang Phat turns into a vibrant place for seafood at every lunch time.

Black spicy soup and squid, some of the seafood to enjoy at Krua Aree restaurant. Peerawat Jariyasombat

"It began shortly after the Tsunami in 2004. We lost our boats and fishing tools while our homes were damaged. It was a very hard time. So I thought tourism might be a solution to earn and survive among the crisis," says Sawasdi Warak, the former village headman who was in that position for 15 years.

"We opened our home to offer homestay services. We got some guests, but they requested a seafood restaurant. So we decided to invest in the restaurant business."

His restaurant, Krua Aree Bangmad, is located at the end of the village. It was the first seafood restaurant in the village. Sawasdi found there was huge demand after the disaster. Shortly after that, his 50-seat restaurant was not enough to cope with demand. So, more restaurants were opened. The village slowly transformed into a seafood destination.

For decades, fishermen of Bang Phat had to bring their catches to sell in Phangnga town. After the opening of seafood restaurants, their catches are mainly supplied to their own businesses. So the fishermen do not have to deliver the seafood to the market. Fish are kept alive in the net, waiting for the customers.

Moreover, the village began expanding its mangrove forest area, which serves as a marine-life nursery and wave barrier. Fishermen lent their hands in conserving crabs. Female crabs carrying eggs were kept until their babies hatch. The seagrass conservation project in the area also helps increase the number of dugongs in the bay.

"The conservation scheme is successful. It increases the amount of marine life around the village as well as in the nearby bays. We catch more and bigger fish, shrimp," he says, showing off big banana shrimp as well as other mouthwatering seafood dishes, such as deep-fried rock lobsters.

There are three restaurants to choose from. All are located on stilts, right on the water. Diners can choose between à la carte and a set menu. The set menu is priced at 250 baht per person. For a group of five, the set is comprised of seven dishes. For a group of four or fewer, the set includes five dishes. Fat crabs and deep-fried fish soaked with sweet spicy sauce are among the most popular dishes.

"We've sold swimming crab since they cost 40 baht a kilo. Now the crab is priced 300 baht a kilo," Sawasdi says, hitting the boiled crab in his hand with spoon a few times, easily cracking it for his customers. His skill at cracking the crab with a spoon always entertains diners. Interesting stories from the fishing trips and marine life fill the restaurant with the funny atmosphere of fishermen's tales.

With his initiative, jobs are created in the village. Fishermen keep dried fish as well as shrimp paste in packages, offering them to diners who visit Bang Phat. Souvenir outlets and homestay services mushroom. Local people can work at home and spend more time with their families.

Black spicy soup and squid, some of the seafood to enjoy at Krua Aree restaurant. Peerawat Jariyasombat

Village life. Peerawat Jariyasombat

Spined murex can be a tasty dish as well. Peerawat Jariyasombat

Bang Phat has gradually become a community-based attraction. Indeed, it's busy all day round, since dawn when the fishermen return from their fishing. From noon to evening, people pack the place to dine among refreshing sea breeze. At dusk, the pier will be busy again when fishermen get ready to go out.


Ban Bang Phat is around 20km from Muang Phangnga. For more information about restaurant and homestay service, call Krua Aree at 086-274-4557, 087-282-6659.

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