Every bar and restaurant has a personality, whether it’s the surly leer of a dingy dive bar, the detached cool of a hi-so afterhours drinking club or the rambunctious charisma of a yadong cart in full swing, and it is in the virtues, and the flaws, of an establishment’s character that define its patrons and recipe for success.
The people at Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok have gone further than most and breathed life into this personality, with the creation of Ms.Jigger, the latest cocktail concept bar to hit Bangkok and, oh boy, what a concept it is.
Not only instilling facets of her personality into the bar, the team at Ms.Jigger have even created rich history for her; a biography depicting her travels across the world. Not only is she fun and friendly, she is sophisticated and also a woman with a past. And from the level of drinks on offer a boozy one, at that. The life and times of this international traveller and bon vivant are the creative source for everything at the downstairs bar, down to the décor, the team’s uniforms and cocktail list and menus.
Sitting down for lunch at Ms.Jigger, at Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok in the Sindhorn Village, the first thing I was presented with was the Feast of Ferragusto cocktail a salty sweet concoction of genever, basil and lemon pignoli topped with egg white foam and gratings of parmesan. The opaque jade drink sounds a bit, how shall we say, a bit groovy. However, in fact it is well-balanced and very palatable, with the sweet tones from the amaretto and pignoli artfully countered by the fresh basil zing, acidic lemon and salty parmesan shavings. The alcohol from the genever sits quietly brooding in the background, not saying much but lending depth and complexity to this very tasty drink.
Alongside this first cocktail, I was served the ‘Homemade ricotta Spianata Romana’ (THB 290), an incredible light but creamy house made ricotta cheese, ribbons of spicy salami with a spicy kick and fresh parsley. An exceptional cheese paired with an excellent meat. But, for me, the star here was the bread. Crisp, light and packed with flavour and joy, you could serve me a loaf of this marvellous stuff without any accompaniment and I would be happy. “A man cannot live by bread alone”, they say, but for this I’d give it a go.
The Piedmont inspired ricotta also makes an appearance in my second course, the ‘Ravioli Ripieni di Spinaci e Ricotta con Salsa al Pomodoro Picante, Pesto e Pinoli’ (THB 390), homemade ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, spicy tomato sauce and pesto. These simple, comforting flavours
inhabit soft, pasta pillow cases that will etch a smile a mile wide on your contented, satisfied face.
It was this point I made a decision;a decision that ruined me for the rest of the day. I said ‘yes’, when I was offered another cocktail. I may have got away with it if I had opted for something lighter, such as the Nuitee a Paris or even the Venice for One. But, no, I went for the alcohol forward Trans Siberian — comprising Russian Vodka, Japanese whisky and brined vermouth. This drink puts your taste buds into action. Drunk as is, it has a very subtle flavour (though you are very aware of its hedonistic potential). However, it is also served with a small plate of pickles and paté, which brings the briny flavours and personality of the drink to the surface.
A quick nibble on one of the suggested morsels, followed by a sip of the Trans Siberian, opens up your gustatory membrane to the hidden flavours of the drink. Take a bite of pickle and the brine of this inventive take on a dirty martini — informed by Ms.Jigger’s time crossing Russia on the iconic locomotive — and the saltiness of the brined vermouth comes through.
The main course was ‘Costolette di Agnello in Crosta di Mostarda, Spinaci Saltati e Patate al Forno’ (THB 720), lamb chop with mustard & herb crust, roasted potatoes, sautéed spinach and wild mushroom marsala sauce. And, it arrived at exactly the right moment to soak up some of the cocktails and return some equilibrium to the proceedings. Each forkful of this dish delivered the goods. Medium rare, the flesh of the lamb oozed with unctuous ovine juices, giving it the appearance and texture of a good steak, its quality only raised by the verdant green of the mustard and herb crust and the savoury tang of the marsala sauce.
Offset by the well-seasoned spinach and roast potatoes, this was hearty fare indeed. Nearing capacity, I could not turn down Ms.Jiggers’ already legendary pizza, the ‘Tartufata’ (THB 490). Composed of mascarpone cream, mozzarella, porcini mushrooms, black truffles and truffle oil, this is one earthy mama.
Pungent and musky, with a scent not dissimilar to the zing of the Linden tree, the hormonal funk of the truffles and porcini is embraced and tempered by mozzarella and mascarpone cream, making the Tartufa almost perversely moreish. I don’t even like truffles but I cannot stop eating this thing. Even a day or two later I am still having Tartufa fantasies.
With a full belly and a happy heart, ‘Ms.Jigger Tiramisu’ (THB 320) arrived to finish me off, the classic mix of sponge fingers, coffee, mascarpone, Baileys Irish Cream, hazelnut and cocoa, topped with chocolate shavings was a more than suitable way to complete afternoon in the company of the charismatic Ms.Jigger.
Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok
78 Soi Tonson, Lumpini
Pathumwan, Bangkok
Call: +66 (0) 2056 9999
www.kimptonmaalaibangkok.com
