The words "Bang Khen" doesn't ring any bells with most tourists. For many Thais, Bang Khen is a suburban district of Bangkok where they can enjoy visiting a major agro fair once a year and pass on the way to Don Mueang airport. However, Bang Khen has interesting aspects for tourists to explore. It was once a battle field and boasts century-old communities, major temples, monuments and museums.
The Royal Air Force Museum displays a rare Breguet 14 B2 bomber, a Thai-made Paribatra attacker, a Gripen 39A fighter, and more.
Lert Tulathorn is among those trying to encourage other locals to search for the value of the city's lesser-known part, promote community-based tourism revitalise severely polluted canals and improve the area.
"In the past, the area was not crowded and the water in the Prem Prachakorn canal was so clear, clean and drinkable. Then there was no tap water, electricity or development here. The entire area was farmland and all the villagers were rice farmers or orchard owners," Lert recalled.
At Si Yaek Khlong Ban Khen, where the Prem Prachakorn and Bang Khen canals meet, stands Wat Thewasunthorn, or Wat Si Yaek. This temple was established during the Fifth Reign.
"The temple's ubosot [ordination hall] has historical importance. Behind it was a former battle field during a coup led by Prince Bovoradej. On October 13, 1933, they fought. The bullet missed the ubosot but hit a water tank," he added.
In 1933, royalist soldiers led by Prince Bovoradej tried in vain to topple the 1932 revolutionists and revive absolute monarchy. At Wat Thewasunthorn, those soldiers from Nakhon Ratchasima fought the government forces led by Luang Phibulsongkhram. The royalist soldiers made their first retreat here and then moved backward further and further.
In the end, Prince Bovoradej and Col Phraya Sri Sitthisongkhram failed with their attempts because the government forces were heavily armed and outnumbered their soldiers. Col Phraya Sri Sitthisongkhram fought until his death at Hin Lub Station, which is now called Khao Yai Thiang.
Phra Si Mahathat Wora Maha Wihan’s 38-metre-high Phra Chedi Sri Rattana Mahathat enshrines a smaller pagoda with Lord Buddha’s relics inside. While its interior walls are for keeping the 1932 revolutionists, including statesman Pridi Banomyong and several former prime ministers.
Right opposite the temple across the canal stands Talat Bang Khen Community, where the Prem Prachakorn and Bang Khen canals join. From over a century ago until four decades ago this area had been a floating market where many kinds of products ranging from farm produce to commodity goods were sold.
Here, you will also find old wooden houses, a khon mask factory and the Shin Zhun Tow Vegetarian Centre, which has an ancient incense pot with King Rama V's royal emblem, "Jor Por Ror". Heading north, you will find more shophouses selling old-style threads, handmade incense sticks, bamboo fans, traditional medicines, and more. Indeed, the most famous dish here is pla naem (powdered dried fish meat). Also, not far is an ancient gingerbread wooden health station.
The next stop is the century-old Laksi community near Laksi intersection. In the past, it was a farming community. Its villagers usually travelled by boat along the Prem Prachakorn canal to the Mahanak and Pak Khlong Talat areas to shop for various items, and to downtown hospitals, like Vachira, to see the doctor.
This community also reflects cultural assimilation. The early settlers were Chinese labourers who were hired to dig the Prem Prachakorn canal during the Fifth Reign, and Mon people from Pathum Thani, who moved here after the opening of the canal. The next group to settle here were northeastern people, who constructed Chaeng Watthana Road during the 1950s.
"During the time of my grandparents, this area was solely rice fields. There was no road and boats were the only mode of transport. This canal leads to where the Government House is today," said former village headman, Tun Ruanran.
The next must-see site is the Constitutional Protection Monument at Laksi Circle where Phahon Yothin, Chaeng Watthana and Ram Intra roads meet. It was established in 1936 in memory of 17 government military and police officers who died during the Prince Bovoradej-led coup. The monument was designed by Luang Narumitr Lekhakan. Its five pillars represent the nation, religion, monarch, armed forces and the constitution. On top is a replica of the constitution that rests on a tray supported by a pedestal. The west-facing wall bears an inscription with the names of the 17 officers, the south-facing wall portrays a farmer family, the north-facing wall depicts a wheel of dharma, and the south/eat-facing wall features King Rama VI's patriotic poetry.
The National Memorial showcases an exhibition on Thai officers’ heroic deeds, such as their participation in World War I and the Naval Battle of Koh Chang.
Nearby is Wat Phra Si Mahathat Wora Maha Wihan (Temple of Holy Relics). It was set up in 1941 by the Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsongkhram-led government to commemorate the establishment of democracy in Siam and first named Wat Prachathippatai (Temple of Democracy). It is home to Lord Buddha's relics from India and bodhi tree [bo tree], derived from the Tree of Enlightenment, as well as soil from where Lord Buddha was born, enlightened, first preached and left this world.
The next destination is the Royal Thai Air Force Museum, which is a popular site among Thai men, especially on National Children's Day. It was established in 1952 with the aim to collect and restore aircraft and equipment in use during the early period of Thai aviation up to the present day. It boasts five exhibition buildings and 95 aircraft.
Highlights include the only Observation and Attacker Type 1; Vought V-93S Corsair (1934-1950) remaining in the world; the world's last Fighter Type 10 Curtiss Hawk III (1935-1949); one of the only two Tachikawa Ki-36 Ida (1942-1950) aircraft remaining in the world; and the Thai-made Bomber Type 2 Paribatra (1927-1940).
Museum director Group Capt Paitoon Lailert invites all to see the museum's latest display, a Gripen 39A fighter, donated by the Swedish Air Force. Currently, the museum is seeking funds to mend the flooded buildings, plus 75 aircraft and other objects affected by the flood, as the 2.9-million-baht repair budget received is not enough.
Not far from the museum is the National Memorial, established in 1982 in memory of the ancient Thai monarchs and heroes who sacrificed their lives to save the country. Its ceremonial zone is reserved for important figures where visitors can lay wreaths and pay respect to the heroes, while its ceremonial building houses the Eternal Flame, as well as soil from 10 major battle fields. Its military history museum boasts inscriptions with the names of the 6,121 national heroes. The first floor displays major scenes of Thai forces' role in World War I, the Indochina Conflict, the Naval Battle of Koh Chang, World War II, Korean War and Vietnam War. The second floor has an exhibition on HM the King's military tasks, military uniforms and belongings. The third floor boasts an interactive exhibition on the Kingdom's 14 major heroic incidents, while the fourth floor showcases military and police uniforms of different periods. The art museum displays a 90m-long mural painting that depicts Thai history and Thai kings' bravery from the Sukhothai period up to the present day.
The Royal Thai Air Force Museum is open daily except public holidays from 8am- 4pm. Admission is free. Call 02-534-1853 during office hours for special group tours or visit www.rtaf.mi.th/museum/English.html.
The National Memorial is open daily from 9am-3pm. Admission is free. Call 02-532-1021.
There are at least two century-old communities— Talat Bang Khen and Laksi—along today’s polluted Prem Prachakorn canal.
A century-old gingerbread wooden health station near Talat Bang Khen community.
Laksi community’s symbolic sites include the shrines of Chao Phor Thong Theng and Chao Mae Sai Thong (banyan tree). To worship Chao Phor Thong Theng, the locals annually hold celebrations on Makha Bucha Day and the following day with lakhon chatri and likay shows (traditional Thai dance-drama performances).
