Forty years ago, a five-year-old me was in a jeep that zigzagged past mountains, slopes and lush valleys to Angkhang Mountain, about 1,400m above sea level, in Chiang Mai's Fang district. At that time, many parts of the mountain were full of opium farms. Thousands of red, pink and white poppies were in full bloom and attracted tourists who enjoyed taking photographs and bought dried opium poppies as souvenirs.
Last week, I returned to Angkhang and was astonished to see the vast change in the area as a result of a Royal Project. The opium plantations and infertile land, covering almost 2,000 rai, have become organic vegetable and strawberry farms, temperate fruit orchards and tea plantations.
Lives at Angkhang changed forever after the late King Bhumibol Aduyadej and Her Majesty Queen Sirikit visited villagers at Phak Phai Village in Fang and passed Angkhang Mountain in a helicopter.
The king heard that a majority of hill tribes in the area were poor even though they were growing opium. He also learned that they earned the same amount of money selling opium as they did selling plums. Hoping to stop the slash-and-burn farming method and help them settle on permanent land and grow useful crops, he bought land and set up a temperate plant research and cultivation station in 1969.
The station focuses on research for tropical and temperate fruits, and various field crops and experiments on growing temperate fruits, vegetables and flowers as examples for the hill tribes to earn a living from planting and selling such plants. The late king named the station "Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang".
HSH Prince Bhisatej Rajani, chairman of the Royal Project Foundation, recalled: "During royal visits to the North, His Majesty King Bhumibol paid much attention to the livelihoods of the hill tribes. He said the hill tribes grew opium and remained poor. Growers were poor while buyers got rich. King Bhumibol said opium was illegal, but there were not enough jails to imprison opium growers if they were arrested. So, supporting them to grow temperate plants was an option.
"Wherever he went, he was interested in Thai people's lives. One day, he realised Thai plums could be improved. Thus, he thought about a project to find temperate plants for people to grow on mountains and to help them on packaging, transport and marketing to improve people's standard of living."
According to him, the project has been successful. Each year, the Palaung hill tribe earn 400,000-500,000 baht per rai, per family, while the Black Lahu earn 350,000 baht per rai, per family from growing and selling strawberries. (Incomes vary according to productivity and product quality. The Palaung perform better because they are more experienced.)
Somchai Khiewdaeng, director of the Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang, said the Black Lahu, Palaung, Chinese and Shan people living on Angkhang Mountain grow mostly strawberries, tea, flowers and vegetables. Currently, 160 Palaung families have vegetable farms.
The project is also a role model for co-operation establishment, conservation awareness programmes for community development, environmental conservation, conservation of traditional garment, proper trash handling and agro-tourism in villages.
For years, the Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang and its vicinity have been among Chiang Mai's popular tourist attractions.
On a one-day trip, tourists depart downtown Chiang Mai in the early hours of the morning and visit vegetable and chrysanthemum plantations at Huay Luek Royal Project in Chiang Dao district. After arriving at Angkhang, they visit the station's Garden 80, Scented Garden, English Rose Garden, Vegetables Greenhouse, Plum Garden, Bonsai Garden, I Love You Garden, Temperate Flower Greenhouse, Rose Greenhouse and enjoy shopping at the shops or at a local market in Ban Khum Village, a small community housing Shan, people from Myanmar and the Yunnanese.
If tourists stay overnight, they can rent bicycles or ride mules around the station before dining at Angkhang Clubhouse. The following day, they can visit the 2000 Tea Plantation, strawberry, flower and organic vegetable farms at Nor Lae Village and a view point at Nor Lae military base, close to the Thai-Myanmar border. They can also visit Ban Khum Village, as well as Ban Luang Village where the Yunnanese, who migrated from China, grow plums, Chinese pears and other crops.
Another popular activity is the annual Gourmet Tour Angkhang, where volunteers pay tribute to King Bhumibol and showcase the premium quality of Royal Project produce in world-class cuisine. This year, the tour was held twice in January and is scheduled to take place three times each in February and March.
The Royal Project Foundation has joined hands with Dusit International to bring out the best for about 120 participants on each tour. On Jan 27-29, Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel's executive chef Philippe Keller took the helm at the station's kitchens, along with the hotel's two sous chefs and 10 staff, to cook a four-course French dinner at the temperate flowers greenhouse, a Parisienne breakfast at the 2000 Tea Plantation and a BBQ dinner at Bonsai Garden.
"I try to use as many Royal Project products as possible. It is important to support and introduce the products to the public. When compared to imported ingredients, Royal Project fruits and vegetables are a bit smaller in size, but the taste is very good and similar [to imported ones]. What I use are figs, strawberries, thymes, fresh herbs, lavender and rosemary. They are very fresh and organic. And the results are nice," Chef Keller noted.
Apart from the stunning scenery at Angkhang and excellent quality and taste of temperate fruits, vegetables, herbal tea and fruit wine, visitors to Angkhang will be able to learn about King Bhumibol's legacy -- the development of water resources and the promotion of growing temperate fruits, vegetables, cut-flowers, tea and strawberries, and the instilling of social awareness in conserving the natural environment and reforestation.
Khob Dong Village is 3km away from Angkhang Station. The Black Lahu hill tribe inhabited the area long before the Royal Project was established, more than 40 years ago. Most of the locals grow a special strain of strawberry called 'Strawberry 80', given by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, and a few cultivate Portobello mushrooms. Visiting the village is a way to follow in the late king's footsteps as he walked up and down several hills to survey the area, looking for ways to help villagers grow temperate plants. The Black Lahus revered the late king so much that one of them offered to carry him on his shoulders. Old photos of royal visits are on view at a local museum in the village. Pichaya Svasti
Situated 5km from Angkhang Station is Nor Lae Village, home to the Palaung tribe. Handmade Palaung products are sold in front of the villagers' houses, where tourists can learn about organic vegetable farming and try growing and harvesting vegetables and making organic fertiliser. Nearby is Nor Lae Army base where one can view the Thai-Myanmar border and military barracks and bunkers. On the way to the village is a view point that offers magnificent views of the sunrise and sunset. Pichaya Svasti
Near Angkhang Clubhouse are outdoor gardens decorated with seasonal flowers, such as Garden 80, Rhododendron and Azalea Garden, Scented Garden, Royal Garden and English Rose Garden. The Vegetables Greenhouse has several kinds of temperate vegetables grown in Royal Project sites, such as lettuce, cabbage, eggplant, beans and carrots. New to the greenhouse are Swiss chard, rhubarb, artichokes and herbs like rosemary and lavender. Pichaya Svasti
Bonsai Garden boasts many long-life bonsais, as well as cactuses and orchid flowers in hexagonal buildings. The nearby natural stone garden houses several kinds of wild plants. Nearby is the Tea-Tasting Area where tourists can also observe the Chinese tea-making ceremony. Pichaya Svasti
At Angkhang Station, tourists can take a tram or rent bicycles or ride mules, a primitive mode of transport. There are 10 nature trails around the station that are full of fast-growing trees, such as Paulonia and Acacia Confusa. The station, especially the areas behind the Angkhang Clubhouse and near the Royal Residence, is famous for bird-watching due to the arrival of migratory birds during the cool season. The highest point is a 30-minute walk from the station and is 1,928m above sea level. It boasts Rhododendrons that bloom once a year in December. Pichaya Svasti
The temperate flowers greenhouse showcases more than 50 kinds of flowering plants. Relax and sip tea or coffee at the greenhouse or enjoy shopping for Royal Project products at the gift shop. The Roses Greenhouse displays different types of cutting roses. Pichaya Svasti
Dusit Thani Bangkok hotel's executive chef Philippe Keller prepared a four-course French dinner, served at the station's temperate flowers greenhouse, using Royal Project produce, such as smoked trout, duck, organic vegetables, Portobello mushrooms, figs, local herbs and strawberries. Pichaya Svasti
