New look, same great taste

Biscotti at Anantara Siam relaunches with beautiful new look, but the real reason to come is the food

One of Bangkok's most popular Italian restaurants, Biscotti at Anantara Siam, was relaunched last month after an extensive renovation.

Comparing to the previous trattoria-styled setting, the updated version of the interior looks younger, more vibrant and very cosmopolitan. Yet it continues to provide a sociable warmth that's been long cherished by customers.

The dining room, although has an unmistakable fine dining feel to it -- thanks to crisp white tablecloths and upholstered furniture, is lent a sun-drenched Tuscan accent through rusty-red and deep-burgundy coloured walls. A glass facade has been put in for an originally all-open show kitchen at the centre of the restaurant. While a private dining room equipped with spectacular wine cellar showcases award-winning selection.

To go with the new appearance is a refreshed culinary direction under the restaurant's Swiss-Italian chef de cuisine Kevin Montorfano.

The newly-appointed Montorfano arrived in Bangkok three months ago with a portfolio that impressively includes two Michelin-starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and three Michelin-starred Quique Dacosta restaurant in Dubai.

Charcoal-grilled Australian lamb chops with confit artichoke, panella Siciliane, celeriac puree, shallots flavoured lamb jus.

His 45-item renewed menu maintains all the quintessential Italian dishes that have made Biscotti a much-loved trattoria over the past two decades. However, contemporary fine dining touches are added to give diners a pleasant surprise that at the same time not too complicated and approachable.

All dinner guests are treated to a warm helping of complimentary focaccia with sun-dried tomatoes relish, garlic cream, cabernet olive dip and a choice of balsamic olive oil.

My meal started off in a very refreshing and fulfilling style with burrata Pugliese (620 baht). It's a lovely exhibition of heirloom cherry tomatoes and asparagus salad encircling a bosomy Apulia burrata cheese, which boasted a characteristically creamy mozzarella taste and stretchy string texture, dressed with dollop of thick pesto, slow-dripped tomato water and Modena balsamic reduction.

A plate of Hokkaido sea scallops (990 baht) carried on the gastronomic delight. Three sizable Japanese scallops, pan-seared to develop a slight brown exterior while retaining a supple soft and sweet centre, were complemented by silky green pea puree and crispy Parma prosciutto chips.

The focaccia mascarpone with truffle oil and olive.

As rich-flavour bacon and delicate-tasting seafood always go perfectly together, chef Montorfano raises the unification to another level by concocting a sauce for the shellfish out of roasted fish and bacon. A few tiny twigs of sea blithe also helped lend to the heavenly dish a briny finish.

From a dozen choices of pasta and risotto dishes, I settled for ravioli ossobuco and black truffle (1,100 baht). The dumpling pasta, made fresh in house, was stuffed generously with flavourful braised beef chunk, drenched with beef jus and capped with freshly shaved black truffle.

For main course, there are two newly-added options that the restaurant highly recommends. I found a photogenic plate of monkfish alla puttanesca with seafood cannelloni, baby fennel and capers-taggiasca olive sauce (1,390 baht) a bit on the salty side.

While an order of charcoal-grilled Australian lamb chops with celeriac puree, confit artichoke, panelle Siciliane (French fries-like chickpea fritters) and shallots flavoured lamb jus (1,790 baht) proved well worth having.

Amalfi lemon with white chocolate mousse, confit lemons and limoncello sorbet.

Fans of Biscotti's iconic and all-time popular dish focaccia mascarpone (690 baht) are guaranteed with the same culinary contentment from the pizza-like treat with a gooey filling of mascarpone and mozzarella layered between crispy paper-thin crusts drizzled with truffle oil.

Three desserts were ordered to our table. There's a signature amalfi lemon with ivory white chocolate mousse, confit Amalfi lemons and limoncello sorbet (420 baht); a traditional cremosa panna cotta with liqueur-macerated griottes cherries, cherry compote and meringue (400 baht); and Biscotti tiramisu with Amaretto almond liquor, Savoiardi biscuits, mascarpone, espresso and cacao powder (380 baht). All wrapped up the dinner superbly.

The restaurant also offers a six-course degustation dinner menu (2,990 baht per person for food only or 4,580 baht per person with wine pairing). A weekend lunch promotion with a choice of main course, all-you-can-eat antipasti and stuzzichini, live pasta station and dessert costs 1,295 baht to 1,495 baht per person. A premium free-flow beverage package of aperitives, sparkling wine, white wine and red wine is also available at 1,295 baht per person.

Monkfish alla puttanesca with seafood cannelloni and baby fennel.

Biscotti's new chef de cuisine Kevin Montorfano.

  • Biscotti
  • Anantara Siam Bangkok, Ratchadamri Road
  • Call 02-126-8866
  • Opens daily, noon to 2.30pm and 6-10.30pm
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