Open up to India

Travelling to India often conjures up mixed emotions in tourists.

People who have been to New Delhi, the capital, might return with no desire to ever visit other cities in the subcontinent.

Others might take the positive approach by not dwelling, or for that matter generalising, on the shortcomings of the country.

There is no middle path with visiting India, so I am glad that I decided to erase any misconceptions I held of the country and agreed to visit the largest city in the state of Gujarat, Ahmedabad, with an open mind.

Offering myself the opportunity to do this was probably the best decision I could have made. For it was by having an open mind that I was able to enjoy my travels to both Ahmedabad and later the bustling city of Mumbai, an hour's journey by air from the former.

Apart from being home to a plethora of majestic forts and palaces, breathtaking national parks and holy shrines, there is also the Sabarmati Ashram, situated directly beside the Sabarmati River, a quaint and peaceful ashram built by Mahatma Gandhi after he returned from South Africa.

To this date, Gandhiji's living quarters are preserved here and are now used as a museum where visitors can learn all about his life and his teachings. The infamous Dandi Salt March, which was a crucial point in India's independence struggle, originated in this ashram.

Situated in western India, Ahmedabad has, apart from a magnificent past, some of the warmest and most friendly locals. This I say from personal experience.

Apart from politely requesting a selfie from tourists, which is common practice in many Indian cities, they come across as genuine and sincere when approaching a stranger to their city. So much so that they would happily invite you into their home for a meal.

Each tourist attraction we visited saw locals of all walks of life offer us heartfelt smiles, and, of course, a request for a selfie, which seemed to mean a lot to them.

My first interaction with a local came during a visit to the Adalaj Stepwell, housed in the rural environs of Adalaj village, which like most tourist attractions in Ahmedabad attracts largely local tourists.

An elderly history teacher, accompanied by her husband and son's family, struck up a conversation with me.

After exchanging pleasantries and a group selfie, we set off to explore the historical attraction. As we leisurely walked down the staircase, she pointed out to me that in Gujarati language a stepwell is called vav, and that the one in Adalaj served as a resting place for many years for countless pilgrims and caravans that passed this area along their trade routes.

This five-storey stepwell was constructed in 1499 by Queen Rudabai, and served as not just a cultural and utilitarian space, but also a spiritual refuge for communities around this area in those days.

It was common practice to witness womenfolk draw water from the stepwell in the morning and offer prayers to the Hindu deities which are carved into the walls. While enjoying the cool shade of the vav, as temperatures rose outside, most of the interaction they enjoyed included the latest gossip and goings-on in their communities. In the evening, it was time for menfolk to use the area to relax.

Needless to say, the structure was built with attention to detail, as there is an opening in the ceiling above the landing which permits light and air to enter the octagonal well. It is said that direct sunlight does not touch the staircase or landings except for during a short period at noon.

Hence it is believed that the temperature inside the well is 6C cooler than outside, making it perfect for locals and visitors to take cover from the searing afternoon Sun.

As I bid farewell to the old woman and her family, the short time I had with them was etched in my memory forever, as she waved goodbye with an open invitation to visit her again. Travelling from one town to the other, we got to experience rural life at its best. Cows roaming the streets, sidewalks cluttered with fruit and vegetable carts, and elderly folks chilling out on their charpai, traditional handwoven bed, with tea in hand.

Our next stop was the humongous Rani Ki Vav, housed on the scenic banks of the Saraswati River, in the town of Patan.

History tells us Rani (Queen) Udayamati commissioned this stepwell in 1063 in the memory of her husband King Bhimdev I of the Solanki dynasty.

Surrounded by a sprawling garden, the awe-inspiring structure was later inundated by the nearby Saraswati river and silted over until the late 1980s, when it was excavated by the Archeological Survey of India, who discovered unearthed carvings in still-pristine condition.

As Rani Ki Vav is among the finest stepwells in India, it does not come as a surprise that the new 100 rupee bill bears its picture.

Belonging to the Maru-Gurjara architectural style, the edifice reflects mastery of this fine complex technique and attention to detail and proportions.

Designed as an inverted temple highlighting the sanctity of water, it is separated into seven levels of stairs with sculptural panels of grandiose proportion and artistic quality: over 500 principle sculptures and over a thousand minor ones, which combine religious, mythological and secular imagery, referencing their literary works. The fourth level is reported to be the deepest.

Another of Gujarat's jewels is the Sun Temple in Modhera town, one of the few shrines dedicated to the Sun God, housed on the banks of Pushpavati River.

Records date this attraction to 1026, when the temple was built by King Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty (said to be the descendants of the lineage of the Sun God).

Also worth a visit is Hutheesing Jain Temple, a remarkably elegant temple created out of white marble in 1848 AD.

The temple is spread over a courtyard, with a mandapa surmounted by a large ridged dome, supported by 12 ornate pillars.

Besides the enchanting architecture, the prayer attire of the devotees is equally eye-catching.

We capped our two-night trip to Ahmedabad with a visit to the Gandhi Ashram, which showcases an integral part of this freedom fighter's life in Ahmedabad (1915-1930).

Just the gallery consists of 50 hand-drawn panels that narrate the major events in Gandhi's life that transpired during his time in Ahmedabad.

The highlights include the establishment of Kochrab Ashram; the Mill Workers and Owners Dispute; the Champaran Movement; the establishment of the ­Gujarat Vidyapith; the Swadeshi Movement; the Dandi Salt March and more.

Exhibits are organised chronologically in a question-and-answer format to simplify each event, and serves to give visitors a more thorough comprehension of the roots of Gandhi's Satyagraha movement.

Watching the panoramic view of Ahmedabad from the plane gave me a sense of nostalgia, for I had to confess that my happy moments in this enchanting city definitely outweighed my unhappy ones.

As we headed to our next destination, Mumbai, a piece of advice a friend once shared came to mind: "A trip to India can become an enriching experience once you decide to go with an open mind and with no expectations."

Simple advice, but, when practised, it created happy memories of my visit to India.

Mumbai

Mega-city Mumbai, formerly called Bombay, and home to India's Bollywood, is a place of extreme contrasts.

In plain view we see skyscrapers and mansions belonging to the filthy rich housed alongside shanty dwellings of the extremely poor. Each needs the other to survive, as most of the impoverished work for the owners that reside in posh buildings that make for the backdrop for their simple homes.

What drives local Indians from across the country to seek their fortune in Mumbai is that it exudes power, wealth, glamour and fame. Now, who wouldn't be attracted to this when seeking to shape their dreams and aspirations? I believe none.

Mumbai has much to offer the tourist, be it in the form of history, culture or traditions.

To gauge just how people from impoverished to middle class backgrounds make a living in this city, visit Dhobi Ghat, which is over 125 years old, and the largest open-air laundromat in Mumbai.

The venue garnered a Guinness Book of World Records entry for Most People Hand-Washing Clothes At A Single Location, in 2011. This is also one location where the film Slumdog Millionaire was shot.

Another phenomenon only found in Mumbai are the dabbawalas, a system that delivers hot lunches from homes to people at work.

The lunchboxes are picked up by men dressed in a white outfit and traditional Gandhi cap in the late morning, delivered predominantly using bicycles and railway trains, and returned empty in the afternoon.

In terms of historical attractions, one not to be missed is Elephanta Cave, tucked away in a desolate island called Gharapuri (City of Caves), 10km east of the iconic Gateway of India.

Numismatic evidence, architectural style and inscriptions have traced the cave temples to King Krishnaraja from the Kalachuri dynasty around the mid-6th century, and the Buddhist Stupas to the Hinayana Buddhists who had settled in the island around the 2nd century BC, long before the advent of the Brahmans in Elephanta.

Another historical jewel worth exploring is the Kanheri Caves.

The caves date back to the 1st century BC and are believed to be among the oldest cave formations in the country. The Kanheri Caves are renowned for their natural Basalt formations, ancient Indian-style architecture, and 109 special entrances to the caves.

Congregation halls with large stupas also indicate that the caves were Buddhist shrines and a focal point during the Buddhist settlement in the 3rd century. The Kanheri Caves became a distinctive Buddhist institution for congregational worship, study and meditation.

A walking tour worth recommending is that of Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus), an outstanding example of Victorian Gothic Revival architecture in India, blended with themes deriving from Indian traditional architecture.

A sight to behold, the terminal, designed based on late medieval Italian models, took a decade to complete, with construction commencing in 1878.

Its remarkable stone dome, turrets, pointed arches and eccentric ground plan are close to traditional Indian palace architecture.

Travel info:

• THAI Smile Airways has inaugurated its latest direct flight, Bangkok to Ahmedabad, by offering four flights per week: Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.
• To celebrate the new route, THAI Smile is offering a starting price of 10,260 baht per person, round-trip (all-inclusive). Reservations can be made from today onwards.
• Tickets are available at thaismileair.com. Call 1181 or 02-118-8888, for Smile Service Center and Smile Travel Agents nationwide (terms and conditions apply).